Joshhert
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Reckon there's any chance of seeing an SDI for sale with under 50k on the clock? Wishing I'd bought one of the ones that low in the last four years
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Thanks for the contacts and advice, mart have me a good estimate for the recon. Are all arosa's 085 boxes? What's the right price for a recon box, 500? I'm thinking I might swap mine out and then recon at my leisure
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Does anyone know a good transmissions place? Preferably Wales our southwest England? Hoping for 500 for gearbox recon refit and new clutch
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Thanks mk2, I was coming to that conclusion, and its great to have informed 2nd and 3rd opinions. Also having done more than two hundred miles since the Noise became very distressing, and much more Than 2000 since I first noticed it, i agree that it would be unwise to push it
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So I did the tests, both cv joints greasy and in good condition. The flanges they bolt onto had no roughness or slop, hard to turn by hand initially but once turning feel easy and smooth. When driving (hand brake on) in first with one shaft off, no strong noise. In neutral the flange was driving? I guess the force being transferred by box oil? But easily stopped by hand. Being that it's quiet driving straight, but now equally loud turning at all either way, my guess is pinion bearing/s? Just a small note, but avoid j&r driveshaft bolts, not only are they allen bolts, but they are too long for the passenger side, and would foul on the gear box housing a few turns before being home
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Also thank you all for your awesome advice, and incredibly speedy responses. I'm fairly handy but going through a very sharp diagnosis learning curve, which should do me good for the rest of my driving life
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Excellent advice, I'll do the test over the next couple of days. Suitable grease for cv? I recognise that about the bolts, more wondering if there were compatible bolts off another vehicle
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Also I need to replace the driveshaft bolts. Are there any standard hex ones that will work? Or allen not bihex? Not a fan
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Cheers sausage, great advice. So remove and Check leaking driveshaft, test, repeat for other side?
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What grease can i use? I only have lithium atm. Just been for the first proper drive, up to 60mph for 23 miles. The weird thing is that before I had clearly identified the noise as disappearing when turning left, now it is completely smooth when going straight, loud when turning right and LOUDEST turning left. Definite noise change after top up If it were output or diff could turning affect it? Right hand boot intact, and externally dry, left hand drive shaft replaced 100 miles ago, grease leak only little, under 20ml, and after drive now nearby components not splattered So either not leaking or all grease lost I'm in street, in Somerset
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Also there grease leak is from the metal plate at the gearbox end the bolts go through, seems to be slightly skew so I'll re-visit that
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So did a few tests and it seems almost exactly like this: On 25/12/2011 at 11:01 PM, grazo22 said:I had a bearing noise from my gearbox about 5000 miles ago and it had progressively getting worse however all gears still engaged fine. They were noisy when coming off the throttle though. when it suddenly went, it was a long drive home and apparently i just stopped in time because when the main shaft was taken from the casing the bearing fell apart." So mine isn't noisy coming off throttle whilst driving, but with a wheel up, and abruptly coming off throttle there's a definite clatter. Listening with Dowell to driveshaft, knuckle and gearbox casing there is more noise by gearbox in fact. checked gearbox oil and it was 3/4" below the full plug. Topped up and seems to be quieter. Obvious slow weeping from selector seal. I seem to remember reading someone had a similar problem, noise, no gear difficulty, topped up and went silent but failed shortly after. Since topping up mine seems to be quite quiet driving straight and much louder cornering either way. Marked the wheel, did slow circles in a parking lot with the help of a friend. Noise seems to be about 4 times to every 3 wheel revs. Any suggestions? How big a pain is it to remove gearbox, replace output bearings, selector seal, replace clutch and refit? Also does anyone know of a good transmissions place that could do those jobs for 400-500? Any input greatly appreciated Thanks
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Cheers for the excellent advice, I definitely won't rule out the treats exchange, but this time I want to do it myself so I'm really clear on whats gone wrong. I'll do the checks, already done the backplate and wheel bolts, and the 6 12 wiggle. any safe way to disconnect only the splined driveshaft end to test jacked up and running? I don't want to take it off the gear box as it will spray the leftover grease. Also more of a pain to remove. I'll also remove pads and run jacked up to eliminate that. Cheers guys, I'll keep you posted!
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I used a big bolt based puller. Good to know that little distance loose will do it. Hoping it's that. Any tips on pressing on races during re-fit? I understand that you press on outer race into knuckle, and press against inner race when fitting hub?