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sgtazza

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    http://www.volkswelling.co.uk
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    kent

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  • Currently Driving
    Lupo 1.4 Sport w/BMC cda, cold air feed, blaupunkt, Wolfrace 15's, OMP Strut, Jom Coilies

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  1. This post is funny! My man name for the car WAS 'the red devil' (Cos its red and its a Devil (<- replace devil with swear word of choice) However some bright spark in Gravesend decided to permenantly borrow my rear bumper, so now I have a pea green replacment! thus my mates now call the car SHREK!
  2. Thanks for the response Jon, The tyres are at correct pressure, I have 15' Wolfrace wheels w/Toyo 45/195 T1-R's. Wheels are tight. lol. Suspension/bushes etc are standard but in good condition. I failed to mention above that the free play is in existance even when at a stand still (with the ignition on/off) so im wondering if its the steering rack itself that has the movement in it? perhaps. The knuckle joint that is just about visible in the footwell is in direct contact with the steering wheel so I know the wheel etc isnt loose. I plan on upgrading to JOM coilies but dont really want to do that untill I get the steering sorted. (
  3. Not sure if anyone can help me, but.... My steering seems to be a bit sloppy. I have enough freeplay in the steering wheel that when im going along in a straight line the car is able to weave slightly as its going over little bumps and lumps and the bloody steering wheel is sitting straight and not moving! As one can imaging this does sometimes induce a little sphincter flutter when one is getting a wriggle on! Any ideas what it could be? My girfriends new beetle doesnt have any free play and the steering is nice and firm and reasonably responsive, but mine is lacking. Other than vans I have no other real comparison to go on.
  4. Hey mate Just surfing through as I havnt been on here for a while and I saw this post. I have the EXACT same issue with my drivers side window. Last year I thought bugger it I'll take the glass out and check the mechanism as the switch/relay seemed to be working ok. Was a really easy job.. glass out.. had a poke about... didnt see anything out of place.. put it all back together and as if by magic the window started working again. about 4months later it just stopped again.. and I havnt been arsed sinse to take the glass out again. I am proper confused as to what is causing the problem as I know it all works and the mechanism in the door seemed ok. Have you had any results yet?
  5. Brown stuff hit the proverbial last night.. Just on my way out to go to Prept, got 3 mins down the road and the car cut out. Re started. Cut out again. restarted.. stayed running but this time it was as lumpy as peter griffins belly and smoke was constanly visible through the rear view. Im pretty sure the worse has now happened. Poo. ( I have a mechanic on standy by so fingers crossed it wont cost me the earth to fix it... well see tho. I'll update this thread when I have more info.. ( - do you know what was worse about all this.. I had to go to Prept in my missus's new beetle.. oh the shame. ha ha
  6. richie-guy - I have just recently sorted out the EXACT same prob on my drivers side window. its a real pain in the butt to do with the window fully up (which is where mine got stuck!) but let me know if your still having issues with it and I'll run you through step by step. I still dont know what the chuff was wrong with mine but can only assume it simply got stuck in the fully closed position, I literally had to remove the glass to sort the prob. its not as daunting as it sounds though.
  7. nfbr - even the neck of the bottle without the lid fouls the mount. I think the solution here is to mill out a hole in the mount to clear the bottle. If that dont work then strut braces just arent meant to be.
  8. im interested so long as it has a lambda sensor port. I had an ashley mani that lacked said port. So i sold it.
  9. IceGeezer - No chance I want the glory on this one! mwoh ha ha nfbr - umm... ok. bit extreme. but do-able! wonder if i could get a LHD fluid pot... hmmm...
  10. It wouldnt make any odds anyway, the pot would be in the same place, just on the other side and the mounts are also identical angles so same problem.
  11. Im confued! LoL do you guys drink neat alcohol because almost none of that post made sense! made me chuckle though! Only joking! The reason for the brace anyway is my want to track day the car, I do it on the various bikes i've owned so why not the car! and the stiffer the better especially as the car is made from German Jelly It is an OMP, fixed width strut, supposedly for the Loop 1.4 Sport and Polo 6N (actually says it on the product lable) I do agree that it SHOULD fit but evidently OMP must have used an R&D car without brakes! The struts mounts have the correct shape cut outs etc to fit the suspension turrets, just that the drivers side mount is at too shallow an angle (see crude attached drawing) The only solution I can fore see it to modify the mount to fit. (or give up and sell it to some poor soul on eBay! )
  12. Must say I only get the smoke under ''hard'' acceleration say 3750/4000rpm+ under load. It doesnt smoke at all other wise, not even cold. I seem to be free from piston slap, the tappets are a bit clacky cold, but the old girl makes good power and doesnt seem to have any flat spots even low down in the rpm range. It just confuses me ! I have noticed the oil blackens very quickly. Might there be a temperature issue? the guage says a constant 75/80degC Might explain the reason for its tendancy to cut out. Problem is im not 100% clued up on car engines so im pissing in the wind a bit here
  13. Advice taken, looks like I'll be getting my hands dirty! Thanks for that funkycooljem. much Appreciated.
  14. Ah poo! I hope not. Sounds it though. Funny, cos on the MOT it failed on emissions due to a faulty cat. Probably caused by oil contamination. Do you reckon it would be worth me popping the head off and taking a look at the pistons/valve train for any signs of excessive wear? What should i be specificly on the look out for? Appreciate your help.
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