Sausage

I've not had a slave off of these gearboxes, I have an 02S box which is almost identical to the 02J on the garage floor with a slave on it, but i've not taken one off or put one on and if it is as ridiculously fiddly to get it lined up and working properly as carrera-gt says then it's definitely worth a closer look. There's a hell of a dimple in the clutch arm and a round rod end, why cant it just self centre?

Sounds good. Stick it back in, what does the pedal do and feel like? if you press it slowly you should feel it doing it's job with a few changes in pressure as it disengages the clutch. if the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance then something is wrong. You could fire up the engine and try the gears (you might need oil in gearbox), can you select reverse without grinding? If so the clutch is disengaging, if not it isnt. Did you change the clutch because of a problem with it or just because you were there doing the gearbox? The only things left I can think of really are that the gearbox isnt fully home and flush on the block, the clutch is the wrong one, or the clutch arm pivot in the bell housing needs looking at.

It sounds very coincidental for the clutch master cylinder to be shot, but if you've eliminated most other things then investigate that. Pull off the slave still plumbed in and secure the rod somehow to stop it popping out, a bit of wood and cable ties or something. Then press the pedal slowly and see if the piston pushes hard against the wood and how the pedal feels, it should be hard if the rod is against a hard stop.

The clutch release bearings are the same? and correctly fitted?

£50? You were done.

No, just carefully lever up the switch holder part from either the front or the back, i cant remember which. Mine is a loose fit in my door card as it has been in and out so many times over the years the cardboard hole has worn.

I'd clean up the rusted clutch arm (lick of paint if you fancy) and slave cylinder and use those with the matching gearbox and new clutch and then get the gearbox bolted up, bleed the slave and see what you have then. Edit: Your slave looks bigger diameter and thicker rod, it may well be that the cylinder inside is the same but it doesnt look like it from this angle. If you are satisfied they are the same then you could skip this, but if the cylinder is different diameter inside then the travel will be different. I assume the bearing is the same?

This is a different gearbox isnt it? is it the same codes or something else and are there any differences you can see with it, especially the clutch arm and bearing? You are also most likely using your original slave cylinder, make sure yours and the one on the gearbox (if it came with one) are the same (rod length etc) Thinking about it I was harping on about making sure the plate was the right way around because last few clutches i've done were dmf and they are similar one side to the other so much more prone to being installed wrong, smf clutches arent so would be pretty damn hard to get them the wrong way around anyway . I wouldnt mix those clutches as they appear to have differences and you will just add an extra complication.

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/power_transmission/gearbox_002/clutch_control/repairing_the_clutch/ Spring cage (the sticky outy bit with springs in) towards pressure plate according to that, so double check that it is (was) the right way round.

Friction plate has a few differences too. This may not be a problem in itself and may just be different manufacturers doing it slightly differently, but confirm the part numbers and that it is for your engine / gearbox. i'd also slip the friction plate over the input shaft on the gearbox and make sure the splines are correct as a precaution. There should be some marking on the friction plate saying which way faces out Also check that the clutch release arm and bearing move and behave normally and that the slave cylinder actually connects to the release arm somehow (rod or whatever).

You mean the double switches in the drivers door? Pull out the switch holder and then swap the black and tan block connectors over on the switches. My drivers side switch is fubar so i swapped mine over so that the new passenger switch works my drivers side window, i reach across the car and do the passenger door switch if i want that window down. I will get another switch but this does for now.

You'd have to throw money at it and it's just cheaper and easier to stick a 1.4 16v in and double the power reliably. A turbo conversion would be the best route to add power, I'd like to see it done on the 1.0 too.

Not 100% but it might need glow plugs. if it's flashing while driving then you need to get the codes read as it has a fault.

Sorry lost the plot, if it's just flanges then you can just hold one in one hand and (attempt to) turn the other with the other hand as they are close together LOL

2 bolts in the flange and a bar between them will lock it against the gearbox or something, no need for the drive shafts. You need to lock one because of the diff.

Depends on your offset and tyre profile and how low you are. You dont say what size wheels. I run 15x7 Team Dynamics Pro Race 3 with ET35 and 195/50/15, Needed slight roll of the rear arches with a baseball bat on lip for about 4 inches directly above the wheel. Your 8 inch width may cause you issues and will probably need a full arch roll.

Clutch will need bleeding most likely if you've had the slave off at all, there's no servo assistance on the clutch. Stick it in 1st and lock one hub (if no wheels on it still), jam the pedal down with a bit of wood and then go see if the free hub turns, if so then the clutch is disengaged, let the pedal up then go see if the hub is locked in gear, if so the clutch is engaged. If you havent fitted the drive shafts then do the same with the drive shaft flanges instead. Friction plate only goes on one way and will have markings to indicate which way round it goes, if you have doubts about it checking that and it still seems funny then it might be that.

You need vcds to see what s going on really otherwise you will be stabbing around in the dark. Read (and save) and clear the fault codes and see what they all refer to. You should be able to see the immobiliser status too.

Sometimes your local engineering shop who builds engines etc will be the cheapest place for bits like rings / pistons even gaskets sets too, but your mileage will vary. I'd be interested to know why those rings broke, have a good look at the piston too, ring lands etc. Detonation comes to mind, so could be a duff injector or easy start being used.

Chriso_dude you really need to find out what the error code was the garage found. I'm guessing it is this one or similar otherwise they wouldn't have been so interested in the SOI solenoid: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17656/P1248/004680 Get yourself a cheap kkl vagcom lead (£5) if you have a spare laptop and you can read and clear codes yourself and do a lot of other things with it. Without the codes or the ability to easily read and clear them you'll be stabbing around in the dark throwing money at it.

You're thinking of tdi, you are correct about the stop solenoid, it has nothing to do with the timing or injectors. The top wire in the pic above goes to the stop solenoid (fuel shut off valve), the timing solenoid (start of injection valve) is at the bottom.

Get a cheap kkl vcds cable so you can do your own diagnostics and fault code reading clearing. Throttle body reset comes to mind: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

Edit: bottom wire thru white clip in pic below should be timing solenoid (it should be under the fuel injection outlets and have wires going to it) then it could well be that, but chances are it would be like it all the time unless it's sticking or has poor wiring / signal. Your problem here is that you have to pay people to diagnose and repair it, so it's best to start with the cheapest options or else the one that solves it in one go. Cheap options: DIY find, remove, clean and inspect the timing solenoid, refit or find a new one if it's sensibly priced (say under £40). If it's any more then a 2nd hand pump looks appealing, see if there are alternatives that fit or you could pillage the solenoid off like this one:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-sdi-diesel-injector-pump-/322100815556?hash=item4afeb466c4:g:aEIAAOSwZAtXJNGR, you'll still want a new fuel filter if your looks years old and probably do a diesel purge.

And when it happens is it loud diesel knock and smoke from the exhaust and loss of power for a short time then back to normal or is it for a long time? If smoke, what colour? Fuel filter will be obviously new if replaced as it is silver metal part and replaced whole, so if it hasnt been done then do it. You might have water in the filter, open the drain until clean fuel comes out.

So is this problem since the cambelt change or was it fine for a lot of miles? Defo check that a new fuel filter was fitted, I'd also have a good look at the cambelt tension and timing before doing much else to it as well. Any garage doing diagnostics on the engine should really ave checked that tbh. Edit to add: an intermittent fault would seem to point away from any timing issues and point to injector(s) mind. Time for a diesel purge probably.