So. If you have this fault, the pipe joint is behind the parcel shelf support trim on the passenger side.
Pop the LH side of the boot trim that goes across the lower part of the opening by the lock etc. You will now see two Torx fasteners. Remove both. If you intend to move this trim panel right out the way, rather than struggling behind it, then you will need to pull the upper rear 1/4 trim covering the rear speakers.
Get your fingers or a plastic pry behind the upper edge of the trim and pull. Expect to break a few of the white plastic clips. Work your way round the panel until it is free and set it aside. Remove any remaining clips from the holes if they have popped off the panel. You will now see the wiring clipped down the rear inner arch area and three black plastic clips holding the parcel shelf support trim to the rear 1/4. Look carefully at the clip heads and you will see a slot for a screwdriver. Put a flat blade in and twist. The head will move away allowing you to get hold of it and pull it out. They are a peg which expands a clip into the body. Once you have pulled all three pegs, you can pull the panel and the black clips will pop out the bodywork. Extend the rear seat belt and you should be able to lift the panel out around the seat back clamp and out of your way.
To remove the rear 1/4 pocket, again get your fingers or a plastic pry behind the panel and pull. There are three vertical blade clips locating this trim onto the part that extends along the door aperture. Be careful not to snap these. Lift the pocket upwards feeling behind the join with your fingers to release the clips. Removing this panel isn’t strictly necessary, but allows you to inspect the rear 1/4 sill cavity and flush out any screen wash. You will also expose the loom and allow it to dry.
Moving back up the loom, you will, feel the wrapping is wet up to a soggy anti rattle sock covering connectors. No need to cut or rip this open. Simply fold it back on itself and pull it inside out.
This should reveal a few electrical connectors and the offending washer pipe joint which will probably have popped apart. Either clip it back together or repair the joint. Blow through the pipe to the jet to make sure it is clear. If not, you are going to need to trace the blockage.
Once clipped together, test your rear wash wipe and either bask in the glory of your sucesss, or look on as washer fluid pees into the car from behind the tailgate trim.
Open the tailgate, look up into the grab handles on the trim, remove the two Torx screws. Pull on the handles and the clips should start to pop. Work from the centre out to the edge until the boot trim comes free. First check the rubber pipe feeding into the washer jet is not split. If sound. Check the plastic pipe for leaks. Test the wash again and you may see water squirting out from the wiper mechanism spindle. If so, remove the clip which may be a quick release or a jubilee type. Carefully pry the rubber away from the pipe and twist until it starts to move, then pull it off the plastic barb. Or, squeeze the quick release to separate. Lower the tail gate, flip the hinged cover on the wiper and you will expose the jet. Get hold with a pair of pliers and pull the jet straight out of its feed pipe. Back inside the tailgate, you will see the metal cover on the wiper assembly is held with a load of small Torx screws. Remove all of these and carefully lift off the aluminium cover. What you will probably be left holding is the cover with the plastic feed with its broken brass pipe attached. The other 1/2 of the brass pipe will still be seized up inside the wiper spindle.
If you planned ahead and bought your repair kit and hand full of trim clips, well done. If not, store your panels and any good clips carefully. Plug the rubber washer feed pipe. Remove the broken plastic and brass part from the aluminium cover and re-fit it with the Torx screws.
You now need a rear wash wipe repair kit from TPS. I will update with the part number soon. Some small drill bits and a cordless drill will be required to remove the remains of the tube seized in the spindle. Allow the loom to dry. Use cloths and kitchen towel to soak up as much of the fluid as possible, it can be pretty corrosive. Separate and flush any electrical connectors with contact cleaner. Mop out the rear 1/4 or flush with clean water in a spray bottle. Dry it out and if need be, blow a bit of Bilt Hamber UC into the cavity To be continued.....
So here is your repair kit. Part number 8L0-998-711
Very comprehensive with full fitting instructions. It isn’t cheap. I will rebuild with the kit, then we can see if I can come up with a budget fix on the old parts.