mk2

Sounds like yiu've done everything right. What condition was the sump magnet and filter in?

@Rich as next MP for Durham? Now the big Q is "what would @mscherryviolet like us to do?". And then again what is realistic? Independent thought and all that...

If the misfire goes away and everything runs nicely, then the CEL will go out after a few days. You could clear it, but won't make any difference. Lupos don't have a limp mode.

That's up to you @Rich. When's that SDI going to be ready...? Of course, you're right @mscherryviolet 👍🏻🥂🎄. But still, cars cost money to keep on the road. I budget for £1000 a year plus fuel. I suppose that could be arranged too What should I do @Rich?

Depends on lots of things... but right now in this crazy market, perhaps £1500? No less than £1100. It'll be less than newer cars, not because of condition but road tax. And if anything needs sorting, like lock (£50). Paint not critical, as it's an old car. Why get rid? Fix her up and keep it for a few more years. See if you can post pics of the outside, inside and engine bay. There are always members on here looking for well kept Lupos/Arosas. Plus points for new drivers- low insurance, low running costs, low maintenance costs, relatively reliable and quite economical. Oh, and very easy to drive.

Becs needs your car... @mscherryviolet

Interesting one. Hmm. Could be anything. My first thought was fuel filter air leak (the two little O rings) but the system is pressurised by the in-tank fuel pump. So not that, if you can hear it whirring away when you first switch on. More likely an electrical issue. Ignition switch? Power relay under fuse box? Possible loom fault near the big round plug at the side of the engine (if your version has it). Possibly loose crank sensor or plug?

I have "elephant snorkle" mods on every engine I own. Even my lawn mower. Sump gases are so bad for an engine it's crazy. Simple length of 20mm cable flex conduit from the breather outlet down towards the chassis rails under the car cures all evils. A bicycle handlebar bung works a treat to block the airbox inlet hole. To make the car run leaner is tricky, because the ECU is monitoring the O2 sensor, checking the mix all the time while driving. Unless you make yourself a O2 emulator circuit, so you can forcibly trick the ECU to make the mix richer or leaner. Could try a small gap somehwere on the vacuum side. Perhaps even one of the vacuum lines? I guess you might be able to let some air in bit by bit (when it's warmed up), until it throws a code.

Are there a lot of blow by gasses from the sump? Lots of oil mist getting sucked in will increase CO levels. High CO usually means not enough air to burn all the hydrocarbons. So either too rich a fuel mix, not enough air or additional hydrocarbons from another source (like evap canister which Lupo doesn't have or oil mist gasses from the sump). Running rich is often demanded by the ECU if it thinks the engine is cold. A rich mixture makes a cold engine run smoother. Think 'choke'... Thus the temp sensor as a good candidate for swapping. Swapping the cat will only be a short term fix. I reckon that the cat is fine. It just needs purging (run lean for a bit). It's probably 'full'.

Today I replaced a front wheel bearing after only 65k miles. I originally replaced it only 8 years ago. And after a test drive realised that the other also needs doing. Par for the course I guess. They always last only 65k miles. Another 3h work when it stops raining. Bushes last longer, but only if they're OEM. If you buy the lower control arms complete with unbranded bushes, I find that they never last very long. The lower ball joint I only replaced 14 months ago. And it was loose so I swapped it for a spare I already had. And I used to think the Comline brand was better than most... Trying to get a warranty swap. Two year warranty and all that.

The Up is a smart little car, with some nice features. I like the Seat and Skoda versions better though (different tailgates). The main thing that struck me when I test drove both the basic and the gti is that it feels lighter. It's not, but feels it. Jittery. I guess a bit like the difference between a mk6 and mk2 golf. The mk2 feels like it's glued to the road but doesn't handle as well as a mk6! Odd.

I wouldn't. I had a rat bite through the same type of nylon fuel line on a mk4 golf. You really want to replace it. It is the exact same type of hose as on many other vdubs/seats. Only that the length is different.

ThreaD?

