mk2

Checked the air filter? Do you have a diagnostics cable or bluetooth thingy? Rich usually means ECU thinks it's a cold engine, or it's getting more air than it really is.

Sounds ok! Ok, so it sounds like you have a dashboard rattle or something in the coin tray, but nothing bad.... video of engine maybe?

What's not right? Anything we can help you get this iconic car back to new condition again?

Nice. It's been looked after

Yeah, the oil looks like it is running down this pipe, coming from somewhere else... try and trace it further up. Inside that pipe in the pic is just exhaust gas (if it is the EGR valve). My guess would be the valve (cam) cover seal is leaking.

But tax discs are soo cool. I mean a tax disc is now considered art. Imagine giant tax discs as wheels. Neat.

How thin was the original clip? And how many miles had the box done? Just curious to know how much wear there was over time. Apparently that clip should be just very slightly loose when replacing it. And make sure that fifth is easy to engage before sealing up. You need to adjust the fork so it's just loose. stick an electric drill on the input shaft once you've chucked some oil in there. Should be silent. If still noisy, could be that another bearing has gone or is going. Now's the time to refurb it if you're concerned. Parts are about £120 plus labour.

Could be a leaky valve? Need more symptoms description TBH. Has the cam belt ever snapped or engine overheated in the past? Does the engine warm up normally (quickly)? Is the car used mainly on very short runs?

Sounds like a misfire...? Not much power as well? Running on 3 not 4.

Wheels worth more than my Lupo... ah, if only I had the cash. They are nice though.

You can just pressure bleed it through?! I thought that's the usual method.... especially with ABS pumps when doing brakes.

Get one of those pressure bleed kits. Or stick a schrader valve in a spare reservoir cap

Interesting. Completely agree on gbox lube. But I've only ever encountered one duff PAS pump fail. And in a mk2. But i think I must be the only person ever who flushes the PAS system. And i hang a magnet in the reservoir. Curious what it collects over time. Dexron 2. Hmm. Penzoil (is it 768? -can't remember) is better. As is Amsoil. Odd fact of the day... (or so I've been told) JCB type 46 hydraulic fluid (the most common in all plant) is vegetable oil based so when it leaks it doesn't cause an environmental disaster (100L in 20 seconds).

I wonder if it's possible to use the tripod system in an SDI. Not that it needs it. Only ever had to change outers so far on mine. My gearbox guru chap told me the exact same about the older mk1 = 085 similarities. I had noticed a few similarities on the outsides, like the covers, but yeah, it is interesting. Makes me wonder why they went all mad on the type of gearbox lube then. Nought wrong with EP75W90 gear oil. Or synthetic equiv. Oh, and i just used an Audi 100 clutch plate in one of my SDIs.... only difference on close examination between the latest 2010 plate and the 1980 plate was the anti shock springs being slightly fatter. Maybe friction material too (old stuff containing asbestos). I reckon the mechanical guys at VAG must just have a giant warehouse, lego style, bin of bits they pick from when building new cars. Like everyone on here already knows, the give away is usually the first three digits of a part number. So many 191 parts in a Lupo! Handy for me with my mk2s...

Yeah, and I thought nobody else had noticed! it makes me wonder why they didn't use tripod instead of CV joints. Just look at the angle when on full lock left. Do a drift at speed with full lock... clunk, bang. Thinking about it- isn't it the same for all 085 boxed Lupos/Arosas?

There's a diesel one...

Something is very wrong somewhere. You shouldn't need to do that. Wrong outer cv joint? Wrong wheel bearing? Is the little plastic end stop in place on the drive shaft, next to the cone spring washer? (Inside the cv joint) Ah... did you ever rebuild the outer cv joint? Maybe the spider was replaced the wrong way round (taper on spline edge towards plastic spacer/washer thing). That would kick everything out by about 5-7mm???

Pics time... you could get maybe £600 if u fixed a few of the obvious bits. A professional 5h interior valet may help for £40ish?

Those little things are quick/easy/cheap to fix. The main things that will affect price is the interior condition (rips? Stains? Missing clips type thing?), exterior condition (rust anywhere? Dents? Cracks) and mechanical condition (engine, gearbox, suspension, exhaust). Mechanical stuff is generally easy to do... between £400 - £1200?

Front subframe needs to be moved a tiny amount if the caster is out. Right side needs to go forward. No idea how to easily work out by how much. I'd try about 2 mm to start. I s'pose you could measure everything then do the geometry maths....

You should take him for a ride in your loop. He'd think it is a fairground ride! Mustangs are big cars. I first thought that this'd be a story about fuel economy...

Don't forget the low profile tyres.

Do what i do... go on ebay.de germany, use google translate and ask someone over there if they'd be happy to strip the material off their barely used passenger seat. Send it over using myhermes.de for 18 euros. Refit to your frame. Ta da! Driver's seat like brand new again in matching cloth pattern. Prices are usually about 50 euros. While you're at it, get a 3L steering wheel for 20 euros.

What's the outer joint like?

Are your diff bearings ok? Just wondering if the diff flanges may have moved a bit...? But you'd hear the whine! Have you ever moved the front subframe- might be out? Just thinking aloud. Oem wishbones? Yeah, must be engine mounts. Correct shafts?