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Everything posted by cj1

  1. cj1

    Vw Lupo NOS parts

    Ahhh NOS. Got a driveshaft the other day for £55, boxed all it's life. Can't argue with that!
  2. cj1

    Exhaust for Seat Arosa 1L

    Speakers facing outwards, playing engine sounds on repeat
  3. Brand new shaft found on eBay for £55! Bargain. Been boxed since the guy got it! 6N0 407 452. Seems to be one of the petrol 6N ones so should be the same! 🙂
  4. Hello, Over the weekend I had an inner cv joint fail, not under power, when downchanging to second gear on entry to a left hand corner. The cage wasn't cracked, it seemed like the shaft had been pulled outwards slightly. I'd like some opinions on what potentially could have caused this. I've done 21 rallies event free on this shaft, so potentially it's just wear. However what has been changed lately: Powerflex Black Bushes (front & rear) fitted to both front wishbones. Camber set to -1.5 deg negative. Tracking is 0/Parallell, not that this would really impact it but still. So the bushes did cause the tracking to be WAY out, which doesn't usually happen if we just change a suspension arm. And I've seen people using this level of camber before without issue. But I guess I have the following questions now: Could the stiffness, or slight difference in dimensions of the wishbone bushes cause this? Am I running too much camber? Is this simply normal wear after some competitive use? Any advice appreciated. Ride height is relatively normal, not excessively low. Plan is to get the car on the ramp and check for lateral movement in the shaft. I'm thinking revert to standard suspension arm bushes (Not liking the powerflex ones anyway) and set the camber to maybe less of an angle at -0.5 or something. We've not hit anything to damage the subframe either. @Rich, @mk2, any ideas?
  5. Had the alignment checked. All seems pretty good with that! Next event is the 3rd November so let’s see how we get on if anything I’m now more concerned about the TDI and how it gets away with the angle! Ha cheers rich!
  6. Haha, I’d never noticed! Just had a look at the one I have here!
  7. Passenger side was pulled out a little but not as much as the drivers one. I agree you’d think it should be fine. Okay it’s on coilovers but it isn’t really much lower than standard ride height anyway. As far as I know, all 085 boxes share the same casing and drive flanges. Shafts are the same across all of the petrol lupos too I think. It does make me wonder though, what if this is in fact normal, but realistically who’s going to check the plunge on their driveshafts? Maybe the use of the car is what has exaggerated the impact. Cant see anything different elsewhere. I know you can get different gearbox mounts, but again as the casing is the same on all of the boxes, so long as both the chassis and the gearbox part of this are the correct pair then it should always align to the same point.
  8. Nope, tried a few shafts now, all the same. One off the polo the engine came with and the original one out of the 1.0 Lupo. Engine mounts are fine too. Aye. Did it on a lift and a big block of wood under the ball joint! Same effect I guess. I can’t fully work it out and I don’t have the original suspension to weigh it up with really but something in the set up is pulling the drivers side one out further than it should be. Ill be getting new wheel bearings soon anyway so will be able to see what they’re like soon.
  9. Ok. Yes, it was pulled out is the summary. it seems there’s no float on the outer cv so it’s hard to weigh it all up in place. But it’s very evident that tightening the outer cv into the hub that that action pulls the inner cv to the maximum of its travel. That combined with turning in either direction pulls on this joint even more. Anyhow, we machined some 6mm spacers to sit on the back of the wheel bearing and push the inner cv back towards the gearbox a bit, all seems okay and can’t feel it pulling to the maximum of the inner cv float. Job done for now, let’s see how we get on!
  10. cj1

    Clayton's Tornado Red GTI..

    Really loving the attention to detail on this. looking good. What did you get the front alignment set to?
  11. That's a very good point actually and one of the reasons I came to here to try and gather others' opinions. I'll check the outer CV, your explanation would make more sense than the seemingly undamaged inner joint simply going back together. If the outer can't move, it is going to affect the plunge on the inner too, pulling it out as soon as we turned left. Would also explain why it happened even though the car wasn't under power at all... Will report back my findings!
  12. Haven't inspected it yet. Plan for this weekend is to refit original wishbone bushes, remove spring from strut, refit strut and check for lateral movement in the shaft through all suspension and steering travel. Will inspect the outer joint too
  13. cj1