Seasons greetings! 🎄👋🏻🥂🎉🎂

Using standard parts wont fit, because the bearings are different. In theory, if you could find different bearings, then you'd need to swap the CV joints (the splined bit is different too). Rears easier. All round the brakes would need work too. Then you'll have wheel offset issues, as the wheel wells are small. Personally, I'd just swap the standard 13 or 14" rims to something interesting...

Yep. Everyone else give @Rich a plus point

Yeah sounds like you still have an electrical fault. Not the sensor. Ok to drive as much as you like. The ECU will simply follow an "open loop" map. So might use a little more (or less!) fuel. Same as it does on a cold engine when the O2 sensor hasn't warmed up yet.

No. There's a fault somewhere... Amazed that you retrieved a hex driver from INSIDE the throttle body! Smoke from the EGR vent is just where the air is allowed in to fight against the engine vacuum. It's used as an equaliser. One side of the EGR diaphragm is vacuum, the other atmospheric pressure. A bit like how a brake booster works.

You really want to get the exact same that were in there. They're actually pretty good (blaupunkt or philips). Speakers from Bora, Golf or Passat also fit straight in, as they have the same connector. Most breakers yards have lots. Or ebay... Just make sure the plug is the same, else you'll be cutting, crimping and soldering. I've tried quite a few different brands and aftermarket speakers and I personally think the OEM work very well with a standard hifi. And while fixing stuff, get a new blower motor resistor. They're not expensive and your car will actually warm up faster if you have the fan on low. When the fan is on high, the cold air doesn't have much time to warm up before it gets pushed into the car... It's a common fault for them to fail in most vdubs of that era.

Looks most excellent. I like it a lot. Whats the front suspension travel like compared to standard? What I mean, is did you change the lower coil seat on the shock, or is the spring seat just a bit lower on the Imprezza (lowering the front). Only wondering how it deals with things like potholes and speed bumps. I've been wanting to lower one of mine (on air, but OMG the price...), but I want the same ride quality. Even with standard setup, when there's 4 of us in the car the thing bottoms out against the bump stops.

You'll break the engine doing that... i wrote: >>>engine on, but not running<<< Not familiar with the D8, so you'll have to explore till you find it- in there should be an option to watch the live throttle data measurements. It'll either tell you readings in volts, typically between 0.4-4.6 ish, or in % 0-100. And if you have a graphing function, you could display the data on there: As you slowly press the throttle pedal from off to full to the floor, you should see a smooth increase in readings.

That is seriously low, and you're not on air like Ray or Pete. Any half shaft to chassis denting going on? You said you didn't notch, so that must be very close or you take speed bumps with extreme care! Yep, those pads look cooked. Happened to me a year ago too. One of the pads separated from the steel backer and spun into the gap between the pad backer and the caliper, like a wedge. Scary too as I was "enthusiatically" stopping at a T junc when my brake pedal sunk to the floor with a bang. Nursed it a few yards before checking, and all appeared to be fine because the caliper simply expanded with fresh fluid. Drove another 10 miles on an A road at 60 and when stopping the air filled with a burning smell... The disc was actually glowing cherry red. 😦 who is the blue one? Are they on here? Nice

Both of those are insane! Love it! Big ups to you mate. what wheels and tyre setup have you on the Rosa? More like rubber bands.

Not sure on the details of your exact unit, but typically, there are 6 pins. Two go directly to the motor. The other 4 (maybe 6) are a +ve feed and and earth, the other two are the returns, one increases as the throttle opens and the other decreases as the throttle opens. Basically a failsafe system. There are two potentiometers connected in parrallel (internally), but in reverse if you see what I mean. I wonder if maybe the earth line is high resistance, or maybe the positive feed is being dragged down by some other sensor elsewhere. EGR circuit? I don't think the problem has anything to do with the throttle body.

A mk4 golf country (sort of)! Cool. Real or photoshop? Can't believe anything you see anymore! So the shocks fit the front. Exact same hub carrier mounting holes, spring plate height and shock travel. Interesting. I wonder if Imprezza hubs work. (Schedules next trip to breakers in diary...) Yeah, i dunno how Demon tweaks do their springs so cheap. Bought quite a few from them over the years.