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Sausage

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Everything posted by Sausage

  1. You got ABS? Make sure the carrier sliders are both moving free. Check the pads for contamination and even wear, check the disk run out (need the retaining screw for the disk present, wheel off, on a stand with engine ticking over in 1st will do with mk1 eyeball and a finger for feel or a dial gauge of you have one) if there's run out remove disk and make sure no crap is under it preventing it from seating right.
  2. Was it like that before the new ball joints or just since fitting them? i.e everything tightened back up. If it feels like one wheel then swap the wheels around and see if it changes it. Otherwise it is basically look for seized / sticky carrier sliders or pistons etc. you can check run out on disks too.
  3. Something isnt right there, assuming it is manual does the clutch pedal rest lower than brake pedal? Can you get 1st and reverse easily? Where is the clutch bite point (when the revs drop a bit and car starts to creep) on the pedal, at the bottom, in the middle or near the top? Pedal box failure is a common problem on these so may as well look for that. Better to start your own thread really though.
  4. http://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=6389 HT leads, throttle body, blocked egr valve, are the usual suspects.
  5. My money is on it being a family of badgers stuck in the engine bay.
  6. TDi forums about 1.9 sdi: Originally Posted by turbo johan I've done quite some of this kind conversions. Easiest is to put on a GT15 wg turbo from a AHU/AGR and put wg on about 0.6/0.8 bar boost. Run no ic and put in some new sw. Power goes from 68 to 100/105 hp on stock injectors. You don't need boost regulation or a MAF an MAP sensor. Works good. If you want more than that you need different gearbox and flywheel/clutch! I've done a few sdi/tdi gearbox conversions works quite good but need some parts; axles, fw/clutch, box, shifting cable, conversion to hydro clutch pedal or use T4 clutch cable. (but clutch pedal won't fit cable easy). My girlfriend drives a sdi polo who drove the 105 hp easy conversion for about 40K km's. Than we did VNT17, R520, 11mm, longest 5 speed gearbox, stronger clutch with smf, 2,5" exhaust, 3 bar MAP and custom tune. It runs on 190 hp and 450 Nm now. It's quite a quick little car It ran 14.5 sec 1/4 mile @ 155 km/h (with 175 hp w/o 11mm pump) I just wired up the N75 and MAP sensor into stock ECU works fine. Johan cant find any 1.7 conversion though or Lupo so far.
  7. I'd like to see this done, not sure how much the ecu does on the SDI, if it is reading maf and map and IQ then you will need a remap. Also intercooler.
  8. i think i'd be looking at siphoning at least half that mix back out and brimming it with diesel again to get the dilution to better levels. The mix you take out can then be used next tank full. TDI have PD injectors so i'd be trying not to **** with them if poss.
  9. Loctite works for this, tricky to keep the shaft splines and yoke splines grease free for the loctite though.
  10. Nice one. For comparison it took 6 heavy blows with a hammer to split mine with the knuckle in a vice, that would be tricky to do on the car with the drive shaft in the way and swinging sideways with the hammer while laying on the ground. I think I'll get a fork as well.
  11. That sounds like an excellent project.
  12. Penetrating fluid, heat and hammer shocks are all i use, but those bottom joints are very fat in the metal so i think the amount of hammering goes way up as a result. Steering joints comes out in 2 good clouts, those bottom b4stards do not. I dont use splitting forks (i dont have any for starters) as they tend ruin the boots when i used them years ago, but for this I'd be tempted into buying one.
  13. Blow torch, try not to ruin cv boot though. Or buy a splitting fork, or else admit defeat (i did as no splitting tools) and remove the whole knuckle (via 3 bolts) and do it in a vice. Drive shaft nut undoes easy with someone pressing the brake if the wheel is off, You need a long tube on your t bar. Edit: What Pete said, you wont lever it out...
  14. I have play on the splines of both my drive shafts and the outer cv joints, bought new joints thinking i needed them but the actual play and clicking is between the yoke and the shaft splines with slight wear evident on the splines. A2 guys say there was a factory fix of using paste or loctite on the splines. Anyone heard of this?
  15. I couldnt easily split mine with a hammer, undid the 3 bolts instead but i was removing knuckles so it didnt matter. If you are replacing joints you can be more aggressive with heat or use a splitting fork as the dust boots getting ruined wont matter.
  16. That's not something to be proud of, I had a car fall on me in my blasé youth because I got complacent. Got lucky, mainly because i wasnt under the engine. Op as said already just add pressure to the joint with a jack or bar to stop it rotating while doing it up .
  17. Photobucket were total a$$holes about this and basically broke the threads on many forums and didnt even make it easy for forum mods to rebuild threads if wanted. Anyway here are the pics: http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/lupohunty/library/?sort=3&page=1 You will need adblocker because photobucket ruined their own site by being ad whores. Adblocker is currently blocking 66 ads and climbing on that link.
  18. Yeah I didnt word that very well, if the fuel pressure is sufficient it wont prime the fuel, so if you have just turned it on and it has primed it wont do it again straight after, but if it has been sitting for a while it should do it every time.
  19. Listen for the in tank pump sloshing fuel to the engine when ignition on before start. Should do it every time. If it doesnt start in 3 seconds of cranking turn off and on again, does it then start? is that cut out at the exact same location every day? Could be some strong emf or other noise there maybe?? Cam sensor should be next on the list though. You might want to find the ecu and unplug and reconnect the main connectors a few times to clean the contacts as well. Look for green corrosion in the contacts and wires near the plugs (individual wires will be very stiff) Injector looms are prone to breaking down as they get a lot of heat stress and sit in oil, but that usually presents as misfires, but should be on your list to check over.
  20. you sure vagcom isnt coming up with anything? 2nd vote for cam sensor.
  21. What do you mean "same spot"? You mean a geographical location?
  22. Sausage

    Tdi Breaking

    Can you list what bits you have left? Cheers
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