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  1. Being 6'5", I've always hoped the seatbelt would save me before I get punched in the face ☺️. When I find the Arosa wheel wiring, I'll get some pictures of the 2 connectors side by side and hopefully they'll be the same crimp and can be swapped over. Otherwise I'll just splice them to make a hybrid.
  2. Unfortunately it's just a continuation of the day job. Looks better now I've screwed the airbag on. Very nice on the hands compared to the standard one. I need to swap the airbag connector so it's wired correctly, it's just got a resistor at the moment.
  3. I'm illustrating the process of fitting a later steering wheel, it's shape isn't the show stopper.
  4. yeha

    passenger side wiper arm

    The part no. for a RHD passenger arm with the normal J hook end is 5Z2 955 409 A. Quick search on ebay should find you one.
  5. Thought I'd update this thread with some photo's. I had to drill some holes, do a bit of filing and 3D print a bit. Just need to get an airbag to finish it. Much nicer feel.
  6. The reason for the larger hole in the Lupo one is alignment tool for the subframe. The height is a problem as the bush locates in the subframe into a cup at the bottom.
  7. yeha

    lupo tdi gearbox cables

    Strange question. Have you not tried the 5mm drill in the gearstick and locking the shift tower? I find the shift tower can be a bit awkward to get into the correct place but after that it's easy.
  8. yeha

    Rusty rear beam

  9. yeha

    Rusty rear beam

    Do you want some front seats? ;-)
  10. yeha

    Rusty rear beam

    I have the rusty set to match the axle... Do you need the brakes? I was thinking of keeping the rear hub and stub axle for a future project but I'm not that bothered really.
  11. yeha

    Rusty rear beam

    Just swapped mine. The old one is rusty but solid. Might be a good start for sand blasting and powdercoating. otherwise it's going in the scrap pile. Harrogate area.
  12. Done it now. 0-100%. Result.
  13. Finally got there. Having tried to remove the pedal box and failed due to the number of other things that get in the way, I removed the fusebox, loom connector panel and relay board, plus the lower dash panels. Then I used a 90.deg. drill adapter on a battery drill to chop out the side of the plastic box surrounding the electrics, by poking the drill through the fusebox hole. There is already a rectangular cutout that I continued to the top of the box. I could now put my hand on the quadrant and loose nut. When I'd got it rotated to the best position, I pushed up on the quadrant using a long screwdriver alongside the throttle pedal and tightened the nut. I also replaced the nut with a locking item. You need to get rid of the washer to have enough thread to bite into the locking part of the nut. An alternative is to replace the plain washer with a nordlock. Getting to this position took a month, putting it all back together took under 20 mins. Starting from scratch, it should be under a couple of hours. The connectors are all colour coded and the relays only go one way. What I have realised is that there is no endstop on my throttle pedal so it runs out of travel before it's hit the carpet. I think this is why the quadrant came loose. The part no. for the missing bit is 6N2 723 527.
  14. yeha

    Arosa drivers seat

    I think I have one you are welcome to. It's in Yorkshire.
  15. yeha

    VW Lupo wiper linkage

    The linkage arms are still available from VW. I got mine through TPS - £18.50 each.

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