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About luiscamino

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  • Location
    Munich, Germany

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  • Currently Driving
    Lupo GTI, Arosa 1.0, MX-5 NC
  1. yeah more or less... and planning new supension (B12 kit) plus a bunch of other small things: Missing rubber seal front of hood, left side Hood inner lining Refit roof cantrails Fix front brakes (non symmetrical) Fix windscreen/dashboard noises Handbrake doesn't brake right rear wheel (!?) Parasol driver mirror broken Electrical AC (no current) Driver seat heating Window switch driver side for passenger window Window switches Auto function Door lock (interior light and headlight warning sound)
  2. Just a quick update months later to inform that the vibrations under acceleration were indeed an inner CV link. I actually went ahead and replaced both shafts since the price was not so different from replacing the CV links (parts more expensive but labour cheaper). I was almost moved to tears as I drove away feeling how smooth it runs now... Now I can move on to the next issues.
  3. so I keep trying to diagnose the vibration while i search for a good vw specialist around here... the engine seems to be pretty solid in place when i try to push it. it also doesn't move too much when i accelerate in 1st and reverse with the handbrake on. however the whole car does vibrate as well at idle when cold, for the first couple of minutes (and not from low rpm, it's stable at 950-1000). the top two engine mounts look ok visually but i might try taking them out since it's easy. i haven't checked the lower one yet. as for the CV joint, the shafts themselves don't seem to have any play in them when i push them around in all directions. the left joint rubbers seem to be in good condition with no grease leaks at all. as for the right one, i managed to take a photo of the inner rubber and it does seem to be pretty grimey... what do you think? sign of a leak, meaning defective joint?
  4. Black GTI Lupo breaking for parts

    any chance there's anything left of it? would be interested in the spoiler
  5. Lupo GTI in Modern Classics

    Yup and they messed up the name on the cover XD
  6. yeah the repair manual is for all Lupos and Arosas, not just GTI. it's actually short on GTI specific info unfortunately. i'll try rocking the engine later, thanks for that tip! meanwhile I've found this interesting video where a worn inner CV joint is shown, as cause of exactly this problem. he's literally describing my symptoms:
  7. Thank you all for the tips! No idea if GTIs have a dual mass flywheel, but if that was the case, wouldn't the vibration also happen with lift off, since the flywheel is still rotating? when i press the clutch at any revs, the vibration stops almost immediately. Check this out by the way, VW dealership tells me EACH inner CV joint costs 206€ Is there any disadvantage in buying some non-originals off ebay? As far as I know these are the "balls" type, not the "tripod" ones with the 3 ring-like bearings. According to a repair manual I have, different Lupos have different types. As for the exhaust... I hope I can find the problem elsewhere before I have to get to that... but thanks!
  8. Hello all! I think I haven't posted a lot in like a decade here (I have a 1.0 Arosa since 1997, which I love) but a couple of months ago I finally made the dream of "upgrading" to a GTI. It's a German 2004, tornado red, 6 gears, 145k km (90k miles), all stock. Visually in excellent condition, zero rust around or underneath, hasn't been repainted anywhere, great interior... and after what was obviously not a thorough enough inspection, I brought it home having noticed only that there was something wrong with the engine temperature sensor, brakes needed changing, and a slight vibration while driving that didn't concern me much at the time. 1st set of problems: Electric On the ride home and the next few days I started noticing small things: Driver's seat heating worked intermitently, driver's door passenger window opener also didn't work all the time, rear wiper button on the stalk not working (though wiper itself worked), blinker stalk a bit faulty, driver's door open not activating interior light and and the Gamma CD changer unit LEDs not lighting up with headlights on (though unit works). Small things, I thought, till I brought it (innocently and lazily) to the VW dealership right in front of where I live. Long story short, they said all the cables in the driver’s side door sill were in really bad condition, as if there had been a continuous water leak into the area god knows from where. They recommended against replacing the whole loom because of insane costs in the thousands and no guarantee that another problem would appear somewehere else. So they just repaired some individual cables… not exactly sure for what, because the door lock, seat heating and window problem are still present. Has anybody heard about internal cables getting rusty? Would you trust a non-VW workshop to replace the whole thing (if I ever found an extra loom to begin with)? 2nd problem: Vibration during acceleration So the vibration was not so "slight", it's actually really annoying and worrying, and doesn't let me enjoy the car at all and push it as it wants... I have obsessively searched and read through dozens of topics describing similar symptoms, the most similar to mine being this one. But I still couldn’t say for sure I know where the problem originates. At VW they said the engine mounts are OK, they replaced spark plugs and leads and the problem persists (i.e. they didn’t take the time to even try the car before or after). There was never any power loss problem anyway, but whatever. The vibration appears only during acceleration, the stronger the acceleration (demand for torque) the slightly stronger the vibration gets. I don’t feel it at all through the steering wheel, but rather through the whole car, most notably the front of the car. The vibration is also not noisy, it’s more of a strong “pulse”. It gets especially bad above 5000rpm in 6th gear (100mph, Autobahn), but as soon as I lift off or press the clutch, it disappears almost instantly. What do you think? Honestly if my brain didn’t know it’s impossible, I’d say a cylinder is trying to jump out of the engine! But after the research I’m thinking more a faulty inner CV joint (can’t be outer joint because I’d feel it on the steering wheel, right?) or according to some other accounts, the ball joints, though my limited knowledge prevents me from understanding how a ball joint affects the driving. I'm sorry for the long post... I wanted to gather as much info as possible before asking for help and opinion, rather than the usual back and forth Thank you in advance for any hints! PS: Fun fact: I also have a 2006 2.0 MX-5 NC with 6 gears and I thought of the Lupo as the fun little city car to replace the Arosa (for reasons) and keep the MX-5 for proper trips through the Alps. Then a couple of weeks ago I discovered that the Lupo 0-60mph acceleration numbers are exactly the same as the Mazda!! Amazing for a 35hp disadvantage for the Lupo, even if it weighs about 100kg less. The gear ratios of the GTI are freaking awesome. I'm going to have to bring it to the fun trips as well, once it gets sorted
  9. Lupo GTI Engine Details...

