Chris-M

Yes Pete. Any engine dash light up is a fail now.

Hi Guys. Anyone come across a common component on fuse 30 that shorts and takes it out? i have a number of fault codes and an EML warning on the cash. MOT imminent of course. Did have one 2 years ago - small heater in the crankcase breather pipe, but I replaced that with a new OEM part. I have been unsuccessfully hunting Earth point faults for this. Now I’m not so sure. Fuse 18 had gone as well, but I’m 90% that will just be the heated mirrors. I need to get a new ticket on the Lupo, so any help would be appreciated.. VCDS faults are: 17911 Load signal from alternator term DF P1503 implausible 17935 Cam Timing Adg Bank 1 n205 P1527short to ground 16394 Bank. 1 Camshaft Intake P0010 Position actuator malfunction 17833 EVAP Purge valve N80 P1425 35-00 Short to ground N80 - has anyone ever had one of these short to ground? Seems to always pop up on the fault lists regardless. N205 is it as obvious as a dud N205 component? I seem to recall it can be something really random and unrelated? Cheers- Chris

Six months later... I'd better sort this. This is on a GTI, so plugs I am looking for are the same - on the gearbox bracket? I thought it would be easy to trace this and find the earths etc. Found two facing forward by the passenger side light. One 13mm nut one 10mm with a brown on it. Stupidly hard to get in there.

Just to check - the terminals that may be corroding are in the fuse box arrangement above the gearbox? One has four fuses in, the other what looks like a jump start connection. Contact cleaner in the multi pin connectors at the front, gearbox end of the engine?

Thanks Rich. Will check them out.

Evening all. EML popped up yesterday on the gti. Scanned and cleared the fault. Drove into work this morning. No problem. Went to drive home - EML back on. Scan results ( I scan as a 6x as Ross tech list 6e as a type 6L only). 5 faults on engine 17911 load signal from alternator term DF p103 35-00 implausible signal 18010 power supply terminal 30 P1602 35-10 voltage too low intermittent. 17833 evap purge N80 p1425 short to ground 17935 camshaft riming adj. bank 1 N205 p1527 35-00 Short to ground 16394 Bank 1 camshaft A intake P0010 35-00 position actuator malfunction 1 other log of an alarm trigger 01463. But that could have been me at some point. The last three I have seen before when my breather heater had taken out fuse 30 or 31. Not seen the first two before. Any clues or advice? Cheers - Chris.

I had 2 plug bores full of oil when I did mine. Can the seals be sorted, or is a new cover the only fix? Seems a bit extreme? I suppose you could use sealant, but I wouldn't be too keen on doing that.

