JoeyEunos

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About JoeyEunos

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  1. Welcome. We've beaten you to it and already started a thread for you it seems
  2. 10 days on and the underside of the 'box is still bone dry, having spent lots of time looking underneath various Lupo's I can confirm this is something of a rarity
  3. Usually you can determine the factory of origin using the VIN Here's a 'How To' robbed from elsewhere on the web.... The Vehicle Identification Number consists of 17 characters, either a number or letter. In identifying a particular vehicle only characters 7 to 17 are particularly relevant. The first 3 letters are the WMI, World Manufacturer Identifier. For VW's the characters are WVW. The W is for Germany and the VW is the manufacturers code. The country indicator is not necessarily the country of manufacture, this comes later on in the VIN. The 4th to 9th characters are the VDS, Vehicle Descriptor Section. This is used to identify vehicle type, model and body style. The first 3 characters of the VDS are not used for the european market and are therefore filled with the letter Z. Positions 7 & 8 on the VIN are for the model description and are either a number and a letter or both numbers. 1J denotes a Golf Mk4 and Bora, 1K denotes a Golf Mk5 and Golf Plus. Place 9 is for use in North American markets, so is also marked with a Z. The 10th - 17th characters are the VIS, Vehicle Identifier Section. The 10th character is the model year (not necessarily the calender year) in which the car was built. The 11th character denotes the plant of manufacture and is therefore of particular interest to many owners The numbers from 12 to 17 are the vehicles unique serial number. Model Years; A=1980 B=1981 C=1982 D=1983 E=1984 F=1985 G=1986 H=1987 J=1988 K=1989 L=1990 M=1991 N=1992 P=1993 R=1994 S=1995 T=1996 V=1997 W=1998 X=1999 Y=2000 1=2001 2=2002 3=2003 4=2004 5=2005 6=2006 7=2007 8=2008 9=2009 Plant of Manufacture; (list includes, VW, Audi, Seat, Skoda & Porsche plants) A=Ingolstadt-Germany B=Brussels-Belgium C=Taipei-Taiwan (1994>) C=Sao Bernardo do campo- Plant 4, Brazil D=Bratislava-Slovakia (1995>) D=Ipiranga-Brazil (1996 only) E=Emden-Germany F=Ipiranga & Resende-Brazil G=Steyr-Daimler Puch, Graz-Austria H=Hanover-Germany J=Jakarta-Indonesia (1998>) K=Osnabruck/Rheine-Germany (Karmann) L=Lago-Nigeria L=Leipzig-Germany (2001>) M=Puebla-Mexico N=Neckarsulum-Germany P=Anchieta-Sao Paulo, Brazil P=Mosel-Germany (1992>) R=Martorell-Spain (1996>) R=Resende-Brazil S=Salzgitter-Germany (1970-1975) T=Sarajevo-Yugoslavia (>1994) T=Taubate-Brazil T=Kvasiny-Czech Republic (1997>) U=Uitenhage-South Africa (1998>) V=Westmoreland-USA (1979-1989) V=Palmera-Portugal (1994>) W=Wolfsburg-Germany) X=Poznan-Poland (1995>) Y=Navara/Pamplona-Spain (1986>) Z=Zuffenhausen-Germany (1995 only) 0=Mlada/Boleslav-Czech Republic 1=Gyor-Hungary (1997>) 1=Mlada/Boleslav-Czech Republic 2=Shanghai-China (1998>) 3=FAW-VW-Changchun-China (1998>) 3=Mlada/Boleslav-Czech Republic 4=Curitiba-Brazil (1998>) 4=Mlada/Boleslav-Czech Republic 5=Kvasiny-Czech Republic 6=Kvasiny-Czech Republic 7=Vrchlabi-Czech Republic 8=Dresden-Germany (2000>) 8=Vrchlabi-Czech Republic (1991>) 9=Hino-Japan (Toyota) (1989-1997) 9=Sarajevo-Yugoslavia (2002>)
