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cj1

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Posts posted by cj1

  1. Hi, 

    I think I've deduced the answer to this one myself, however is there a difference between the 1.0AUC Clutch and the 1.4 16v you'd use with an AFH engine?

    They're the same diameter from what I can see but different part numbers. I'm more curious as I think I've put a 1.0 clutch on my AFH and in less than 100 competitive miles it's now slipping!

    Not a topic I'm overly knowledgeable on so any informed input would be appreciated!

  2. On 3/9/2022 at 8:50 AM, mk2 said:

    I could be wrong, but I think there are calibration settings coded into the dash to set the full and empty points for the tank level indicator. I'm sure it's possible to 'tweak' the settings if your gauge is out. 

    A quick way round it would be to simply bend the float arm a bit (bend it up). The gauge empty position is more useful than full, so you could adjust for that?

    Sorry but that doesn’t answer the question. Thanks though. 

  3. Hi again all. Thought I'd return for a bit of a discussion.

    It's becoming more apparent that VW are dropping items from production / stock, and as such some parts are harder to come by. I thought it would be interesting to try and compile a somewhat list of those "Rare" parts, whether they simply be OEM replacement parts, or even aftermarket ones. 

    So if I kick it off:

    • Lupo GTI Ball Joints
    • ABT Grilles
    • Lupo GTI Headlight Washer Jets & Covers

     

  4. 3 hours ago, mk2 said:

    Don't use LED interior lamps. The CCU has a dimmer function that relies on the filament bulb drawing current. When you fit an LED, it kinda flickers... not good. Standard bulbs are still the best (old tech!).

    In the words of Donald Trump, "Fake News". 

    Fitted an LED panel to replace my interior and had no flickering issues. Even when I did this some years back on my first Lupo I had no issues just with a regular festoon LED. 

    Although, I will caveat that with some do stay lit very dimly when the light is still turned off. Soon fixed this with a resistor across the +ve & -ve of the light. 

  5. 2 hours ago, mk2 said:

    Can't play the vid, but me thinks it may just need a deep clean with some brake and clutch cleaner (including the short lengths of bowden cable). Then once you've found where the sticking point is spray some lube on. I can't believe I'm telling you this as you know more than I do... :)

    ah, unless the bits of plastic (sliders) that the glass mounts into are running at an angle making them jam? Seriously, they should be finger tip effort to move them without glass.

    Aha, the window regulators are too fiddly for me! Not a problem on the rally car with polycarbonate windows.. maybe that’s the way to go lol.

    I’ll do some more fiddling around with the reg and see what I can do to free it up. 

  6. Hello,

    recently replaced the regulator in my drivers side window and used the original motor. The window is very slow to go up and down, even without the glass in the regulator takes a while to go up. The motor also overheats during the process.

    wondering where is best to get replacements? Other than VW who want £280 a side including discount ...

  7. 1 hour ago, LR5V said:

    Looking good - any plans to reduce the tyre to arch height? 

    Did you get your diff installed in the old box?

    I wondered how long until someone noticed it...

    Yeah eventually I'll be lowering ever so slightly (30mm probably max) - there is quite a big gap. probably not aided by the 195/45/15 tyres... 

     

    Not yet, still got the box sat here waiting to get it down there :)

  8. 27 minutes ago, LR5V said:

    Anything left to rebuild?

    seems like you have done everything

    Nothing at all! All the little issues the car had have now been solved... So once it's painted can finally enjoy it without being annoyed by something not being quite right! :):)

    • Like 1
  9. Update since Feb. Fixed another set of small yet annoying issues.

    • Steering Column was loose and make a bit of a "clunking" feeling when turning, turns out this was the column not being held tightly by the bolt that holds it to the chassis. Tightened this and all is well. 
    • Door check strap replaced
    • Rear brakes stripped and rebuilt to stop them binding. 
    • All heater controls now working properly as they should.
    • Full service
    • Cambelt & Water pump change. 

    Finally ordered some new wheels after deciding a refurb of the Bathursts wasn't worth it given the condition they were in. They should be here this week. The car is having a full respray next week to sort out all of the scratches and dents over the car, hopefully after then it should be pretty much perfect. 

    • Like 2
  10. 3 hours ago, imaparana said:

    the teamdynamics i run are 15x7 ET40, i ran them like this for years but after my first rally i had to roll the arches as had clearance issues with the arches.

    So probably would hold out for the ET40 unless you want to roll your arches a fair bit

    Wonder if that's more to the use, I have some series rubbing issues on the rally car too, this is just a road car so may well be OK... 

    1 hour ago, Skajme said:

    i run 16x7.5 et35 on mine with zero issues or scrubbing. You will be fine

    That's handy to know. Lowered too? 

  11. Update. I investigated all parts of the suspension underneath... 

    everything appeared fine with no obvious play in anything. Took the ARB bushes out and whilst certainly the original ones, they weren’t really worn at all. 
     

    got someone (from the same household!!) to sit in the car and turn the wheel whilst I had a poke around. Nothing under the car, steering rack etc.

    And then being out the car was when I saw it, the steering column column visibly moves slightly when it makes the noise. It’s coming from the steering column for sure, I’d say it’s loose somewhere in the region of the black plastics covering the ignition barrel etc..

     

     

  12. Gearstick doing absolutely nothing. Given I can get it to do it at really low speeds I'd be very, very surprised if this was gearbox mount related. 

    isolating one side sounds like a great idea. Will try and do that. 

    Thanks @Rich - Never considered those an option. I'll jack the car up and take a look. I think I have some brand new powerflex ones sat around in the spares bin so will fit them and see what happens. 

  13. I've read a lot of topics on this, but none seem to actually cure the issue.

    So, is a knocking feeling in Lupo GTI "normal"? Is there a cure to this? Does anyone else have the same issue?

    Recently changed the top mounts and it's still there. More noticeable at lower speeds but is ever present anyway. Just feels like a quick skip in the steering wheel, a knocking feeling that doesn't seem to translate to anything on the road, as in it doesn't have a negative impact.

    Also seems to do it when going over speed bumps etc... Whatever it is, it's driving me mad! 

     

    Edit: Car has also recently had new bottom arms, ball joints,  and ARB drop links

  14. On 3/4/2020 at 8:40 AM, mk2 said:

    I wonder what @cj1 thinks.... He races lupos, so knows all the inside goss.

    Personally, I think the price is far too high. 

    For 10k you could build one yourself to exactly how you want it, and also keep it legal to go on the road. This is going to end up sat in a garage somewhere collecting dust... 

  15. On 3/2/2020 at 8:43 PM, Skajme said:

    I use Bosch A928S wipers, they're 21 and 19 inch which I believe is the same as the GTI ones. I'm sure i originally found the info for them on here somewhere

    Useful info. Looks to be the correct fitting too! Thanks for that.

    Don't see why they had to be different to the other models tbh... 

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