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LR5V

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Everything posted by LR5V

  1. They tend to be M14 x 1.5 Nylock. I find it’s best taking them of with impact gun
  2. Door seals appear to be present - its only an hour away, close enough to go and view of an evening.
  3. I like your strapping plan, just take every RH turn & roundabout gingerly. Bear in mind you will get money back from steering wheel, wheel adaptor, harnesses, seat rails and the seats - the latter commands more cash if they are still within age.
  4. Parmo- Its a chicken escalope, covered in béchamel sauce and then cheese, usually baked in a pizza oven just like a lasagna. Think it was invented in Sunderland??? Not seen it anywhere outside the NE. Powder coating - I just asked for the threads to be bunged up
  5. LR5V

    lupo tdi

    Probably with a lot of lead! Dont know how much metal they have - understand they machine off the lip and barrel to accept the split dish and barrel form behind, seen quite a few 80's 90's OEM wheels tarted up like this, the Teddies are a extreme but poor example, early smaller rims are ideal leaving space for the dishes:
  6. The stub axle set is similar to Mk4 Golf, I had seen a thread where someone had removed their mk4 stub axle without touching the bearing - I tried to do this on the Lupo, but you can only get good access to 1 bolt, partial access to 1 more, leaving 2 you cant get at - afraid its still bearing off. if its any help, this is my spacer before powder coating: IIRC its the RH one, the non rusty area is covered by the stub axle - From this I can confirm the order is splash guard, spacer and then stub axle, all bolted together by bolts in the green. There are spring dowels that keep the stub axle to the spacer- iirc only to in the right hand holes That surprised me! - have you been Frape'd?
  7. Hope this works out, I get the feeling it will be a good @mk2 restoration its a good idea, I may be wrong, ignoring the spacers behind the stub axle, I thought the Gti beam was wider - I can measure mine in the day light
  8. Grey cable ties look oem to me and the ecu can be re-flashed via the VCDS port, so the reason its flapping around may not be bench remap -But considering the care your Lupo has had in the past, I would be surprised if it was actually secured! When you get VCDS you need this info on measuring blocks: https://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/
  9. According to how many left they think there is 550 on the road and 250 Sorn'd - much of the latter by @Rich The 150 apparently been scrapped and broken up - but his doesn't sound right
  10. Yes - you should be fine without guards - Your method is correct up till 5. The splash guard is behind the stub axle, but covering the bolts holding the stub axle on is is the wheel bearing. If you are lucky the bearing will slide off, unlucky and the bearings stick on the shaft and like to gut themselves as the get removed using a puller. When I did mine, the bearings came apart and I re-assembled them, at the MOT they listed loose rear bearings in the comments -I now need new bearings Ideally you need new bearings to go on, also your stub axle, spacer and beam will be crusty, consider wire brushing and painting - I rebuilt my entire beam all parts powder coated
  11. But the info given by the OP was: If every sensor has been replaced and apparently working what else is there: It is not a definitive answer, but it fits with the info given. interested to hear what is causing this.
  12. Afraid the ends are not replaceable, and the clips are problematic I had to replace the one from the tank not too hard to do, brand new last year it was around £30
  13. I don't think injectors are causing over fuelling, they are being told to give more fuel than required, sounds like the O2 sensor is seeing too much oxygen, to balance this out its telling the injectors to give more fuel - you have checked for air leaks? crusty vacuum pipes? manifold leaks? Yes, the injectors don't dismantle - professional service is proper cleaning inside and out with new seals. If you are feeling brave you can clean them internally with carb cleaner - you tube has people doing this, you need to activate the injector and squirt cleaner through the injector. -this isn't as good as pro job, but no wait to get them back.
  14. No problem fella - probably missed in the MOT as it's in the boot. Battery gives of hydrogen when it gets charged - but if over charged it gives off hydrogen sulphide not a big deal in an engine bay, but is if its in the cabin. Just went looking for a PN, but no luck - its a bent piece of metal rod that slots into an opening at the front, sits in the groove around the battery and only one bolt -that you can see in my pic above - at the eye shown below:
  15. Whats wrong with your current injectors? They can be cleaned and serviced
  16. Sorry if I am reading between the lines here, but it is the battery box, is your battery not bolted down? It should have a bracket and bolt + the vent goes to the battery, tube connects onto a 90 degree elbow that is usually included with the terminal covers on new batteries: If its not bolted down, it would be an MOT fail as it could move around in a n accident, short out and start a fire.
  17. Look into custom stainless exhaust, you get exactly what you want, price isn't that much more than off the shelf
  18. If you need to change engine oil, consider engine oil flush, I find it usually clears gummed up hydraulic valve lifters.
  19. The debris on top of the filter is normal, they just find their way in there under the scuttle. Water under filter, As Rich says - blocked drains from scuttle into wheel arch. Gurgling Heater may be trapped air
  20. Price varies for rebuilds, I would say it will be 2 to 3 hundred for the rebuild. More if whoever does the work has to take the box out - you can get a gauge on what that cost will be from the labour doing the clutch. Unless you know otherwise, chances are the oil in the box is from factory - I would be tempted to try renewing the gearbox oil, it wont fix it but may smooth it out and keep you on the road a bit longer. Failing that, get old school and practice double de-clutching!
  21. LR5V

    GTI Upgrades

    By the power of ebay I sourced these: I asked about custom sizes from the seller I linked to before, 1.2mm Zintec steel, probably longer than needed but went for 1.7m lengths - long enough for full sill. I feel £28 including delivered is great value. Doesn't look it in the picture but the 25mm lip is folded at a right angle and should make a nice neat sill edge. The wider part is 75mm, went bigger here as I can cut it down to suit the wavering cut lines in the existing sill and floor pan. In my part of the world the Weekend weather has continued to suck and other commitments have curbed my enthusiasm - but I do still need to source the thinner mig wire and tips, some more weld through primer + at least one spare argon mix gas bottle.
  22. I suspect they are not high tensile, most of the work being done here is gravity holding the gearbox mount in place -I would look for stainless replacements, but if you really want OEM... Small tray bolts item 24 http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hg_ug/915/subcategory/915000/part_id/3692158/lang/e#sec_24 and the other ones are shared with the gearbox mount here: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hg_ug/199/subcategory/199020/part_id/3682881/lang/e#sec_5 If they are still available, I bet there are not cheap.
  23. I picked up a spare for mine, unfortunately its not to hand, not looked at it in detail -but I believe the flap is one piece, no separate pin. looking at the picture the black plastic sides slope in suggesting that during assembly the flap expands the sides before locating in the holes I would try working out a way to wedge both sides out and slide the flap in the direction and slide the flap out in the direction of the arrow
  24. Hey nice lupo - I have tried wading through the 13 pages of this thread, but like bono, I’ve not found wha5 I’m looking for... what cage have you got fitted? front upper strut brace - this looks like OMP, does it make any difference?
  25. More info on the eraser wheel? I use fishing nylon - it’s quite a bit tougher than dental floss
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