    I'm sorry to bump this old thread but I've read it through and it's not entirely clear to me that there's a consensus about the GTIs with a B in their VIN not being genuine. Can someone offer additional proof? I also know a "B" Lupo and by all means looks genuine down to the tiniest details, but maybe I'm being fooled?
  10. one of the arosas in the radical arosas thread

    NO WAYYYY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! XDDDDDDDDDD
  11. polo engine

    holy crap!!! it's taking him more than two years!! any other link on improving a 1.0 rather than an engine swap? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blush:" border="0" alt="blush.gif" />
  12. one of the arosas in the radical arosas thread

    yeah a 1.0 but very well educated style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> everything is standard except what you can see. the interior is actually pretty crappy. after i have the suspension, new brakes and some interior modifications i'll put a 16v in there. my wheels are the o.z. superturismo model 2005 15", on 195/50 toyo proxes t1-s. best purchase i've ever made. have you thought about painting the lower parts of the bumpers? cheap and good looking mod. btw i don't think i have photos, but i put the "arosa" badge on the doorstep, ferrari style XDDD
  13. one of the arosas in the radical arosas thread

    style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> yeah that and a volvo 850 painted in the same way that starred in "airbag", one of the best spanish movies of all time. and the stripe just fits perfectly in the design style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> yeah me too, but here if you want to lower a car more than 30mm you have to get it officially approved and pay some serious dough. sucks. nice rims lunapi style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> 15"?
  14. Mk2 Arosa 1.4 8v Vs Mk2 Arosa 1.4 16v sport + TDI & other cars

    absolutely. that's what in my family we have experienced with my 1.0 arosa (http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=21812). it was bought in 1997 and is just over 100.000km now. it's not only about the mileage, but the "education" you give the car. for the first 4 years my mother drove it and when i inherited it was still sleepy. when my father drives it nowadays he totally feels new rage in the car. i always drive it between 3500 and 5000rpm in 2nd to 4th and to 6000 in 5th, the car is just used to go in that range, and therefore "asks" you to rev up since the beginning. truth is you can almost stall it in a lower range lol but the 1.0 can be very angry some times, especially if before thinking in putting a 1.4 16v you change the wheels, rims, brakes and suspension and drive fast through any corner at relatively constant speeds. that means flooring it (which is not much of an acceleration), but then keeping the speed in reasonable limits so you don't have to brake much. if you do, you'll need more acceleration at the exit of a corner than what this engine can provide.