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mk2

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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Could be many things. Have you checked the compression on each cylinder?
  2. Mmm, not good. So what's not working now?
  3. You seriously need to get together with @Skezza. I think we can now call you the forum expert on vdub security systems... But yeah. I think a physical security system is in order now. I'll have to wire in some secret switch which will disable the engine. It's actually quite scary what devices like that can do. There's even software which can copy the ID of an apple phone to spoof apple pay. And bank cards, although I believe that there's a 12 byte authorisation code. I get how all the electronics works, but the software is the bit I don't get. And I don't like installing code without knowing that it's legit. Wish you were closer down south.
  4. Apparently can be used to crack everything (with a software update). There are some 'curious' youtube vids on the thing. From what I understand, it's a wide band radio receiver with data record facility. And protocol analyser. And has a built-in transmitter to rebroadcast what it has just picked up. Clever, but no good on rolling code keyfobs (so you can't steal VW cars with it!). Anyone tried it? (@Skezza?) Might get one and report back, but not cheap at about £170. Deliberately not using the name on here. See pic. Thoughts?
  5. mk2

    Gti

    Get outta here! No way. 8 complete gtis for sale? The parts alone are worth more than the car now (almost). Especially if not in good or mint condition. Going on ebay now for a look... It's true. How unusual. Everyone must be broke. Should've bought a Tesla. Er, I mean an SDI. I'm just trying to figure out how the cup car's title is transferred. If not a registered vehicle, who's to say you're the legal owner if you buy it? Any car can be registered, it's just a case of having it inspected first. An SVA.
  6. If the old control arms are still ok, just replace the bushes... use Mehle, FAG are other quality branded parts. I find they generally last ok (40k miles). But bear in mind that their purpose is to protect the suspension. Pot holes and kerbs destroy them. Stay with regular rubber bushes unless you're using the car on track. You'll thank me later On the Lamboghini Countach, the entire front suspension is made up using Rose joints, which great if you need extra precise handling, but they generally only last about 5k miles. An oversight for the engineers at Lambo... Not really a road going car. Oh, and when replacing them, look out for the little triangle/arrow, which shows which direction they need to be fitted in. If not in the right position, they wear out super fast.
  7. Sounds like yiu've done everything right. What condition was the sump magnet and filter in?
  8. @Rich as next MP for Durham? Now the big Q is "what would @mscherryviolet like us to do?". And then again what is realistic? Independent thought and all that...
  9. If the misfire goes away and everything runs nicely, then the CEL will go out after a few days. You could clear it, but won't make any difference. Lupos don't have a limp mode.
  10. That's up to you @Rich. When's that SDI going to be ready...? Of course, you're right @mscherryviolet 👍🏻🥂🎄. But still, cars cost money to keep on the road. I budget for £1000 a year plus fuel. I suppose that could be arranged too What should I do @Rich?
  11. mk2