So. If you have this fault, the pipe joint is behind the parcel shelf support trim on the passenger side. Pop the LH side of the boot trim that goes across the lower part of the opening by the lock etc. You will now see two Torx fasteners. Remove both. If you intend to move this trim panel right out the way, rather than struggling behind it, then you will need to pull the upper rear 1/4 trim covering the rear speakers. Get your fingers or a plastic pry behind the upper edge of the trim and pull. Expect to break a few of the white plastic clips. Work your way round the panel until it is free and set it aside. Remove any remaining clips from the holes if they have popped off the panel. You will now see the wiring clipped down the rear inner arch area and three black plastic clips holding the parcel shelf support trim to the rear 1/4. Look carefully at the clip heads and you will see a slot for a screwdriver. Put a flat blade in and twist. The head will move away allowing you to get hold of it and pull it out. They are a peg which expands a clip into the body. Once you have pulled all three pegs, you can pull the panel and the black clips will pop out the bodywork. Extend the rear seat belt and you should be able to lift the panel out around the seat back clamp and out of your way. To remove the rear 1/4 pocket, again get your fingers or a plastic pry behind the panel and pull. There are three vertical blade clips locating this trim onto the part that extends along the door aperture. Be careful not to snap these. Lift the pocket upwards feeling behind the join with your fingers to release the clips. Removing this panel isn’t strictly necessary, but allows you to inspect the rear 1/4 sill cavity and flush out any screen wash. You will also expose the loom and allow it to dry. Moving back up the loom, you will, feel the wrapping is wet up to a soggy anti rattle sock covering connectors. No need to cut or rip this open. Simply fold it back on itself and pull it inside out. This should reveal a few electrical connectors and the offending washer pipe joint which will probably have popped apart. Either clip it back together or repair the joint. Blow through the pipe to the jet to make sure it is clear. If not, you are going to need to trace the blockage. Once clipped together, test your rear wash wipe and either bask in the glory of your sucesss, or look on as washer fluid pees into the car from behind the tailgate trim. Open the tailgate, look up into the grab handles on the trim, remove the two Torx screws. Pull on the handles and the clips should start to pop. Work from the centre out to the edge until the boot trim comes free. First check the rubber pipe feeding into the washer jet is not split. If sound. Check the plastic pipe for leaks. Test the wash again and you may see water squirting out from the wiper mechanism spindle. If so, remove the clip which may be a quick release or a jubilee type. Carefully pry the rubber away from the pipe and twist until it starts to move, then pull it off the plastic barb. Or, squeeze the quick release to separate. Lower the tail gate, flip the hinged cover on the wiper and you will expose the jet. Get hold with a pair of pliers and pull the jet straight out of its feed pipe. Back inside the tailgate, you will see the metal cover on the wiper assembly is held with a load of small Torx screws. Remove all of these and carefully lift off the aluminium cover. What you will probably be left holding is the cover with the plastic feed with its broken brass pipe attached. The other 1/2 of the brass pipe will still be seized up inside the wiper spindle. If you planned ahead and bought your repair kit and hand full of trim clips, well done. If not, store your panels and any good clips carefully. Plug the rubber washer feed pipe. Remove the broken plastic and brass part from the aluminium cover and re-fit it with the Torx screws. You now need a rear wash wipe repair kit from TPS. I will update with the part number soon. Some small drill bits and a cordless drill will be required to remove the remains of the tube seized in the spindle. Allow the loom to dry. Use cloths and kitchen towel to soak up as much of the fluid as possible, it can be pretty corrosive. Separate and flush any electrical connectors with contact cleaner. Mop out the rear 1/4 or flush with clean water in a spray bottle. Dry it out and if need be, blow a bit of Bilt Hamber UC into the cavity To be continued..... So here is your repair kit. Part number 8L0-998-711 Very comprehensive with full fitting instructions. It isn’t cheap. I will rebuild with the kit, then we can see if I can come up with a budget fix on the old parts.

Next job. No rear screen wash. Checked the feed through the wiper itself - familiar with these from Mk4 Golfs. All good. Screen wash level drops, so pump is working. Sure enough it has fluid peeing out the passenger sill drains. So, can I get to this pipe by removing the upper card, or do I need to pull the lower plastic cover on the rear 1/4? Any tips on how to remove it? Once inside what am I likely to find? Need to de bug the fronts as well. 12 months sitting bone dry has led to a lot of particles getting into the pipes. Cleared them a few times already. Cheers - Chris.

Still not played with the settings on vagcom. But, I do now have fully functioning locks and properly fitted door cards. Not a cheap exercise if you fit two new lock modules, but after several attempts at fixing the very broken existing ones, I called it a day. Card clips were interesting. The black studs that fit into grommets are pigs and seem to be a fit once and bin it item. Had a few problems getting new clips into the panel. In the end I gave up on a few of the troublesome ones, pulled the grommet from the door and used spare white reusable clips. One job ticked off. Looking for a solution to the horrible soft touch plastic coat on the grab handles which has deteriorated. Onwards the malfunctioning wash wipe....

Hi - that looks perfect. Can you drop me a pm and we can sort something out? Cheers - Chris.

