oVerboost

£250 to have yours refurbed, if to a decent standard, isn't that bad of a price IMO. Will add value to the vehicle if you ever come to sell it, and make it much better looking (you'll be amazed how different immaculate wheels can make a car look).

Depends what is wrong with yours, but you can buy the outer skin kit on Ebay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Polo-Lupo-Seat-Ibiza-Arosa-Open-air-fabric-sunroof-top-cover-outer-skin-Kit/223048170756?hash=item33eeb4fd04:g:Vl0AAOSwopRYmbVp

Is it 5 or 6 speed? If it's the 6 speed, then you'll need the Lupo GTi specific shafts, if it's the 5 speed then I THINK the Polo GTi ones will work. I bought some off ebay recently from a guy breaking a 6 speed to keep in the garage in case I ever need them, then I don't have the stress of trying to source some. There are also some new ones listed on eBay, but check carefully as a lot of the part numbers listed with these aren't for the 6 speed versions.

You won't need a new engine if the gearbox is the only thing at fault. Ebay have numerous 1.0 gearboxes for sale usually, just search for one for a Lupo if you have no joy with an Arosa specific one, and worth buying a new clutch kit to install at the same time as they swap the gearbox.

BMC Carbon induction kit with cold air feed (not pictured). Removed from a Lupo GTi but will fit many vehicles as you can buy different silicone joiner hoses. Approx 6 months use in excellent condition. £125 collected from Plymouth, Devon.

Probably doubtful, advert was from 7 months ago without any update on the post.

Do you want it actual wide bodied or bolt on flared arches? I think the reason there isn't a kit is because the Lupo doesn't really lend itself to that look, I'm yet to see one that actually looks good as the shape of the arches on the non GTi models especially really don't work for a wide arch look.

Depends on the wheel design, but yeah measure from the most outward point of the wheel.

Chances are if you've got coilovers you probably have at least some negative camber anyway, as that usually happens when you lower a car so you should be fine with either 15/20 or 20/20.

I would say you want 20mm fronts and 25mm rears, but double check to be sure. Is your car lowered? Any front camber adjustments done? This is mine on 8x15 ET35 wheels, with 15mm fronts and 20mm rears and front wheels with a touch of negative camber and the rear arches trimmed to stop them catching with 185/45/15 tyres as a comparison...

Looks great! What information / parts are you wanting to get?

It was on the Hyundai around 8 years ago... It was on the Porsche until last month or so lol - the DVLA have certainly had their money out of me for registration transfers and retentions. It's also been on many other cars over recent years including an Elise, another Boxster S, a few Clio 182's and a Focus RS Mk1.

I did consider an Up GTi before I bought my Lupo, but similarly the long wait after ordering, and the lack of demonstrators was enough to make me revert to my original plan, and currently I'm not regretting it at all. The mrs has a Seat Mii FR (company car from work - Seat main dealer) which I've driven many times, and they're decent enough little cars, just need that extra bit of power that the GTi would have. What will be interesting is whether there is much room for tuning on the Up GTi models, and whether long term it has any issues with running more power without internal upgrades. I like the look of them still, dislike the seats as they are simply regular Up seats with a different pattern where as they should have fitted something more supportive, or even more exclusive like they did on the mk4 R32. They are however great on fuel and cheap to insure (and tax obviously) from all the reviews I've read and watched online.

Do you know what offset the wheels are? As this will help determine exactly what size spacers you will need. You can also use the willtheyfit website to enter wheel/tyre/offset information. Alternatively if you have the wheels fitted, you can measure the distance from the centre of the wheel to where you want the wheel to sit with a tape measure, and order up the spacers you need mm wise.

Perhaps I should have worded it different, there is a chance that not all the flush will come out, and can potentially cause issues if enough of it stays in the engine. I've worked in the motor trade my whole life, and seen a few issues. Whether or not it does any harm to the engine is up to chance, but there is a risk, it's more a problem with new engines when you try to claim warranty and they test the oil, only to find that there is flush in there and they won't then pay out. But on that basis, I've never risked it personally, and as long as the engine is healthy there is no need. If you need to use a flush because your oil is gunky and crappy - a flush is unlikely to save your engine from the potential problems awaiting it when the oil ways are blocked solid, and no flush is going to remove that if it's been there a while.