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JAM

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About JAM

  • Birthday 06/15/1986

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    dj_jam74@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.bttos.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Oldham

Previous Fields

  • Currently Driving
    '00 Jazz Blue ABT Lupo Sport on FK Konigsports

JAM's Achievements

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  1. to me that definatly looks like its been resprayed for 2 reasons. 1 ive never heard of that happening to a standard finis and 2 there is too much orange peel to have come from the factory like that. the bumped will be need to be flatted bacj and re-painted as if you just re laquered it then you will still be able to see where the laquer had peeled up before.
  2. The jet wash could have made the paint peel but normally its bad prep work when its been painted before. Sounds to me like it has been painted before as its very uncommon for an original paint job to do that. There could be 2 causes why its done this. The bumper wasnt scotched and keyed up properly or the paint was left too long to dry before the laquer was put on. Its usually that the panel has been keyed properly though. And ye shouldnt really cost anymore than £100 even in a good bodyshop
  3. Easiest/time consuming thing ive found, through my job (car body repairer) is buffer with a woffle head on it and some Farecla G10 polish, may need to be done more than once, then if need be or want to a good hand polish afterwards i normally use Autoglym.
  4. ye its jazz blue. think the code is W5Z. ill double check for you though when i get home.
  5. half of it went in lol. the rest lost me haha. the main functions that matter really to me are the speed revs etc and the basic/important warning lights, not too bothered about all the bits like mpg read out, distance left in tank etc. am i right in saying they work similar to vw ones with the chip being in the clocks? what is CAN messaging? sorry if sound stupid im not too clued up on electronics. want to learn as i got on with it thats one of the reasons to do it lol.
  6. thats what ive done. the shine is spot on and allows enough light to get though. advantage of this way aswell is you can finely adjust the ammount that goes on then give it a couple of coats of totally clear to protect the tinted lacquer.
  7. right im in the process of gathering bits and about to start on a 20vt engine conversion. basically im after anyone who has knowledge regarding the electrics and coding of the clocks. although i need someone who really knows there stuff and not only with vw but with porsche aswell and if they are in anyway compatable. cheers Jam
  8. the pinky/red and black car is quite cool, im in to that but the one thing that does let it down is the look of the install. looks a bit tacky to me if you get where i come from.
  9. i did the same with my archs, beat them with a panel hammer, but i cut slits in mine so not to put too much tension on it and distort the outer bit of it. as for the arch rolling/flaring tool. they seem good and are meant to work but been told you sometimes need practice with it just incase.
  10. very nice mate, like it a lot. definatly a good choice. will have to make a road trip up sometime. maybe it s a good one when lupos back on the road lol. what plans you got for it? not that it needs much anyway.
  11. JAM

    Paint preparation

    are you painting the whole bumper or just going to paint the corners, fade it out and laquer the whole lot? theres 2 ways really you can do it the 100% proper way or you could cut a few small corners. to start with how deep are the scuffs? are they just in to the paint or are they right through in to the plastic? if they are just in to the paint and primer then, start by flatting the areas down that you are going to paint with, in my opinion, atleast p800 wet and dry paper. if the scuffs are ever so slightly visible then try a very light skim of bog or stopper or even one stop putty (dont always recomend that putty though as it can sink too easily). if you do this then try flatting it down again with p800. now you could either prime the areas if wanted but its not 100% essential. if its quite a deep scuff, then sand the paint off round the area with p320 on a DA sander if poss as to try save the plastic from going furry. skim over the scuff using some bog or stopper, until your happy with it. next give it a couple of coats of high build primer. let this dry then flat where ever your going to paint with at least p800. before you paint give the full bumper a scotch with a grey scotch brite. then degrease it so that all the grease and comtaminates will be removed and finally paint and laquer. just read you last post. ig your going to colour code it to, before priming and painting the bottom half of the bumper make sure you plastic prime the new plastic first.
  12. my mate knows the lad whos doing you conversion mate, and think we've got one of his manifolds at work and they are sh*t hot. need to maybe have a look at your car or pop up see the lad as im about to 20vt my lupo with the help of my mate who knows the lad doing yours. cant wait to see the finished product mate
  13. im still gutted your not doing this mate. i know your loss is my gain but i would back out of buyin some bits if you were going to carry on along with this project. its a shame. as i wanted to see this complete
  14. either that or see how mine goes should hopefully be starting soon mate. found an engine at good price thanks to a good contact shame not quite the engine i want but will do the job for now. will keep you updated mate, but will no doubt need a bit of advice haha
  15. ive fallen in love, not always a big fan of tiny wheels, but think it must be the type of wheel as that look awsome. more pics needed
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