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indie

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indie last won the day on May 29 2017

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    Male
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    kent

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  • Currently Driving
    Lupo GTI

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  1. On the subject of cheap front discs, mine is still bloody warping the damn things. New callipers and wheel bearings. I'm going to try something more expensive and observe a proper bed in procedure. I love the sh*t out my Lupo, but it's become hard work lately. Not sure if to take a punt on those TRW shocks.
  2. That's a good question for our man in the know.
  3. Thanks @lupogtiboy this is great info. I believe I ended up with the economy shocks for the rear. When I bought it the dampers back there were completely buggered. I don't want to skimp on things for the car, but I'm happy to keep it standard and it's no longer a no expense spared project. In the past I've spent thousands (like we all have) treating cars to only the bests parts going, but ultimately this is my daily so I'd just like it to behave how they intended from the factory - no more or less. FWIW these were the one's the local parts place seem to recommend. TRW seemed to be quite highly regarded, but they seem very cheap and while they are listed for the vehicle I'm not sure if they will work. https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/trw/2197998
  4. Hello gang, Does anybody know if the OE damper for the GTI was oil or oil/air based? I'm going to replace the fronts on the old girl, but there are so many after market (OE fit) options. Looking at some TRW's (JHM185T), which seem to be a standard replacement, but no real info on these. Cheers
  5. Progress thread? Be happy to try keeping one going on the back burner
  6. OK gang, so to close the loop on this. In my case I'd say without any doubt the problem was a dodgy coil pack. Swapping to a new crank sensor didn't help, although it was the most logical first step, because the ECU kept logging P0321 35-10. It wasn't until some time later that I read that a crank sensor code can show if there are other underlying issues. From the Ross Tech Wiki.. When an engine will not start due to mechanical (spark/fuel/compression/timing) related issues it is not uncommon to set a false G28 fault codes due to extended cranking with a no-start condition. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16705/P0321/000801 RE the emergence of check engine light, that was down to a cheap HAAS cam sensor that I replaced while I was at it - you know, for good measure. The fault code was specific to this sensor, so I had a very good idea what was going on. Turns out that was a waste of money and putting the old cam sensor back sorted that problem almost straight away. My coil pack and leads are HAAS and those seem fine. Hopefully this post is useful for anybody coming back later. Thanks for all help above. Gonna be sticking around, got a few jobs to do on the car. Want to keep it on the road TLDR - A crank sensor warning can show, even if the problem is elsewhere. Try the crank sensor first, if no joy, check the wiring and start looking elsewhere. If it cuts out at random and won't restart, well it might be worth looking at the coil pack.
  7. Oh crap yeh, that is almost French thinking. Haha. Check engine light came on this morning. Bloody thing. Gonna investigate this afternoon. If it's the same code I'll clear it and keep an eye on it.
  8. haha now it has basically all new ignition stuff (plugs, leads, coil) and crank + cam sensors. It feels healthy now under your foot. Not a huge difference, but noticeable. I guess 126k will do that to parts.
  9. Thanks Rich. OK so, here is the damage... As expected VW absolutely robbed me for looking at it. None the less, it was actually quite a useful exercise because I now have a list of unrelated jobs to do (some a little pedantic, some not). TBH though, since I'd like to keep the car, this is fairly helpful. Anyway, when I got home I took some of the loom out, but it all looks to be in good nick. In a final act of desperation I walked over to my local motor factors and picked up 1) a new coil pack 2) a new cam sensor And guess what... Just drive 100 miles and not only does it go like a stabbed rat, no cutting out, no nonsense, back to it's old self - touch wood
  10. When I might get it back tomorrow I might remove it and unwrap the tape/protective gubbins. I hope it should be possible to see where it is snagged, what do you reckon?
  11. True, but it's very intermittent... I mean like I'm not totally sure it's that. I had hoped not to have to take the entire engine loom out, but it looks like that might be the stage I'm at... Rich was right about finding an auto electrician.
  12. Yup, VW haven't got a scooby too what's up with it. lol
  13. @Rich haha oh jeez - well I will learn the hard way I guess. Funnily enough it shat itself at precisely the moment I had to drive through Westgate tower in Canterbury. The bin men helped me push it out of the way in rush hour traffic, then it fired back up after I rustled around with the loom. @lupogtiboy ah.. bugger, so maybe it's wiring up there. Those little wires are especially frail up top and over to the cam sensor. I love how G28 kinda means something's knackered, but VW sort of use it interchangeably for crank/cam sensor, although clearly they are not the same thing. haha
  14. Yeah I think thats fair Rich, I just had to do something and they're down the road.. so if no joy, then I'll have to find a mobile auto electrician. Pete, good shout. The loom really looks fine, but I know that doesn't necessarily mean it is.
  15. Agree. I expect you guys nailed it RE wiring, but lets see.
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