James_VW

Yes happened to me, was some dirt/dust in the indicator stalk

I wouldn't worry too much tbh. Keep paying for financial security, insurance... Nothing beats the baseball bat method of stealing keys... 🤣 I saw a video other day of some lads pulling up front of a drive, pulling a weapon and demanding the keys. Vehicle gone in 30 seconds.

I did my cyber security dissertation on this sort of thing.. Looking into security of short range RF devices using RTL-SDR and yardstick one. Yes VW are protected from replay attacks by rolling codes but are still vulnerable to rolljam attacks which consists of blocking and capturing the first unlock code and then the second then replaying the first code leaving an unused unlock code to the vehicle, which an attacker can then resend later on. VWs and a lot of other manufacturers are vulnerable to this. I believe the hackrf device can do this, although this is some effort and hit/miss as your blocking the the frequency the remote key fob transmits on but also trying to record at the same time... Obvs also vulnerable to brute force attacks but that can take time. Quicker if you can see patterns of codes to reduce your key set. Ie if the beginning of a code or end of a code is the same you know you only need to guess the middle.. iirc the ecu/CCM stores a number of keys allowed to unlock the vehicle incase the keys are pressed numerous times outisde range of the vehicle. You would then need 2 or so consecitive codes to resync them with the ecu/CCM. So this also increases your chances as you have more acceptable codes to unlock the vehicle. What is more scary is that VW of the same era codes have been cracked so you can capture one code and create more for later use. Check this paper out. Lock It and Still Lose It—On the (In)Security of Automotive Remote Keyless Entry Systems Fortunately he hasn't released the cryptographics of it but be aware they are bust and vulnerable. What I did find funny a few years back I had a lupo without remote control locking. It was actually more secure fitting a 3rd party system like rclick than retrofitting the genuine system. Also worth noting is that many old garage doors/shutters etc are vulnerable to replay attacks.. Thinking of more physical security yet?

So, the fuel line quick connectors to and from the fuel filter (petrol) are broken. The fuel filter rusted, expanded, and made it impossible to remove, so had to aggressively remove which removed the insides of the quick connectors. I have temporarily fitted 2 new quick connectors to some neoprene fuel line and luckily pushes over the remaining nylon fuel line with good friction and an additional clamp. So far so good although isn't necessary good practice? Now, the fuel lines are obsolete... Scrappys tend to stack cars so make it difficult to remove... Is a full neoprene fuel line good enough from tank to filter and over to the other connector. Or should I see if I can recreate the nylon fuel line? I have managed to fit a quick connector to some nylon in practise with a caulk gun and a brake pipe flaring tool clamp. Although neoprene is easier to manipulate compared to nylon but nylon was factory fit. Long story short, is neoprene good enough?

Can you rebuild your current ones? The pistons and seals are easily obtained. I once ordered one from a polo 6n2 TDI from Spain I think it was. Slightly more expensive than a 2nd hand one from here, but wow it was clean. Never seen any salt. Still had it's electroplating intact.

Welcome to clublupo. All the same reasons why I also kept my GTi. Although now becoming a labour of love... Probably my fault tho, leaving stuff untill it really needs doing. Luckily I have kept many spare parts over the years as finding stuff is becoming difficult. In my experience, VW have discontinued most parts for the lupo and finding them in the breaker yards are few and far between, no chance of a GTi in one.

Can't seem to watch the videos. If the power steering fluid is low where has it gone? I would check the auxiliary belt make sure there is enough tension on it, should tell if it's slipping. Whip off the auxiliary belt and spin the bearings see what is making the noise (alternator, tensioner, power steering pump). If none of the above, start car up with belt still off and see if it's a camblet tensioner/bearing. From what you've put it sounds to me as though the power steering pump has ran dry and knackered. Check for leaks around it.

Wouldn't that also make the passenger side not work? Did a vcds scan and only issue is something with the alternator so don't believe this to be related. I also swapped the headlight switch from a working gti aswell, no change. All I can think is a wiring issue between the a pillar and central locking module or a central locking module failure. I wonder if through vcds you can force a door open event to see if that function does work which would prove a wiring issue.

Having an issue with drivers door microswitch. Passenger side works fine. No interior light coming on or buzz when headlights are left on and ignition removed. Annoyingly, the car keeps locking when the drivers door is open and a dead battery when I returned due to the headlights being left on... Replaced lock mechanism with a new Chinese one, still no difference. (Tested chinese in another GTI and does work) Replaced with a known working used one - no difference. Unplugged door wiring loom and fitted another one and plugged in the mechanism only - no change. (All the other connections dont need to be connected do they? I fitted it in but didnt route through the door) My thinkings are: Wiring issue further down the line beyond the drivers door harness? Potentially the last owner modified something in VCDS to bypass the door microswitch? - set it to be closed all time rather than replacing it if it was faulty? Is this possible? I think this as the car has had some VCDS changes such as horn blip on lock and auto lock above 10mph. Are there any specific fuses for the microswitch? Any thoughts?

I took the hub knuckle to a local garage and asked to borrow the hydraulic press - the guy did it me for some beer tokens. The wheel bearing almost maxxed out the press, guessing due to the corrosion.

As per title. Thanks

This may be helpful for the shafts https://youtu.be/oDuw0hBIRRk

The old foam tape? has perished. What shall i use to reseal it? It must also be removable so that the brake light can be maintained. Water tight seal is also needed to reduce chance of bubbling/pealing paint on the spoiler. Thanks

I also ordered ball joints last week from buycarparts.co.uk who also sent stark instead of RTS. I sent those back. I then ordered directly from autodoc and insisted I got the RTS and not stark. They put a marker on my account that basically says no substitute parts are to be sent other than what is ordered. The RTS ball joints got delivered so they do have them in stock.

Did the garage put in the correct ball joints? The ones listed to fit the GTI on ecp etc are not correct. The only place I know to get them is either VW or autodoc (link somewhere in the forum) is the whole driveshaft broken or just the cv joint? The cv joint can be replaced.