LR5V

There is a 6 day old thread in this section asking the same Q

Welcome Wheel adaptors really eat up space pushing the rims out - suspect they will catch the arches You can confirm this by looking at willtheyfit.com find the wheel sizes and offset then add width of adapter. You may be better off selling the stuff you have - adaptors are not cheap and the Mk3 BBS's should sell well too - putting the money towards tyres on the current rims.

Mine came with a custom solid insert on the big disc area, still has rubber bush at the small end - didn't experience old mount - but engine is in there good and solid front to back without any annoying vibrations: Cant imagine getting a disc of aluminium turned to size will be very expensive or dependant on size a hockey puck could be installed here. edit - stumbled on an in-situ before powder coating picture:

Here you go:

I think it was @Sausage who replaced the entire length with hydraulic line - there is a thread somewhere on here - you can order them for a very reasonable price made to measure on ebay, you will be replacing the banjo & bolt with male fittings. Just need to be careful for routing near exhaust/moving parts

Rubbing in the rear is also dependant on bush condition -or if really unlucky beam condition - if your beam bushes are goosed it can sit lopsided making that side rub

I don't know if its my browser but I cant access the instructions. Mine came with powerflex bushes installed - you're absolutely right, that tube locks the centre of the bush into the recess in the subframe and the bore of the tube is tight to the bolt, stopping any adjustment. I find the washer arrangement it be very Heath Robinson - they have a similar arrangement on their Mk2/3 golf bushes - that are a PITA to install, they did not go back on. I would suggest swapping out the powerflex for something more OEM - either bog standard Mk4 Golf R32 solid bushes that are press in or try Superpro SPF2084K, the metal insert has an eccentric hole, that gives you some caster adjustment, depending how you rotate/install them they can be used to dial out torque steer, plus they have sufficient space around the bolt that allows subframe movement - with no random washers or tubes.

Yeah - suspect the siver change was around 2001-2, same as Mk4 Golf - Moon giving way to Reflex - Moon is the duller one of the 2

According to Parkers: https://www.parkers.co.uk/volkswagen/lupo/hatchback-1999/insurance-groups/ All the 1.4's are group 7 and Gti is Group 22 - only 15 groups difference, you may be looking at a grand a month! I can't comment on cost as mine was on a modified policy, garaged and also limited mileage to 1500, but its the same as my Mk5 Gti daily with 12k miles a year in Group 34 with full NCB. But if its a second car, you have to build up no claims bonus on the second policy -you are essentially starting from scratch but with the benefit of some proven track record of driving with the other policy. The big mainstream insurers do multi car policies, but not sure if they can tailor for older specialist car and young driver combination. You could try a specialist broker...but suspect they will sniff this thread out and appear with a puff of smoke.

I don't think I can teach you anything fella! Only thing I can think of is sudden throttle off situation, the sprague allows the alternator to free spin down rather than an abrupt stop/reduction in speed. And that could be engineered to allow for: smooth out the voltage rather than spikes stop the bearings getting hammered, rising revs in gear are slower than throttle off reduce impact on drive belt & components This may also allow a lower (cheaper) spec bearing to be used within the alternator, but that may be a bit of a reach. Is this on you diesel Lupo? interesting that Lupo Gti has fixed pulley, my Mk4 Gti was also fixed and Mk5 gti has sprague

Welcome to the forum Wow - that is mint - get it rust proofed to protect it You are not the only Jersey member - for are your island may be a Lupo hot spot!

Hard water area? If your rad was silted up, its pretty likely your heater core will be too - have you tried flushing it out with a hose? - ideally back flow

Yes - sump can come off giving full access to rods, but down pipe needs to be dropped VW’s have a thing called service position - front panel comes off entirely - getting you right next to engine, one or two bodies could man handle the engine out without a crane. sounds like it’s got all the usual problems - have you seen the how to section? are wings and doors alloy skin? What’s the deal with the rims?

Welcome to the forum Valve seals are possible issue, but piston rings can wear prematurely - I would do a compression test before parting with cash. Ask the current owner what grade of oil they are running - should ideally be 5w-40 Quantum Platinum - if they are running a thinner grade of oil it could just be rinsing past the rings. Also running on low octane fuel can lead to burnt valves - ask the owner what they have been running The rocker cover is a Cam box - to time up the cams you need to lock them in place, the tool isn't expensive - but an even cheaper option is you can use drill bits. But if you go the whole hog stripping the cams out, there is no woodruff key on inlet cam for the VVT pulley - this does need 2 special tools to align. The video below is a 1.4tsi engine rebuild, bottom end and head are similar to AVY - only thing to take extra care is rear seal, it has the timing ring built into it, you don't want that going in wonky - I really like his threaded rod trick for landing the RVT'd sump and rocker cover in correct location:

Seperate fuses for indicators and Hazards - have you replaced/checked both? or Mk2 may have already sussed this with the hazard switch -

IIRC it's the leading slide pin is the one with either steps or sometimes 3 flats milled out - trailing edge is round

Depending on material being used to cast - the mold parts could be 3D printed

For a mold - If you can get hold of the stuff dentists use that would give you the best result - but may ware out quickly For 3D model - this could be built up from photos & fed into Autodesk 123D or other software

And I thought I was being a good Miss Marple!

or my 2nd suggestion: https://www.killallwipers.com/

I use Haynes manual 4150 for a Polo 2000 to 2002 - close enough for most stuff on a Lupo

Yes - good point on the baggy hose - it reminded me of my Mk4, it had a short length of hose that had softened and got loose - I just replaced it with some silicone hose and cable tied it.

Yes they will fit - but the Diesel springs are geared up for heavy diesel engine, it will probably lift the front end of your light 1 litre higher

or delete the wiper entirely

Another option is VW do a repair kit with replacement tube, gaskets, grease - same kit does Mk4 Golf Audi A3, A6.