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isetta

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Everything posted by isetta

  1. i'll let you know in a year. I might add some photos so you can laugh at the visual appearance
  2. I bought my 2004 Lupo a year ago. before I bought it I was aware of the common clutch cable support problem above the pedal. My car seemed OK and I hoped that being a late built car VW would have become aware of the problem before then and made a stronger bracket. Yesterday found that car is not declutching properly and found the bracket is tearing away. Photo att'd. I have mig welder and I could easily weld this if I removed from the car, which looks a lot of work that I did not want to do. I don't think I could safely weld it in the car due to access, may just be possible if I took front seats out maybe so I could lay in there. Anyway, I took the easier way of fixing it, which some people will regard as a bodge. I am now using the bulkhead panel as the support for the cable outer. Where the cable goes through the bulkhead there is a large hole with a grommet , So I put a thick bit of metal over this with a hole in it of the right size to support the cable outer. To make sure the piece of metal does not slide down out of place and stress the cable inner I put some 'no more nails' type stuff between the metal plate and the bulkhead. Note that the stress of using the clutch is not pulling on the glue so should be ok. But this means there is more distance between the cable outer support and the pedal, so there is less cable inner at the gearbox end of the cable. So I had to leave part of the cable adjuster out (the bit with the spring) and cut away a few mm of the cable outer (the black plastic bit), otherwise the metal part that the adjuster nuts go on was hitting the cable outer too soon Hope it all lasts - seems like it will - at least I only have to open the bonnet to visually check it now and then to make sure all looks well. It's not like the hidden problem of the original weak bracket which is not easy to check. Hope this helps someone in the future who needs to fix it quickly as they need the car or hasn't got the money for the proper repair
  3. do the tail lights go on and off intermittently when the sidelights do?
  4. " I do think that many times I have used a TW, the settings are a bit on the low side." I agree, I had a Fiesta TDCI . After changing the oil about 8 times over a large number of miles I stripped the sump thread (steel bolt in steel sump). So on my newer Fiesta TDCI I now have I changed the oil for first time recently. I borrowed a torque wrench and torqued sump bolt correctly. I then put my normal socket set ratchet on there and it did up tighter without much effort, so I ended up doing it up tighter as it just felt too loose on the torque setting and I had visions of it dumping oil out when the bolt came loose. Mind you I might end up with another stripped thread after 8 oil changes.
  5. I have not closely looked at one of those particular seals, but in the past for oil seals in general which need to be pulled out I have heard people say drill a small hole in the seal near the outer edge, screw a wood screw in a bit and then pull with pliers. for stubborn ones do a second screw half round from the first
  6. OK, thanks, that's reassuring.
  7. 2004 Lupo 1litre base model. When turning ignition on (without starting engine) , an oil light comes on (amongst other lights) as expected. But after a couple of seconds it goes off. Normal behaviour on others cars is that the oil light stays on until engine started and oil pressure up to correct pressure. So, is there something strange about how the oil light works on a Lupo (1 litre)? if it goes off before there is any oil pressure then is it ever going to do the job of warning that there is low oil pressure? I know in theory that if I keep the oil level correct there should never be a pressure problem. Having had two cars in the past that suffered oil pressure suddenly going (Ford Granada 3 litre -the hexagonal oil pump drive shaft wore out so it became round and stopped turning the oil pump , Triumph TR7- the spring broke in the pressure relief valve) I would like some assurance of having such an important warning light functioning properly. Comments please
  8. have you put a circuit tester on it to see if it is connecting the two terminals when the switch is not pressed. Recently my sister's Ford KA had no brake lights working. I found it was because the contacts in the switch were burnt. I cleaned it up to get working again and it was fine. It did not look like it was going to last long term but the car only had two weeks MOT left and had so much rust in the sills etc that we were not going to MOT it again.
  9. trust that negative feedback will be left saying they are dishonourable. If they were honourable people they would source more stock to fulfill the order even if they lost more money on the deal. That's if they cared about their customers and reputation.
