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creon

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  1. creon

    P0404

    Auc engine .999cc. Removed egr everything seems fine tested new and old with 12v both seem to work, ran car with egr off and plenty of exhaust gases getting past. I've reassembled and it's running fine with dash lights off and error code not come back for now. I've understood that the front 02 sensor might give trouble in regards to the egr but shouldn't it throw it's own code?
  2. creon

    P0404

    So with my new egr valve installed do i have to set this up with vagcom o'r is it straight swap? Cant identify the problem I'm going to remove the egr valve and see if the inlet/outlet back towards the engine is gummed up, can't think of anything else 😔
  3. creon

    P0404

    Got the code p0404 up on the dash read and came up with egr, this being the 3rd time I've cleaned it out I went and bought a new one branded mapco. Any way lights on the dash have come back with the same p0404. Either the new egr had failed o'r three another issue such as vacuum o'r electrical. I need a hand to pin point in right direction please, previously the egr has stuck open but not this time. And previously the car would stall but again not this time, after the new egr the light went away and it seemed to run and rev a lot cleaner, but since the light is back there's a slight misfire. Tonight I'm going to take the engine cover off and trace the vacuum pipe back then clean the air filters, I'm going to electrical tape the vacuum pipe and look for any frayed wires. Anything else I can look for?
  4. Could anyone tell me which fluid for the power steering please, for 2004 auc arosa. Lots of conflicting information. Can I use Halfords or vag specific, dextron 2 / 3. I've got some Halfords stuff it's red, the fluid in the system looked golden colour but it's empty now after a leak. In process of removal and refitting of Pas pipe need it done over the weekend. Thanks
  5. I've changed both front bearings now the noise remains, makes no difference if it's turning left or right coasting or in gear. It's not audible under 20mph I'd say and maybe quietens over 60. It does sound like something fouling but I can't make it out if it's from gearbox area or wheel. I also can't see or feel anything by turning the wheel by hand. I'm going to remove both wheels tonight and double check the calipers and disc backing plate, then sort out the camber and tracking. Whilst I'm at it I'll take a peek under the CV gators, the offending wheel bearing looked water damaged they were covered in rust.
  6. the car had been making a droning humming noise from the front left so today i changed the offending sides wheel bearing, the noise is still there. I wasnt convinced it was the wheel bearing as it had only been present since the mrs got her tracking done, ive had the cars tracking done a second time and the noise remains. any of you guys can help what i should be looking at next, drive shafts gearbox, gearbox oil? ive changed tyres front to back and possibly ill get it tracked again as i dont think any one adjusted from the strut to hub carrier, and as i found out on reassembly the noise got worse when i tewaked the camber from here, possibly putting more stress on the drive shaft and cv joints. car is arosa auc 1.0
  7. The rubber on the osf brake Flexi has perished and cracked which means I'd better change it. I've got a flaring kit and it does look as if the metal pipe will fail through disconnecting the Flexi so a couple of questions please. What type of brake connection is it, I know it's M10 but is it male or female. Will it take a bubble flare? The car is an 04 1.0 auc engine. I don't want the metal brake pipe to fail as it will mean a replacement, and the amount of rust on the caliper has me worried concerning the bleed screw. But hey ho!
  8. as title, after a drivers side osf wing for the arosa. in canica blue, big ask but im sure there is one out there. thanks
  9. creon

    Door won't open

    i broke it off in the end and replaced with one from scrappy, £10. tried everything apart from 12v to motor wanted a quick job and didnt want to break the loom really.👍
  10. creon

    Door won't open

    connecting 12v to the motor was my next move and yes there is a lot of information on a gogle on the subject, a bit too much! another option is to dremel cut and expose the plastic cog and turn it as if to operate the motor manually. i need a quick fix as its the mrs car and for some reason it always has issues. another question, i read that if i was to get a replacement that they are colour coded, and installing the wrong colour will result in another deadlock. is this true? cos i know of an arosa in the scrappy down the road, or an ebay lock for £20.
  11. Right the passenger door will not open from the inside or outside of the car, it seems that it won't unlock itself whilst all other doors do lock and unlock normally. I've tried all the obvious of tapping the lock, unlocking and locking, pushing against the door and disconnecting the power to that door. No joy. I noticed that the cable from the outside door handle to the lock was undone so I've also hooked it back on. Any suggestions please before I hack it open and replace the lock with second hand, if that's possible.
  12. I've cleaned the carbon brushes and helped them move more freely to make contact on the motor, seems to be working fine for now. Lithium greased the runners and rollers on the regulator as they didn't seem to be at fault. I'll try the same on the other motor now. Without soldering the brushes are not replaceable, seems a shame to bin something with such a minor issue esp regarding the cost of a new motor.
  13. I've searched the forum but see no definite answer, both windows on my arosa have been acting up. Not functioning and I can hear the motor click. The motor still clicks with the regulator disconnected. So I've removed the whole assembly motor and regulator, the regulator seems to be in good condition but I've opened the motor and found that the carbon brushes were 'seized' and wouldn't let The spring push them to make contact, also the plastic seemed a little molten. The motor whilst in operation does run hot with not much use there has also been a grinding like noise. What are the symptoms of a broken motor? I've now reassembled and although it hasn't cut out yet I now have to press the button several times to get the window up and down, I still need to check fuses. Any help would be appreciated as I don't think second hand motor is the way forward.
  14. on top EGR valve I have, on bottom EGR and engine im told i have by parts dealer one seat parts center didnt even realise that there was two egr valves on his diagram
  15. could someone please run through with me what the difference is between the engine codes on the 999 mpi, such as AER, ALD, ALL, ANV, ATE, AUC. Only the AUC as I believe had an electric controlled EGR valve. I have an 04 arosa with engine code AUC trying to obtain parts is not as easy as i thought as talking to vag parts dealer is like talking to brick wall. I need a gasket for the EGR which on my vehicle and other AUC engines including the polos are water cooled, not according to VAG whom have produce a diagram of an engine different to mine and are certain ive had an engine swap. on their diag the throttle body is on the side whilst on mine and other arosas the throttle body is in the middle of the engine at the back. I have given the part number of 030131503f which is printed on the EGR on my car, a simple internet search brings the correct EGR up and even ECP can identify the correct EGR for my car but not 3 VW parts dealers. its nearly broke into an argument with one !! Where could I buy the gaskets for the EGR as a separate item as mine is letting coolant out, plan b is to use a sealant or gasket material until I can decide to blank it off! any help would be appreciated
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