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Steaton

Premium Member
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About Steaton

  • Birthday 11/03/1989

Previous Fields

  • My Car Diary
    http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/97731-steatons-arosa-tdi/
  • Currently Driving
    Seat Arosa TDI 1.4

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    senf.ste@hotmail.co.uk
  • Website URL
    http://www.vinylfantasy.biz

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ashton-in-Makerfield

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  1. Wow the under dash of the polo is hugely different! I don't think a single screw hole is in the right place. I'm still going to fit it just may go back to the scrap yard and take some of the polo dash frame with me and fabricate brackets and fixings. It seriously looks like a lot of work! The handbrake was a straight swap and the centre console also looks like a straight swap. I've just unplugged the heater controls and going to have a look at fixing the illumination issue. The temperature knob also didn't go all the way round to hot, this was because the pink clip on the back had slipped out, works fine now its back in.
  2. Could do with some different wheels when some come along.
  3. Wired up the kit I bought as instructed above, but somehow managed to set lock and unlock the wrong way around, which was easily rectified. Also you don't push in the square on the handle you have to pull out the black square clip then the handle comes off, spend 15 minutes trying to push the thing in before I thought about pulling instead. Keys cut and the whole thing works great, and much cheaper than going to the dealers to have 2 new keys done. Cost £25 in all including keys cut. I've also bought the whole bottom dash section from a polo 6n2, cost me £15! I understand from what I have read it won't be a perfect fit and will be off in many places, but the car is a runabout anyway so I couldn't care less! It will match the bodywork on the passenger side. If there isn't a tutorial I could make one? I bought the center console, glovebox, part under steering cowl, steering cowl, foot rest, headlight switch underneath plastic, the whole handbrake as I want a black one and couldn't get the cover off. possibly some other bits, not 100% sure I will have a go at fitting it tomorrow even though it will probably rain for most of the day :3 Oh and I've also fitted some JOM's which were relatively straightforward (as the 13 year old suspension was knackered and why not get some budget coils?), ended in the dark and rain as usual though Back is on the lowest setting with adjusters in. Front is fairly high up (90mm from the top bolt) but its still sitting lower at the front. I'm assuming because a diesel engine is heavier. Handling is fine, though the back end likes to slip out at times, i can get over most terrain but asda speed bumps still scrape > Would like some steels now, painted a silly colour but unsure what are the best to get. I still have some center caps from a mk3 golf, so something those would fit to? And I stuck in a couple of 56ohm resistors wired in series to the fuel temp sensor and the torque seems better, will see how much this affects my economy, as the whole idea of this car is to be cheap, hence why I am never fixing the bodywork damage.
  4. Well I had fixed it, but when I opened the door a bunch of water drops fell from the roof into the switches, now the driver is permanently stuck in roll down, great! I'm thinking of using similar push switches you find in pc mice or even smaller ones and fixing them inside the switch housing, wiring them to the boards and seeing how that goes. When I get time! I'm fitting a universal central locking kit and been searching the forums for the wiring information. Found it at last from a different thread: The wiring looks to be the same so I'll get that fitted tomorrow, also the locksmiths near me will only charge £10 for both keys cut so that's good. If it works I'll make a diagram and pictures for wiring as I always work better from diagrams.
  5. Aha spoke too soon, fixed the window controls. Just needed to take the black switches out of the surround, split them in half, take the board out, clean it up, tin all the contacts with solder, then reassemble, humbrol glue and plastic weld, good as ne... well... decent, works anyway!
  6. Looks like the window switches on the drivers side are rusted up unlike the other ones I fixed. Is it possible to buy these from VW or have they been discontinued? I know there was a guy last time I bought the cambridge rear lights from. If not is the only place to get them from ebay and the scrappers (last one I got from the scrappers didn't work). Also unable to code the remote to the car after trying at least 6 different ways of reprogramming found using Google, so I have bought a universal HAA flip key remote central locking kit from ebay for just over £15. I'll just transfer the transponder over.
  7. Are those the pin/bolt things on the callipers? Will I have to replace them or can I get them off and refurb?
  8. Lupo lightsRemoved Wiper arm and fitted a black wrapped tap hole blank
  9. Well... I'm back. Since my Arosa sport I've had an Octavia mk1 1.9tdi 108ps, a Seat Ibiza FR mk3 pd130. Now I've decided to come back to the Arosa/Lupo Club but with the 1.4 tdi. Couldn't pass up the chance of £30 a year road tax, great fuel economy and cheap insurance, especially being self employed. I'll create a new progress thread as it has many of the common problems. Sorry for bumping a 15 month old thread! :3
  10. Well... I'm back. Since my Arosa sport I've had an Octavia mk1 1.9tdi 108ps, a Seat Ibiza FR mk3 pd130. Now I've decided to come back to the Arosa/Lupo Club but with the 1.4 tdi. Couldn't pass up the chance of £30 a year road tax, great fuel economy and cheap insurance, especially being self employed. Bought it last Thursday (02/01/2014), already changed the rear lights for standard Lupo's and wired the rear fogs and reverse lights. I'll be looking to purchase a full interior if anyone is selling, as the one fitted is gray and stained. And bumpers, maybe sport ones but I'm not too fussed, I do miss having front fogs already though . Problems I've found so far:Driver door dropped (replace hinges?)Illumination on the heater controls not workingFloppy accelerator (I fixed this before, loose bolt on the acc pot)Electric window switches totally knackered (fixed this before too, rebuild the switches)Windows roll up and down incredibly slowMid speakers do not work at allTweeters crackle and cut outRear bumper cracked (probably replace)Body damage on most panels (probably live with it)Few rust patches (Sand back and spray)Dirty stained grey interior (needs replacing)Curbed alloys (may be changing wheels anyway)Starter motor runs on after startingBrakes feel odd, spongy and wheel wobbles when braking hard. (warped discs? air in system?)Tracking looks outRear offside spring has shattered (want to lower anyway)Key gets stuck in lock when locking the doorRemote fob doesn't work, red LED never illuminates (I'll have to buy a couple more from ebay)Mats need replacingAlterations done so far: Rear lights replaced for Red Lupo onesLED map lightSprayed a bunch of Oust inside it
  11. Now for sale, you will find on ebay, I don't know how to sell things on here or what the rules are Needed a bigger car though the arosa was bags of fun
  12. It's worth doing if you can be arsed with the fiddling, but make sure you put a locking nut on so you never have to do it again
  13. Cleaned up my engine bay a little Sprayed manifold cover (really like the red on the inside even though it won't be seen) and rocker cover and cleaned the plastics
  14. I did repair my broken one before its fairly easy I just broke the clips on the back so had to plastic weld it back together (and then put it on the wrong way so up was down and down was up) I got one from the scrap yard for free (the guy said out it in my pocket because the surround was damaged) My switch and the one I got free both had a broken switch so I popped the broken ones out and put the working ones into the surround. Now I'm sorted Talking of eBay I saw one go for £86 once, actually stupid
  15. Mine creaks, my pedal box is snapped, its the firewall bending ever so slightly because the clutch section of the pedal box is not being supported by the rest of the box just the firewall it is bolted to
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