Jump to content

LR5V

Members
  • Content Count

    328
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by LR5V

  1. That listing information I quoted must be incorrect, 3L control arms don't have ball joints like other lupo's: They appear to be press fit / insert into the alloy arm
  2. Interesting thread you found. Did you search on the part number shown on the box? Don't buy these until someone can confirm (assuming they ship to Korea) - I found an Autodoc listing for the RTS part - as 6E0407365 for fitment on Lupo 3L - I have no 3L experience, does that sound plausible? but it seems odd to me that they use the same physical dimensions as Gti, but different part number - it could be the 3L has Alloy control arms, the flat part is likely to be thicker as they connect differently, thus the part number difference. The issue I have found is part sellers just substitute other manufacturer parts for ones listed, also seen aftermarket manufacturer parts catalogues incorrect too. I was also attempting to find a cheaper ball joint solution, I read of people having issues with drive shaft CV's after fitment of standard non Gti short ball joints pushing the joints inwards. I ended up getting genuine ones.
  3. Are you looking for good used hinges from other models? I would take your old hinges on a day trip to a scrap yard to see what matches up, a lot will be dictated by how thick the door is and pivot point
  4. LR5V

    Lupo Body Modification

    IMO.. If you get rear ended at low speed - With the the original bumper & internal iron your Lupo usually will live to fight another day. Without the bumper and iron it will very likely your Lupo will get written off.
  5. LR5V

    Greetings from the Canada!

    If you really get stuck for replacement AC compressor, can I suggest you contact Orchideuro they import parts from Europe by the container to Pennsylvania. I suspect its not the quickest of services, but you are happy to wait. I understand the guy in charge is Jamie Orr, a good name in VW community, he does some mad 5 day builds on You tube
  6. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    Oil pump showed up yesterday. Been reading through Casper Gti's excellent build thread, he had a few hick-ups on his build. Got some great tips buried in that thread - getting some Graphogen for bearings and Torco engine assembly lube. Thanks for the advice - the spare engine apparently had 90k miles on it, I am going to take the block to be checked over at a shop to get their opinion, thought new rings needed a deglazed bore to seal in properly Yes - start and finish outside the bore with lots and lots of lube oil
  7. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    Treated my Gti to some new plugs & new ignition leads Really pleased with the build quality of the leads, they are half the price of Magnecor leads, choice of 3 colours and are British made from Formula Power Compared to the old cables they look to be twice the size, this means it is bye bye to the cable tray - shame about the rub line in the rocker cover. Got to say I am really pleased with the roadkill taught cable tie spacers
  8. Nice one Sausage - how easy hard was the switch to replace?
  9. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    read horror storeys about them, very easy to mess up - the bog brush is self-centring, great scoring - a lot more user friendly
  10. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    Thanks for the suggestion will look into them - will do this after stripping the spare engine down I was planning on getting a Flex-hone
  11. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    And I like Victor Reinz and long autumnal walks - its a metal gasket - should be reet
  12. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    Actually, when i was connecting up the Mocal cooler I was thinking of deleting the cooler entirely, what a shame I didnt at the time! I am still of the opinion that oil is a much greater pressure, it will get into the coolant and pressurise the coolant system - but as the header has emptied itself so quickly it is hard to tell. Head may have been partially blown for a while - the radiator was leaking stopping pressure to build up, so not getting any worse, I was not sure how much water it was using due to this. Long and short of it I dont want to risk running the engine any more than necessary, currently the only thing precious is the cams. I am tempted to hook up the cooler to my compressor pumping in one side and a shrader valve in the other to see if it will hold a reasonable pressure. Been busy on Ebay, head and bottom end gaskets, head bolts, rear seal & timing belt kit including water pump: Spoke to a recommended garage about building the bottom end, I was confident in their ability, but the time to do the task and ultimately cost were higher than I was expecting, I would rather put that money towards the possible engine work. So I am going to stick with the original plan of rebuilding the spare engine - assuming the internals are good, it should just be new standard sized bearings. But due to the uncertainty I need to strip the fast road cams off the current engine to inspect. Need special tools - I have found the inlet cam locking tool, but for the VVT pulley I will need one of these T10073 tools - any one got one to sell or lend?:
  13. LR5V

    New fuel line

    That sounds familiar...
  14. LR5V

    Clayton's Tornado Red GTI..

