mk2

That's a hub carrier I'd be surprised if that got bent. They're strong. If the wheel was pushed back, then my guess is that the lower wishbone (track control arm) was damaged. It'd be easy to it see as well. A stub axle is a shaft that the bearings slide onto. Or for the front, the sleeve that the CV joint splined section slides into. Basically, the bit that rotates, and you attach a wheel and drum/disk to.

I became aware of lupos about 2005. Loads were about but never really noticed them. One turned up in the lab where we were working on developing a twin supercharged 3.6 fsi engine. It was nitro yellow green (or fantasia is it?), stripped out and race ready. We were asked to map it and that's it. I thought, what a cute little car. Only a some years later did I seek out a diesel Lupo as an occasional spare car. Got a few now.... oh dear.

Why is it using so much oil? 0.25L oil for every tank of fuel. Have you checked compression? Is turbo leaking a little?

Someone with good taste obviously.

She may have had it from new.... I haven't seen a gti locally here in corona virus central (reading) for years.... rare as now.

Could be sensor then? Dim switch light is an indicator that one of the power looms is working ok...

Add more...

Really really low oil level to begin with...? (Empty)

Yup. That's the one. "Suggested" that they're changed at 200k km. Quite a big job from what I've read on the A2 forum. Parts relatively cheap though

Sounds like a wire or loom plug behind the cluster. Might also be a relay, but if the car runs and everything else works, points to a power wire. Could be that a positive feed to the radio is playing up or even the ignition switch (common problem). Do you get a dim lights switch light when you open the door (you should)?

The early one is made of pressed magnesium I think. I'd like to see how magnesium is pressed. It is a very stiff unyielding material. But lightweight.

Yeah, oil pump chain. They only last 200k km. 150k miles. Design life. The nylon friction pads don't last.

Pothole damage? Claim from the council I did. All receipts and work paid. You need to identify a hole that they were aware of before the work was done, but were negligent about repairing. Our local council marks holes with a white paint box, then does nothing for a few weeks while everyone buggers up their suspension/tyres. I had to take them to court in the end. But they had no choice but to pay up. Ultimately, if they are aware of a serious hazard/danger on a road that they are responsible for, they need to either close off the road, put a barrier up and fix it within a reasonable time. Same for lamp posts down, missing manhole covers and road surface edge degradation. If they do nothing, they can be found to be negligent, as they have a duty of care....

How did you bend a stub axle?! That's like a 30mm diameter hardened steel bar, that's only a few inches long. Strong. Usually shocks or track arm that goes. When getting the camber right, you need to push in the hub carrier so the bottom of the wheel is as far in as it'll go. The three bolts that clamp the ball joint, you only need to loosen slightly to do that. Pull the top of the wheel out as far as it'll go by loosening off the two shock bolts. Then it should all line up nicely. Assuming the sub frame hasn't been moved.

Has the chain been replaced (and tensioner)?

I had my first little whoops when I was 12, so by my reckoning, you're about 28. I win by a year

Ah. Still older than you...

That happened five years ago. I thought you were younger than that Rich

If anything like a regular Lupo (that's a 3L), there are 2 screws you access from below to pull off the whole switch/cup holder panel.

Less than 40k is amazing! Wow! Worth at least 3k I'd guess?

I'll take a pic if it when i get a mo.

Valve cover to inlet plenum. Block plenum hole. Add conduit to valve cover. I use 50mm glue lined heatshrink to join conduit to fume pipe (cut end off first). I'd still wash out the inlet with thinners (works better than petrol).

Another SDI fan here... 👍🏻 most mechanics that you trust can do it. Total work time is about two, maybe two and a half hours. If you go to local VW, they may be able to offer you a deal (on the part or complete), as they already know well that this was a recall on Polo pedal boxes, identical to ours'. Was a free repair. Lay on the guilt nice and thick... You could try the plead ignorance that It was a free repair on Polo's so thought Lupo's were also free because it's the exact same part. But otherwise, the pedal boxes go for about £60. They can be welded, but the heating and cooling can weaken them still further. My only tip when replacing it, don't replace the shear bolts with new shear bolts. Use stronger 10.9 strength bolts, with a drop of thread lock. There's loads of info in the definitive pedal box thread. By the way, if you've been running with a misaligned clutch pedal for a while, I recommend a gearbox flush and refill. There'll be bits floating around in there now, grinding away at the gearbox bearings. Welcome to club lupo

Only the inlet plenum. Blocking off EGR and oil fumes. Divert oil fumes down to the road with a piece of electrical conduit... looks OEM. service the gearbox.

Is the combustion chamber shape the same? If yes, and the compression ratio is about the same, then the timing should be about the same. No easy way to change the timing on ecu controlled ignition. It's all based on crank angle pickup, rpm, engine/air temp, load and knock sensor adjustments. Even with a dizzy, i don't think you can adjust it, if crank angle based.