Ha - spot on LupoGTIBoy. Double press and it unlocks. Fell a bit silly as I have a Mk4 R32 which is set the same way. Passengers side lock pack has arrived, so that should sort the other door. Cheers - Chris.

Its a nice place - Kind of London by the sea. Always been a bit Bohemian, even before everybody started moving out of town. Big arts scene, good bars, live music etc. Some good places to eat. Like any city, it has a few iffy bits and its share of homelessness. University - so it has a youthful feel about it. If you are after the weird and wonderful, i'm sure it is there to be found if you seek it out. :-)

That post made me laugh....

Thanks Rich.

Thanks - think you may be onto something there. My Golf is set that way.

Another question. My boot has been de-badged. I want to re-badge it. Got myself the LUPO letters - good second hand set. The GTI badge, TPS tell me this is 1J0 853 675 AH GQF and it is obsolete. What am I looking for here - the red I version or the earlier script? Any ideas where to get one? Cheers - Chris.

Morning. Can anyone give me a quick guide on getting into the lock settings with VAG com? I have not been able to find anything with search. I have been working through lock pack issues with my GTI. New drivers lock now means it will lock / unlock with the fob and key and alarm disables. Re-locks if you don't open the door, and I get the warning beep if the lights are left on. Happy that side is all OK. Passengers side, I can hear the motor activating the mechanism, then reversing. Door remains unlocked and alarm goes off if opened. Doesn't look good inside and I think a burnt out micro switch and broken part inside the motor gear are to blame. New pack is on order for that side. Boot look I have not looked at so far. It locks with the doors, but does not unlock when you open the car, I have to use the key. Perhaps this is a lock setting in VAG com? Otherwise I have a dud boot lock. An idea of the boot lock workings would be good. Hope you can help: Cheers- Chris.

The Wise One has spoken..... Crappy plastic bits pulled off and the battery fits like a glove. Never noticed those before. Won't give up day job. Many thanks: Chris.

Bought a new battery from TPS. Gave the model details and went for the quantum one. No way is that clamp fitting round it. The Exide offering was even bigger. The dead one I removed was a tiny Peugeot branded thing. Don't like having an unsecured battery in the boot. Anyone else had this problem? I admit the quantum one was the cheapest of the three options, but I did expect it to at least fit. Been kicking around a few weeks now while I did other things, so I can't really return it.

On behalf of a friend: Front and rear seats from an Arosa Sport. They are grey and red, could do with a clean. Rears have a few fag burns unfortunately. Fronts look good. They have airbag emblems on the sides. Inner rear drivers side frame has some welding on it, so I assume it was cracked at some point. Rest of interior bar the dash, headlining and steering wheel will be available soon, along with the 1.4 engine & box and AP coilovers. Will update. Collect from Horsham / Gatwick area. Front and rear seats £40.00

Just tried this from a tablet / phone and it worked. So am I right in saying I don't need a third party host like photobucket? This site hosts the image, and it stays here unless deleted, regardless of what I do to the original? Sorry if this is repeating something that has been discussed before, and Mods feel free to delete once confirmed. You should be looking at a random picture of an ice cream by the way...

Thanks for all the advice. I will try my part worn Toyo in 205/45, then make a decision from there. As you say, 195/45 gives a lot more choice and looks fine.

Oh, I'm going to have a look now. 2002 Wolfsburg built car.

Found it! Dunlop SP2000 205/45/R 15 - correct? There is some chit chat about Yokohama and Goodyear Eagle F1, but I can't find those. I run Eagle F1 asymetrics on other cars. I'd have those if they were available - excellent tyres. Anyone running 205/50/15? I have picked up a spare set of Bathursts, with Toyo 205/45/15s. 2 of the 4 are OK, so I suppose the thing to do is put a pair on the front and see how it feels. I am still on standard suspension, well worn cheap replacement dampers up front, temporary APs chucked on the rear, as existing had fallen to bits. New O/S springs as they were both busted.