    VW Lupo wiper linkage

    One way you can fix this is to drill a small 4mm hole through the linkage, fit an M4 bolt and a nyloc nut, grease it suitably and that should last some time. Did that on mine
  14. Yeah, it's a new diff (Also may be related to the issue) with no noise at all. Front subframe hasn't been off. Wishbones aren't OEM they're pattern parts but this has been the case for a while, the only difference now is the bushes in them, which concerns me in itself. With the ball joints out we couldn't get the wishbone to move up or down at all, it's so stiff it was impossible to do.
  15. It just seems odd when there wasn’t much steering on for it to have reached the end of its travel. Still, I think I’m going to get the camber set to maybe around 0, and fit the original bottom arm bushes. These two changes seem to have contributed to the issue. Been around that track so, so many times before without issue!
  16. I didn’t notice any. Yep time for a new one, I was more curious if this was due to wear and tear or if there’s an underlying issue somewhere. Given what I’ve seen I’m leaning towards normal wear for a shaft that’s done 70k miles, 1000-2000 probably being beaten on rallies. Thinking brand new OEM ones which should do us well for a lot more events.
  17. cj1

    Project Rally lupo!

    Hi all, been a while since I've been on this forum! Used to drive a fantasia green lupo E for my first car! Been itching for a while to start a project off and get into rallying. Happened to get my hands on another lupo E for a reasonable price, and decided instead of selling it on/using it as a daily I'd use it as a base for a project! The car was a lupo 1.0 E. Standard car. The plan is to do the minimum to meet regulations to begin with, and then progress from there. Going to be leaving the 1.0 engine in initially and then as time/money allows upgrade to either 1.4/1.6 class. Over the weekend I've began stripping out the interior. Car mainly stripped out: Didn't realise there was this much in it! Removed radio and speakers today. Began wrapping the colour coded bits of the dash in Matt black to reduce glare on the window. The plan is to fabricate a panel to cover the double din hole where the radio is usually located, and house all the switches in here. Next up is to remove all the bits of bitumen from the chassis and roof. Then next on the list will be to install a roll cage, to see what mods need to be done (if any) to the dash for it to fit. Ordered a battery master switch with 6ft pull cord today as well. There's going to be a lot of work involved but it will be worth it when I get there! If anyone's after any interior bits, please let me know! Watch this space!
  18. Doesn’t look like any excessive movement was evident in the tracks? Who knows. There was probably a little more grease in that’s now all over the back of the engine, but won’t be much.
  19. just inspected the failed joint, can’t see anything in the way of anything broken as such, cage is fine. Lots of little metallic slivers around some of the ball bearings though, attempted to reassemble and only 3/6 of the balls would sit firmly in the cage, the others were loose and wouldn’t stay in it, as if they wrre too small. The circlip that holds the end of the shaft in place was there and not damaged. So either excessive wear that’s just caused it to come loose, or this with a combination of being pulled out? First time I’ve looked at one but it seems it should all just be a tight friction fit?
  20. I'm hoping it is just wear, just thought it would be handy to get some opinions on it too, maybe coincidental it's happened at the same time as the suspension changes. Will clean the joint / shaft down and see if I can see any signs of wear or any clues!
  21. It was the drivers side. That's a good point actually. The top engine / gearbox mounts are still the original rubber ones, the lower one is solid but has been for a long time now without issue. I didn't see any obvious damage upon initial inspection. So essentially the thinking is that the bottom of the engine is moving over to the left hand side of the car, but due to the rigid bushes the hub can't move in the same direction, and the splines aren't long enough to allow this range of travel?
  22. Here's the moment it let go. 43350741_539767129781323_7621459667645890560_n.mp4
  23. cj1

    Project Rally lupo!

    we competed in the Adgespeed stages on Sunday, glad to say the coolant cap solved the overheating issue. however we now have another issue. Drivers side driveshaft inner joint failed, not under power either. Either it was worn, or was pulled out. The cage with the balls in was fine too, no cracks. will post some pictures of this later but at the minute I'm stumped. Could adjusting the camber to -1.5 deg make the driveshaft too short by moving the hub outwards? Hmmm.
  24. cj1

    Project Rally lupo!

    Geometry finally done. Camber and toe sorted prior to adjustment, one wheel was on +1,5 and the other -1.5... Knew hitting a kerb would have moved it!
  25. cj1

    Project Rally lupo!

    I've just had a realisation. Earlier this year I had the coolant cap off and noticed that the rubber ring gasket was cracked, so just took it off. Thinking about it now, I'd be willing to bet this is related to the overheating. Works out perfectly timing wise, and would explain why pressure testing through the expansion bottle was always fine... I so hope the new one I've ordered fixes it! (I'll write more about the ARB soon )

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