  4. Much as it pains me to admit it, you're right Always prefered the Arosa's front end.
  5. Projector headlights always seem like a good idea. A proper functional/useable mod.
  6. @lupogtiboy you have PM
  7. Looks like you're selling your Beetle Audi TT as well? I thought you loved that thing?
  8. It will be the first and last one I'm ever doing that's for sure With hindsight if there's a slight weep then better just to wipe off/top up the oil occasionally. Mine used to leave a tiny drip on my drive once fornight or so, nothing really. If I'd known the danger of scoring the shaft and what's involved to put that right, or had any idea of what a pain the seal would be to remove I wouldn't have bothered. The good news is, I've just been and had another look under the car this morning with a mirror/torch and both the shaft and gearbox are bone dry.
  9. That was certainly the message the VW techs relayed to me, that and pretty much half of all the ones they've removed have reulted in selector shaft damage and necessitated gearbox removal/opening to replace. By that stage it was too late, I'd punctured the old seal so it was going to have to be removed, none the less I wish I'd spoken to them first. Ah well, job jobbed and all's well that ends well eh?
  10. Yup. Came close to loosing my patience and giving up several times.
  11. Many hours spent today removing a selector seal that had welded itself in situ. Top tip to anyone thinking of having a go at this, think vary carefully before getting involved... .I'm sure when it goes well this is an easy job, but when it goes wrong... What a pain!
  12. Late response to this (I hadn't spotted it). Mk4's are in no way terrible I came to the Lupo after running a Mk4 1.4 Golf. I bought it for £600, absolutely nothing went wrong with it (Ever) and I sold it for £700 two years later. I found it to be utterly indestructible and frankly far superior to the Lupo in most ways hence my pining for another.
  13. Done and dusted, unfortunately the job turned into a complete nightmare. After 16 years and 132k the old seal had all but welded itself into the gearbox casing After hours of trying to release it I lost my temper and tried to simply bash the new seal in on top of the old but no luck. Of course by this stage I'd punctured the old seal and by now it was leaking oil fairly badly it was going to have to come out. After a trip to VW to pick up another seal (I'd damaged the replacemement I had trying to hammer it in over the old one) I thought I may as well pick the brains of one of the techs there for tips in how to remove the stuck item only to be cheerfully told that they advise to leave well alone unless the leaking is catastrophic in it's proportions, and that they find that in 50% of the ones they do the selector shaft gets scored/damaged and require gearboxes to be opened to replace Returned home, spent another two hours and broke three seperate seal picks, two of which left the metal ends that had broken off in the now mangled seal. About half an hour after this and after having invented several new swear words I eventually got the seal out after drilling, screwing in a self tapper and carefully/slowly pulling out with pliers (Third attempt.) Here's a pic of the offending article... I carefully looked over the selector shaft before fitting the new seal and all looked well, touch wood still no leaks yet either. I'm afraid all plans to write a 'How to' on this dissolved once I'd realised what a pig of a job this had become, but I'd offer a tip to future Lupo bodgers who may stumble across this thread, drain the gearbox oil first! In circumstances where to old part refuses to budge a steady dripping of gearbox oil through the perforated seal makes removal much more difficult.
  14. I'd want to see close up pics of the bottom of the rear arches/sills before traveling, but might be worth a cheeky road trip to have a butchers if they look good? I'm still slightly gutted you didn't buy the 'Time warp' (43k?) SDI I sent you the Gumtree link for last year (Also gutted that I didn't buy it TBH)
  15. Oh no Just spotted this thread. Sorry to hear about your gearbox fella. TBH from what I remember you mentioned your car had covered over 220k and you're 100k on from your last rebuild... Not bad going really, given new cars deprecate by £1k+ a year having to pay to have a' box rebuilt every 100k seems like the lesser of the evils comparatively, especially with £30 tax and 60+ MPG? If I were you I'd consider doing the same again (Rebuild) given any second hand 'box you buy could well do the same again in short order? I've pretty much resigned myself to the fact that if/when mine eventually gives up the ghost that's the route I'll take TBH rather than risking the time/money fitting a spurious second hand item. Best of luck whatever you choose to do chap.