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John90

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Switzerland

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  • Currently Driving
    Lupo 3L 2000.
  1. John90

    Induction / air filter

    Cold, free flowing air makes a massive difference. I am very suspicious of these kits that have an exposed filter under the bonnet. Are they going to work with the bonnet down in hot traffic? Dyno runs are sometimes pictured with the bonnet open!
  2. John90

    Wiper mechanism connecting rod.

    Thanks Skezza. Never heard about those wiper clips before, just ordered two off UK ebay for £4 inc post... Should be a perfect stop gap. The new complete arms for sale in ebay germany, 7 euros inc free post to Germany so have had one sent to a drop box account I have in Germany.
  3. John90

    repair manual

    There is a Haynes/Autodata style German Language Lupo workshop manual that even covers the Lupo 3L. It is an interesting way to learn German, not much fun when you misinterpret and then get stuck as a result though.
  4. The metal connecting rod with two plastic sockets that push over the ball linkages repeatedly fell off at one end of my wipers in Belgium yesterday, so I was left with one wiper which occasionally would jam and stop. It kept falling off so I removed the arm completely leaving just the one wiper working. Fortunately I still made the ferry to Dover. (Warning My car is LHD) Part number is 6x1955326a. Can you get just the plastic sockets, is there some other trick out there? It happened before on a different Lupo 3L (near Venice that time, never happens at home!). I popped that one back on and all stayed put until the car caught fire a few years later....
  5. John90

    Rear drums stuck on

    Agree with Rich & co on the wedges. However, is the rust bond between the drum and the hub broken? You removed the cross head screw, and now you should be able to rotate the hub centre so that the bolt centres don't align with the holes in the drum. If you can't do that, then the drum could be stuck to the hub. The wedges are tiny and have a small dot on the back you can move them with using a screwdriver. A seized or dragging handbrake cable can also contribute to this. There are 2 per car. One thing though, first make sure the handbrake is totally released in the car and to the floor, then pull hard on each hand brake cable at the hub, waggle the outer, so there is as much slack as possible at/inside the hubs, opposite one first, then the one you are working on.
  6. Turns out the car appears to be Immo2, and the donor immo3. The car started and ran for a few seconds with the immo3 ECU box, but the immo3 immobiliser box won't fit, as the connectors are different on the loom. 2 extra pins on the immo3 box (6x0953257), compared to the immo2 (6h0953257B). The key reader connections were the same... So looking at ebay for a 6h0 box with matching immo chips on ebay...
  7. OK. I have been behind that fuse flap to change relays before. On LHD the fuse flap is on the left of the car by the driver. I have lost my only working Lupo key with chip. Looking back should have glued the chip as suggested. So all I need then is the immo chip from a key and matching immo box, then code the box to my ECU with Vagcom... If my car happens to be immo2 (July 2000 model so could be either), can I code a November 2001 immo3 box with chip to mine? (never done coding yet with Vag com, mainly used it to reset the 3L semi auto transmission) As an aside here, does Vag Tacho talk direct to the immobiliser when programming keys???
  8. I read on here that the immobiliser box is located "under the passenger vent". Does that mean I need to pull the dash out? Easier way? Also is it on the passenger side of an LHD car? Would really like some accurate instructions as to where the box is located. Thing is have lost my key. I have a duplicate key that works mechanically, but no immobiliser chip in it. I want to swap the key chip, ECU and immobiliser box from another Lupo 3L. My car is a July 2000 model. Could be immo2 or immo3. Will it matter if the donor car is immo3 as I am swapping as a matched set, and the immo3 Lupo 3L also has a separate immobiliser box (not found it yet). Instruments are not coded on this model). Any info appreciated, esp. if this is a detailed description of exactly where the immo box is on an RHD Lupo.
  9. The driveshaft problem was the inboard CV triple joint, which has been replaced now, and the car is driving smoothly again. Missing Passenger side electric mirror is going back on today. So car is in better shape now.
  10. Make: VW Model: Lupo 3L MOT: Swiss MOT, 1 year left TAX: Swiss registered, no UK tax paid. Nov 2001 first registered, might be tax free in UK when registered. Engine size: 1.2l Fuel type: Diesel Description including modifications: 250k KM, new turbo at 240k km, good brakes, good engine and gearbox. Runs nicely, but drive shafts clicking and vibrating between 30 and 60mph OK at 70mph & under 30. Passenger mirror knocked off. Body wise some scratches here and there- Have some pictures. You will need to register the car here. At the moment I drove over from Switzerland last week in the car and am visiting friends, so all papers are Swiss right now. It is taxed and insured. Location: Canary Wharf, London Images: Price: 2000 gbp negotiable.
  11. One side of the wedge is flat with a small drillout that goes half way through. The other side of the wedge has a cylindrical bump, about 1.5mm high. The bump could actually be a pressing (which explains the drillout). Which side of the wedge goes against the shoe backing plate surface? The flat side? or the side with the bump? At the moment I have the flat side touching the shoe backing plate. I had to position each wedge manually to get a really good handbrake setup yesterday for the test which passed (2nd time though).
  12. Refilling cap was 17mm hex on my Lupo, couldn't shift it. I ended up taking out the reversing light switch and filling through that hole, measuring the required amount.
  13. Sounds to me like the seller fiddled with the light in the dash to stop it coming on, not realising that the loose wire was the cause of the light problem. Once the wire is in the computer now knows that the oil is OK, so the beep has gone. Hopefully you only have the light problem left to fix.
  14. Have not done this recently. But in the past I scrapped one lock, and made the other good from the tumbler parts. Then a central locking kit, or open the passenger door from the inside. I have also used another good lock as a donor, and fitted my tumblers into that one, filed down/chucked tumblers (reduced security I know). In the old days, there were only a few tumblers, and 5 or so different shapes, so scrapping 2 or 3 locks would give you enough parts to build one perfect lock. A VW lock with no key must only be worth a quid to a friendly scrappie. With a stubborn scrappie, one trick is to turn up with a washing machine in a wheel barrow, and offer to swap it for a few VW locks without keys... Usually the neighbour gives you a beer for getting rid of their old machine too. More recently, when doing a rolling restoration on a classic car, I have built a lock like this to fit an original key, so all numbers match. Great feeling to get the original key, all worn looking, and open a nice new lock with it.
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