    Gilly

    Depends on lots of things... but right now in this crazy market, perhaps £1500? No less than £1100. It'll be less than newer cars, not because of condition but road tax. And if anything needs sorting, like lock (£50). Paint not critical, as it's an old car. Why get rid? Fix her up and keep it for a few more years. See if you can post pics of the outside, inside and engine bay. There are always members on here looking for well kept Lupos/Arosas. Plus points for new drivers- low insurance, low running costs, low maintenance costs, relatively reliable and quite economical. Oh, and very easy to drive.
  12. Becs needs your car... @mscherryviolet
  13. Interesting one. Hmm. Could be anything. My first thought was fuel filter air leak (the two little O rings) but the system is pressurised by the in-tank fuel pump. So not that, if you can hear it whirring away when you first switch on. More likely an electrical issue. Ignition switch? Power relay under fuse box? Possible loom fault near the big round plug at the side of the engine (if your version has it). Possibly loose crank sensor or plug?
  14. I have "elephant snorkle" mods on every engine I own. Even my lawn mower. Sump gases are so bad for an engine it's crazy. Simple length of 20mm cable flex conduit from the breather outlet down towards the chassis rails under the car cures all evils. A bicycle handlebar bung works a treat to block the airbox inlet hole. To make the car run leaner is tricky, because the ECU is monitoring the O2 sensor, checking the mix all the time while driving. Unless you make yourself a O2 emulator circuit, so you can forcibly trick the ECU to make the mix richer or leaner. Could try a small gap somehwere on the vacuum side. Perhaps even one of the vacuum lines? I guess you might be able to let some air in bit by bit (when it's warmed up), until it throws a code.
  15. Are there a lot of blow by gasses from the sump? Lots of oil mist getting sucked in will increase CO levels. High CO usually means not enough air to burn all the hydrocarbons. So either too rich a fuel mix, not enough air or additional hydrocarbons from another source (like evap canister which Lupo doesn't have or oil mist gasses from the sump). Running rich is often demanded by the ECU if it thinks the engine is cold. A rich mixture makes a cold engine run smoother. Think 'choke'... Thus the temp sensor as a good candidate for swapping. Swapping the cat will only be a short term fix. I reckon that the cat is fine. It just needs purging (run lean for a bit). It's probably 'full'.
  16. Today I replaced a front wheel bearing after only 65k miles. I originally replaced it only 8 years ago. And after a test drive realised that the other also needs doing. Par for the course I guess. They always last only 65k miles. Another 3h work when it stops raining. Bushes last longer, but only if they're OEM. If you buy the lower control arms complete with unbranded bushes, I find that they never last very long. The lower ball joint I only replaced 14 months ago. And it was loose so I swapped it for a spare I already had. And I used to think the Comline brand was better than most... Trying to get a warranty swap. Two year warranty and all that.
  17. The Up is a smart little car, with some nice features. I like the Seat and Skoda versions better though (different tailgates). The main thing that struck me when I test drove both the basic and the gti is that it feels lighter. It's not, but feels it. Jittery. I guess a bit like the difference between a mk6 and mk2 golf. The mk2 feels like it's glued to the road but doesn't handle as well as a mk6! Odd.
  18. I wouldn't. I had a rat bite through the same type of nylon fuel line on a mk4 golf. You really want to replace it. It is the exact same type of hose as on many other vdubs/seats. Only that the length is different.
  19. Seasons greetings! 🎄👋🏻🥂🎉🎂
  20. Using standard parts wont fit, because the bearings are different. In theory, if you could find different bearings, then you'd need to swap the CV joints (the splined bit is different too). Rears easier. All round the brakes would need work too. Then you'll have wheel offset issues, as the wheel wells are small. Personally, I'd just swap the standard 13 or 14" rims to something interesting...
  21. Yeah sounds like you still have an electrical fault. Not the sensor. Ok to drive as much as you like. The ECU will simply follow an "open loop" map. So might use a little more (or less!) fuel. Same as it does on a cold engine when the O2 sensor hasn't warmed up yet.
  22. No. There's a fault somewhere... Amazed that you retrieved a hex driver from INSIDE the throttle body! Smoke from the EGR vent is just where the air is allowed in to fight against the engine vacuum. It's used as an equaliser. One side of the EGR diaphragm is vacuum, the other atmospheric pressure. A bit like how a brake booster works.
  23. You really want to get the exact same that were in there. They're actually pretty good (blaupunkt or philips). Speakers from Bora, Golf or Passat also fit straight in, as they have the same connector. Most breakers yards have lots. Or ebay... Just make sure the plug is the same, else you'll be cutting, crimping and soldering. I've tried quite a few different brands and aftermarket speakers and I personally think the OEM work very well with a standard hifi. And while fixing stuff, get a new blower motor resistor. They're not expensive and your car will actually warm up faster if you have the fan on low. When the fan is on high, the cold air doesn't have much time to warm up before it gets pushed into the car... It's a common fault for them to fail in most vdubs of that era.
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