mk2

No, because you already know the answer

Ah, ok. Then it sounds like a classic case of the lock microswitches having gone out to lunch. Try swapping the lock mech assembly. Or better still, fit a cheap RKE system and bypass all the key thing.

Yeah, mine's like the photo as well.

I think you can actually program the thing to do that via VCDS. But never done it. @Skezza knows the central locking system inside out. If you turn the key to unlock it again, after you've already unlocked it, does it open both doors and boot? I've seen Golfs, Polos and Boras with that wierd feature.

The rivet connecting the handbrake lever to the shoe gets rusty and stiff. Remove it, then add a tiny drop of oil and work it in until it's nice and loose. But dirt inside the drum can build up and cause noise...

Yeah, I know what I think has happened because I once did the same... If the release bearing gearbox internals are the same as mine, you can slide out the shaft that engages with the release forks. But you can slide it back in, in a different position. So the bit that engages with the cable will be in the wrong place to get maximum leverage. I think that makes sense? The way it's supposed to be- is when the release bearing is just resting on the pressure plate springs (fins), the lever that the cable hooks onto should be just below centre. So at half clutch, the lever is at 90 degrees to the cable- and at full clutch just above centre. So easy to show, but difficult to explain! If that's ok, then it'll be either the cable (wrong) or the pedal end. My first thought was pedal box, but you say that's ok.

Yeah, @Rich might be able to confirm... I ordered some recently for my SDI (regular, not GTi ball joints), and what turned up were exactly like the left one in @matty by's pic. And when I did a part number lookup, it said that they were the standard fitment for Polo 6N flavour. So maybe regular Polo 6N ball joints are the same as for Lupo GTi. There's no hole. And the thread is M12, not M10. The cone is also bigger for GTi.

Someone has been very busy. Impressive given that it's not summer yet. Usually a summertime job. I find biological laundry detergent works really well on fabric, left for about 20 mins then wet vac it all off. Then spray with a garden sprayer (clean water with a touch of disinfectant) as a final rinse before vac'ing it all off again. Looking very nice. 👍🏻

Tim & Tom fabric. Very posh. And with factory fit sunroof! A few paint patches to sort and she'll be like new. Nice car. 👍🏻 You could remove the remaining bump strips (use teeth floss in a sawing action), then gently rub off the remaining glue. Or use white spirit and a rag, but either way it's time consuming. Lots of tea breaks. Then a good wax. More pics please.

Yeah, I find that the bearings slide in/out with between 3-4t of force. But i like to seat them at 10t just to be sure that they're square. Take care when fitting the splined hub bit to the bearing inside hole, so the two halves dont split. Otherwise, pretty standard stuff.

What was the answer, which will help others...? 👍🏻

The letter at the end of a VAG part number often means a design change. The beginning of the number usually means the model or design platform. So it might be different. Ask for photos.

What a fine specimen. Gorgeous. Mmmm. Really really good job @Malcolm Any pics of yours @Rich?

Not me, but I know of 3 Lupo people in your area. @battlebus is my top candidate who'd probably enjoy a local meet?

With starship milage, it must have had the oil pump chain changed already. Else it's a time bomb... 1.4TDi chains usually let go around 120k miles. That'd be my first question. @RAB sold his last year I think.

Yeah. Check out the how-to. Wheel, tyre sizes and offset calcs. Nice looking car.

Nice rims! Can't see much wrong- could be the reflections. Try local breakers, but you can still buy a new wing online. Have a search. You could simply take the new wing round to a local body shop along with a six pack of beer and ask if they could paint it for you for a few $. Being black, they'll probably have a tea cup of paint hanging around somewhere. You could prep the RHS headlamp as well, which they could re-lacquer with a couple of thin coats of 2k clear. (There's a how-to). And the bumper. You'll need to replace with same type. And probably glue the indicator panel back to the wing because you can't get the clips (or you can, but expensive). Welcome to CL

Yeah, i was outside working in it. Wasn't fun.

Clever. And by leaving the two slots to the side (next to the one you made), if you ever find the real 3 legged caps they'll pop back in no problem. Great solution!

Me me me... I'll PM you.

Looks complete though, which is handy. There are a lot of us on here that are very envious. A Raven Blue GTi. No words.

If the clutch pedal is resting lower than the brake pedal, most likely the pedal box, not the cable... See the pedal box thread. Looking nice and shiney! Inside looks near mint. Good job cleaning it.

Same as mk4 Golf right side, rear door, top hinge. I had to do one of mine last year. Exact same problem. Easy to remove in a breakers yeard with spline tool/triple square. Very tight though.

Yeah, any equivalent replacement should be fine. Ebay sellers. Lots available, as very common problem. Buy new of course. Ideally a branded unit, like Valeo or Meyle etc. Take care removing the key lock bit from the door so the retaining ring doesn't drop out. Seal inside well once done so the rain doesn't get in afterwards. 👍🏻 Lots of pics for all of us to inspect please!

Yeah, it's most likely the lock mech and microswitches (inside). Such a common problem to all VAG cars, plagueing everything from Lupos to Phaetons. Octavias to Arosas. Worst case is when it's the rear door that has decided to stay deadlocked in something like a Polo. Bloody nightmare to fix. Usually you end up destroying half the car interior to get to the bare door, so you can drill it out. Once watched a Phaeton rear door fail- and get fixed. Over £2k to sort it. Madness. Oh, and welcome to CL