    I like those Enkis in bigger diameter, but in that size the thickness alloy outside the spokes makes them look small. More importantly how do they compare weight wise to the Superligerras?
  15. LR5V

    New fuel line

    I replaced mine - the clip on the filter would not undo. My beam was off at the time - suspect that helped a lot for access - so not sure how much harder it is with it still there. Definitely easier as a 2 man job, drop the rear tank straps, tank resting on a trolley jack and lower it 8 to 10cm. the old one is clipped onto the tank near the sender unit with one person on top loosen the pipe and the one below pulling, but note that there is a specific route the pipe takes, ideally you need to take pictures to help route the new pipe, first feed the new pipe loosely and adjust route until its correct and clip it all together. raise the tank and bolt straps back, re-intake access panel and your done.
  16. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    Done some thinking, the issue is there is at least 3 litres of coolant in the sump. I am concerned my brief drive may have allowed the oil pump to have sucked up water instead of oil and damaged the engine. Since owning the Lupo I have not really done any serious mileage maybe only 50 to 100 miles a month. I have hardly put any miles on what I was told was a recently rebuilt head - therefore my trust in the PO's work is very low. My plan is to eradicate as much of the PO work from the Lupo as I can and get my spare engine rebuilt - Bottom end by a garage, new bearings & rings Cylinder head - ported & polished, mainly on exhaust side, inlet a quick tidy open ports out to match gasket, will rebuild this bit myself This leaves the hot cams in their carrier... unfortunately this needs to come from the current engine - I was going to "just swap the cams" but after researching on here it is a complete mare of a job with special tools, just got to hope there was no oil starvation. Already invested in all the required Victor Reinz gaskets, Gates Cam belt kit, new oil pump - going to ask for Goetze rings unless there is something better out there? Rear crank seal with timing ring - I have read this needs a very expensive special tool to install is that correct?
  17. LR5V

    Regards from Rome (Italy)

    This is light damage for Rome - surely its a good thing as other drivers keep a bit of distance from you - I know I do the same with people driving accident damage courtesy cars
  18. LR5V

    Arosa Engine light on ?

    I removed mine - it just slides up these slots and I capped off the solenoid with silicone cap and cable tie - routed the vent pipe into the wheel arch through one of the slots as you can see above
  19. Interesting parts list, cant say how accurate it is, but it lists off what other cars share the same parts - occasionally non-vag stuff pops up http://www.vehiclepartsdatabase.com/vehicles/allprivateroadvehicles/volkswagen/lupo/16gti/avy/18052
  20. LR5V

    Arosa Engine light on ?

    In the snip below - 1 is the rough location of the purge solenoid - you will see a pipe connecting to the - 2 is the carbon canister
  21. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    Thanks guys - its not going to burn through 1.5 litres of water in less than a mile, there is no carpets to conceal heater core leak, it seems to be a major leak -so it just drops straight to the bottom of the sump in one big lump. The engine runs well - so its not burst into the combustion chambers - it must have broken through into a low pressure oil way - if it was high pressure the oil would be in the expansion tank. The thing is the old radiator was leaking, the coolant system was not pressurising for a while - new rad, extra pressure looking for a weak spot, found it in the head gasket.
  22. LR5V

    Clayton's Tornado Red GTI..

    The PO mentioned something about remap in Sunderland Do you have smooth or hard rev limiter - mines hard at I think 7600 and it drives me nuts! Remind me - you did a full engine rebuild? mine had recently had the head rebuilt by the PO, not sure how good a job he did as the head gasket has just gone. He claimed to have done a slight port of the head, but I couldnt see any evidence. maybe new rings would gain a few ponies on mine
  23. LR5V

    Clayton's Tornado Red GTI..

    Oh - that's really annoying about the valve I'm chuffed with your result - that's matching mine with Kam manifold, system & Dbilas inlet.
  24. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    don't think it would work - its taking the coolant way too quickly
  25. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    My continuing tale of misfortune is still going strong... I knew it would fail MOT on a few things, silly stuff I could get the garage to fix with an alignment, I had asked for that to be done before the test, they came back saying all they could do was tracking, not camber. Camber was so mad when the brake test occurred it was throwing the Lupo out of the machine! - they had to do a road test instead. The most concerning fail was emissions - its running very rich - maybe the lambda pocket is reducing the amount of oxygen it sees, but not able to see how much - if I take the pocket away I may well get CEL again. Garage said it may just need a really good run. Other issues were fuel filter loose - I forgot to cable tie it back into position and a top mount worn, the one area of suspension I did not touch! Got the Lupo back, took it down the road to another place for alignment, drove it for a bit to see how it was, the good news is the LSD really makes a difference, I can feel both wheels gripping even in a straight line. Lightened flywheel - well I didn't notice much difference as I was pussy-footing it about, maybe there was too much resistance on the crank in the sump... yes my head gasket is definitely blown, checking the oil level its about 3 inches higher than it should be and I kept having to top up the coolant, initially put in 3 litres and have topped up with another 3. Oh and as a final slap in the face, the oil leak at the sump is still there - suspect I dislodged the seal on the rear crank when I first tried to take the sump off. With so much to do around the engine I am thinking engine out, its got to be easier than gearbox out. May even rebuild one of the spare engine bottom ends.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.