  10. does the clutch pedal have any kind of separate switch? when you press the clutch pedal down does it cause the brake pedal to move slightly due to play or twisting of the shaft (I assume brake and clutch pedal share a shaft but not sure as never examined a lupo pedal box). is the brake light switch adjustable? does it need adjusting so it needs the brake pedal to move further before it activates ? Re EPC light. In the new MOT manual which comes into force in a few days time i think it says the tester has to check light comes on with ignition and then goes off, so as to verify it has not been disconnected or hidden like yours. When I read the proposed draft of the new manual it said that but I have not checked it again to see if final version was altered. I think this is going to be a problem for a lot of cars as I think it has been common place for years for people to hide the illumination of the light. Good new for sellers of OBD port fault code readers
  11. "stick some pipe in your ear". I had not thought of that. It's the sort of thing I would have done 30 years ago when I was doing a lot more work on cars, but I am a bit out of practice and forgotten a lot of these methods. perhaps I'll have a go at the weekend
  12. took it all off again and still can't find what's wrong. But I did achieve something, I found the bulkhead grommet for the clutch cable was not fitted properly. Now I have fitted that properly, I do not hear a big chuff inside he car when I change gear. Out of ear shot, out of mind
  13. bearing in mind shipping cost they must have to pay, it does seem a bit too good to be true. also bearing in mind some of their feedback it looks like they may just say it is out of stock and refund buyers. I see on the purchase history someone bought 10 in one transaction. Did you buy any Mk2? let us know what happens
  14. I tried using some catfood as bait to get the badger out but no sign of him
  15. yes there is a rubber seal there. I did not realise the separate seal was there, I thought that was part of the plastic air box moulding. I have removed seal and checked it and it seems ok. I can't find anything else wrong. The brake servo pipe is good . As far as I can tell the seal where the servo pipe joiner goes into servo is good. With air box off I can't really tell due to sucking from throttle body intake. with air box on you can't get to anything or see anything. But the thing is whatever you do with the throttle you can't keep the sicking noise there, it is just for a second, more light a 1 second chuff of sucking. Never did this before I changed timing belt, it must be something to do with me removing the air box and refitting it. all vaccuum pipes checked for splits and ends on properly. Got my wife to reluctantly sit in car and keep jabbing throttle to make the sucking noise while I had me head under bonnet. All I can say is it sounds like it is somewhere under the airbox. Does not really affect driving of the car, but very annoying noise and I don't know if it will adversely affect the emissions at MOT in August
  16. Lupo 1litre petrol. 2004. Today I changed the timing belt on my lupo. To do this I had to lift up the air filter box to get to engine mount bolts and top part of timing belt cover. It's all back together now and running but when i touch the throttle pedal I get about one second of sucking noise as the revs rise. If I jab the throttle the sucking noise is accompanied by the engine faltering before the revs rise. It seems to drive ok but I do hear the suck when I put my foot back on the throttle when I change up gears, only for a second each time. I have since removed the air filter box twice and checked everything (the pipes I took off and put back on when working on car were one thick one on drivers side of air filter box, this has a horizontal attachment. And two narrow ones on passenger side of air filter box with vertical attachments.) The only thing I can think is wrong is where the air filter box goes onto the throttle body. It is impossible to see this go on, but I am sure it is fitted correctly. Is there supposed to be some kind of rubber seal here? is this a known problem area?
