renandstimpey

Agreed, its very expensive for what it is, my beef really was the garage wanting to have me change it and pay them nearly £300 for a problem that isn't causing the airbag light to come on in the first place! They seemed to want the whole positive lead ripping out and replacing?

Yeah my plan was to speak to a local auto electrician about reconnecting the wires into the connector block....it hasn't caused the light to come on, I know that myself as it was on prior to me changing out the battery. It strikes me as a way to get some money out of someone, also I can't believe you have to buy the WHOLE positive lead from the loom to the battery (their words)....utter madness!

Just to ressurect this thread.....I've just had my car mot'd and also had it plugged into Vag-com to see why the airbag light is on. The garage has said that they have sourced the light back to a faulty positive battery lead, apparently this innocuous little extra wire is part of the 'pyrotechnic' system on the car and the fact that it has been damaged (accidentally pulled out by me!) has put the light on. Cost to replace this wire, over £250 from Vw, you can't get the part anywhere else! Sounds plausible really, part from the fact that the light was on before I went near the battery and changed it, damaging the wire at the same time. So are they talking shite or is there any basis in what they have said? Even though I know it hasn't caused the light to come on as it wasn't damaged until I meddled, and the airbag light was on before that!

Ahhhhhh! Very clever....ok so I will pop this on the 'to-do' list then as it needs fixing really, but it's not damaging anything as such by having one end out. Thanks for that :-)

Just changed my battery today, made a slight cock up when refitting the leads. The red positive lead has a funny yellow connector on the battery end, which has a black wire coming out. This goes to a black coloured block, which then has another black lead coming out of it which goes to another yellow block which I think is re-attached to the red positive wire. The black wire coming out of the yellow connector block that is attached to the battery end of the positive lead has fallen out (....well, ok I might have pulled the lead the wrong way and it's pulled the wire out, but whatever.....) What does this wire do? What happens if it is pulled out? It doesn't seem to have an effect on whether the car starts or not, it doesn't appear to have affected anything else....anyone offer any information, ie do I need to replace it completely or can i just tape the wires off and leave it? Cheers :-)

Thanks for the replies people, I think the safest option for me especially is to remove the cards and bits properly, I have a habit of damaging stuff when trying to do a quick 5 minute job! I must try and find that thread for the chap who was able to supply the VW parts at mega low prices too....I have the codes for the stalks and the switch so that's all good. Out of interest, would a problem with the stalks throw up and airbag light on the dash or is that likely to be something else? I've had one on there since they started acting funny, was wondering if it might be connected in some way....

Just a couple of things I'd like some opinions on..... 1) - The wipers and indicator stalks are acting a little strange. If you lift/drop the indicator stalk you can make the indicator flash properly without actually 'clicking' it on (if that makes sense....). It works going left, but if you go right you have to fully click the stalk on otherwise it clicks randomly and doesn't indicate. The wiper has the same problem, except the wiper (obviously) moves reaaaaaally sloooooooowly unless you click it on. Does this suggest the stalks or the little ring they click into is knackered, or perhaps just a relay? 2) - The drivers door lock/unlock on the inside locks the doors fine, but doesn't work to unlock all of a sudden....there's no click when you press the unlock button and the doors remain locked! New switch thingy needed perhaps? And if so, how does one remove the old one without marking the door card around it? Awaiting patiently any suggestions/advice....

That's really bad news! If mine is anything like that then it's getting scrapped, it's only done about 2 1/2k miles on a top end rebuild/new pistons/fresh belts and tensioners!

Haven't had it plugged in, haven't got it and don't know anyone who does! I have ordered one of those leads off ebay to see what that throws up? Don't know how useful they are for the 'home' mechanic...

Yep, vw part. Oil level is just below the high mark on the stick, no noises, no running problems, no overheating, no nothing other than a blinking blinking light!

I'm suffering a similar problem with my GTi this last week, swapped for a new sensor and it hasn't cured the problem, mine also starts to flash after the water has hit normal operating temperature, 5-10 mins of driving, and seems to be if I use over 3k revs....?

Ok, changed out the oil pressure sensor Wednesday, thought it had solved the problem....but the light flicked back on as I got to work this morning Booked in to the garage on Monday, wonder what this will cost....

Ok, i'll keep my fingers crossed it's a dodgy sensor and not an oil pump on the way out! Now to find someone who sells the sensors....

Nice one, thanks. Looking at it there doesn't appear to be any oil leak around it? Maybe it's just worn out after 61k....?

Can anyone point me in the direction of where this is positioned on the engine? I'm thinking it may be the little green coloured sensor on the front right side of the cylinder head, near where the coil pack is? I've got the dreaded flashing oil light on the dash, oil level is fine and there is no rough running/overheating issues at all....hopefully it's just the sensor, but I'm leaving it at home until I've changed it out