amarce

Hi MrNice, Have you solved your problem by replacing the probe? I have the same problem and nobody can say me where is the problem located Thanks and regards!

I'm saving money at the moment.... Maybe i'll go for a megasquirt, which costs me 1500€ all installed and mapped and tested in rolling roads. The other thing I'm thinking about are the forged internals. I checked all the vag engines, but i can't find any internals that could fit. How much cost you the forged pistons and rods? and are they low compression ones ore are standard ones? Thanks!!!

Isn't exactly that, the only thing that I am saying is that due to the compression inside de manifold, the wasted spark, etc... and the hot air that goes inside, it can rise up to 120ºC because it gets hotter and hotter with your charger getting hotter too. If you have an intercooler it can be a bit less, because the air could be a bit colder and it can cold a bit the intake manifold, but i think that it should be approx the same.

Hi, I've made a "missing link" is only a check valve that protects the map from boost. When you are at WOT, the MAP sensor reads atmosferic pressure so it uses the O2 sensors to calculate how is all going because your MAP sensor can't do anything else since the top of the reading is reached. I had the check valve installed and fine tuned it without the charger installed and for now is running like stock I've also installed an RRFPR and a Wideband O2 gauge and try to tune the engine at dyno and see if I can get a consistent AFR.

Hahaha, no problem m8

The cooler, obviously, will go behind the charger and the manifold, not connected to the filter The pipes will be rerouted to fit

I'll take it to a dyno when it will be running, but think that when you are at WOT (open loop) the MAP sensor does nothing, because is atmosferic pressure and there is nothing to be calculated. You can push your pedal all way in from 1000RPM and it will run perfect, the MAP sensor is doing nothing because is WOT, it should work for sure The intercooler will be a barrel one (http://www.pwr-performance.com/intercooler.htm) fitted where is the air filter actually.

Hi, I know how a charger works, I've installed it myself I mean that if the air is leaving @ 70ºC, you should add another 100º coming from the exhaust that are not shielded 100% this is a total of 170ºC (Aprox.) the intercooler reduces the heat about 20 - 40º, this makes a total of 130ºC; but if you mount it on the top of the intake, the air leaves @ 70ºC, and you should add another 40 - 50º from the intake manifold, this makes a total of 130ºC, this could be aprox. the same. I droped mine in the back because it was easier for me to use all the standard parts of the car and the belt routing was no problem, because it has been done by industrial engineers who are engineering machines that are using really large belts (7 - 10 M) aproximately and huge power for them (100 HP), they said that it could be a bit weak with 4 rib, but all the another pulleys had 6 rib to do the exchange if it doesn't work (We should make the alternator pulley again, because that only has 4 rib, not 6). The 4 psi are by the moment, when i get the decompression plate, i hope it will go to 0.5 - 0.7 BAR (No more than that due to the std internals).

Hi Andy, I'm trying not to break anything I've read a lot of articles regarding that a charger can be run at inverse with no problems, but by the moment it runs as expected Have you installed a decompression plate? Thanks!!

Hi, First of all, I said that is cheaper, not better obviously, if I had a big pocket, ther would be forged internals, the crankshaft from a 1.4 16v to get the CR down, forged valvles and so, but this is a cheaper project to see what can be acomplished with low bucks. The problems will be solved as they where coming. The belt was a problem that we thought also, but the newer pulley for the alternator was 4 rib because a 6 rib one was too close from the chasis. Regarding the long of the belt, there will be no problem, the only problem are the ribs, not the long because you allways can get harder springs to get the tension, or put more pulleys to get more power from it. We have done a little tryout and it goes perfectly without slip at all, but let's see when it will be all finished. The "coldisde" setup, this is how is named an intercooler that goes onto the intake manifold and not the exhaust one, is just nomenclature. The intercooler will come in the Stage II, when i am sure that all is working as expected, but remember that every ºC or ºF that you freeze, is only 1ºC or 1ºF the engine cooler, is not exponential.... with an intercooler you can get rid of 20 to 40º only (with a air/water maybe you can get 80º off)... i think that only changing the intercooler to the intake side, could be the same effect than having an intercooler onto the exhaust side, because the shield won't take the 600ºC from the exhaust off. We should try it to see what happens at last. The limp mode, has been "hacked" with a custom made "missing link", this will be no prob at all. The charger is taking and blowing the air as all is connected, we have tried it and goes this way, we thought that it will be running "inverse" (wich has no problems at all, only the pipes should be connected at inverse) but it runs as it should. We have talked to Mike at ferriday and when all will be ok (by the moment, it will not be blowing more than 2 o 4 PSI for safety reasons) we will get a decompression plate to get 8:1 CR. The BOV is connected using a pipe that we got over there, we will take another one if it's needed (you can know if you need another one because when you go one gear down it speeds up ) The brake reservoir is another thing this is due to really, really wearing down the braking pads, the new pads are being shipped I'll upload a video when it will be spinning Thanks for your comments, allways is good to know what could be bad with a setup

Hi all, One year ago, I was posting here (i'm from club lupo Spain) regarding an eaton M45 installation with standard Radiator, standard A/C pipes and standard ECU. Well, it's almost finished, i need some parts (self blocking rings and so) but, here you can see the setup: And the pulley and belt: I am posting it because i think that this is a cheaper way to install an eaton into our loops, and it's coldside, no hot from the exhaust is coming in I would like to know your impressions!! Thanks!!

I've used a check valve from the vacuum reservoir tank of an arosa between the MAP sensor anth the manifold you should also drill a hole between the sensor and the check valve to let the vacuum get out. if you are interested i can post some pics and any schemma

This MAP sensor does not work for me I'm waiting for a friend to check if both sensors are using the same pin for the same things. Anyone here knows what function has every pin in the GTI's stock MAP sensor? Thanks and regards!

I agree with you, the best would be a full ECU with a good setup for the project, but by the moment I'll try to make it run the easiest way and later when all will be running OK, I'll install a MS or anything "better" (Where better is more expensive ). Thanks and Regards!

Yes, this is the idea!!