  17. if not a fuse it could simply be something like the cable plug on the back of it needs reseating (disconnecting/ reconnecting with a bit of a twiddle to ensure good contact - and check the connector terminals look clean and not corroded)
  18. have you jacked it up and spun the wheel round to see if it is bent (look at both sides of the wheel) or if there are bulges on the tyre (look at both sides of tyre) have you got alloy wheels? they are more easily damaged by potholes because a) the metal is weaker and B when you have alloys the wheels usually have lower profile tyres on which means the pothole hits the wheel more easily
  19. hadn't really thought of water going in, I can see how once in there it will not drain out. So just ordered on ebay 2 x stretch gaiters with the clips and grease and one cone for £7.99 including postage. seems ridiculously cheap. I only need one at present but I thought I may as well pay 7.99 for two instead of 5.49 for one . Watched a youtube video of one being installed (not on a lupo). Amazing how they can stretch that much. I will report back on how it went, but based on my lack of speed in getting around to doing things and the weather, it might be a few weeks. Whilst I was originally intending to do it the 'proper' way by taking joint off the shaft, these stretch gaiters seem to be cheaper compared to non-stretch ones.
  20. ok thanks. I will get round to it soon. luckily the split is just by the clip at the narrow end of the gaiter so it's not letting tons of road dirt right into the joint at present
  21. Hi "ear clips..... " i'm confused now. so do I have to spread the clip apart with pliers before tapping joint off the shaft or not (it is nearside outer joint)
  22. On my Lupo 1.0 base model there is a split outer CV gaiter. I could put one of those gaiters on that is split and then glued together once in place. many years ago that type did tend not to last too long, I don't know if they are better now. But I would rather do it properly with a one piece gaiter that does not need glueing. What I am not clear on is how the cv joint is held on the shaft. On cars I have done the gaiters on before there is a circlip holding the joint on the shaft and the ears of the circlip needed moving outwards with circlip pliers to let the shaft slide out of the circlip (the circlip remaining in the cv joint). I looked at a youtube video of someone, on a Lupo , separating the cv joint from the shaft and they were whacking the outer edge of the cv joint with a hammer and not using any circlip pliers. Is that the correct way of doing it? , not sure on exact terminology, does that mean it has a snap ring in there and not a circlip? do they generally come apart OK or can it turn into a nightmare? So if I take the three bolts out of the bottom ball joint, then get someone to hold the driveshaft pulling it towards the gearbox, whilst I whack the outer part of the cv joint with a hammer (I would probably put a lump of wood inbetween hammer and cv joint) should it come apart easily?
  23. I recently bought a Lupo 1000cc base model 2004. It has about 68k on it. It is a bit shabby, certainly not a one careful owner type car. Anyway, although there is some service history for early years there is no evidence it has had the timing belt changed. As it is 14 yrs old and the catastrophe that can occur with valves if belt goes, I feel I should replace the belt to be on the safe side. I have done this on many cars I have bought over the years when buying them. But, generally, do people find that the tensioner also needs replacing on these. On many cars years ago no one every replaced the tensioners and they never seemed to fail. Are they known to fail? when changing the belt do people find the tensioner bearing is showing signs of wear?
  24. a code reader can cost less than what a garage will charge you to read the codes
  25. are diesels really out of favour generally. I know they have had some negative press but it would not stop me buying one, I feel a lot of people out there would still buy one for the better fuel economy and superior torque, particularly if they have had a diesel before. when it comes to money there are plenty of us out there who put our own pocket first and not whether we will pollute the planet. If it was mine I would probably have a go at fixing it unless I knew the car had a lot of other issues that would need money in the short term and make the whole lot uneconomically worthwhile. A friend of mine had a rover diesel which ended up with a load of bent valves, he put the valves in a vice and hammered them straight. Amazingly it all seemed fine after reassembly. I think the only two things he bought were a new timing belt and a new head gasket. Another friend had a Mk3 Escort (CVH engine). a load of bent valves which he hammered straight and a load of bent rocker arms (these are thick pressed steel). he hammered the rocker arms straight. some of them had split where bent, so he welded the splits. all worked when back together but after a while there were problems caused by valves not opening fully. this was because his welding on the split rocker arms was insufficient (a poor migweld without enough penetrartion), so he bought some secondhand rockers and fitted them and all was fine. I used the car myself for about 2 years after this. If you have gone this far with dismantling you may as well go for it (mind you I have no idea what a head and gaskets will cost you). but why did the tensioner stud shear? and can you you sort that out easily (I don't know how accessible)
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