cj1

I would have been inclined to think that also but I’m not too sure. It seems to clunk in a straight line too with no steering input.

Clunking randomly over bumps etc and then noticed this when I stopped. And a weird whirrring sound when turning heavily to the right. At first I put the clunking down to the diff that’s in the car but seemingly not! Not had time to properly inspect, but sounds like a ball joint, right? A2FA1568-5F4C-483B-A84E-C2A9FA4EFF25.MOV

Yep. I did fear that £65 seemed a bit too good to be true. So I've got a new OEM one on order. Fingers crossed we don't have any further issues!

So, update. Did a rally at Oulton Park over the weekend. Drivers side shaft was completely fine. I had a moment where I slid into a barrier, and it was tight to get out of. I ended up giving it full acceleration of full lock to the right, boom went the outer CV on the passenger side (Stage 3). Got back to service and replaced for a new (Refurbished unit by Shaftec) shaft, which lasted less than 100 metres. Inner joint failed. Can only assume they're terrible, or I was supplied the wrong one. Fitted an old OEM one I have and all was fine for the remaining 5 stages (Out of 9). So my conclusion: OEM Shafts > Re-manufactured All is well with the car following fitting spacers. Passenger side failure was due to driver error and bad parts.

Thanks. I know I'm overthinking it but had a few issues with the car lately. The confusion all started when I bought 6N0 407 452X - Listed as a Polo/Lupo/Arosa shaft. I guess it's measuring tape time.

So I have confirmed that indeed the polo with AFH engine had a different part number to that of the Lupo so they aren't the same. There's not a definitive answer I can find on other threads so hoping this serves as a helpful prompt for anyone else looking to do this swap. So a Petrol Lupo driveshaft, in a Lupo, with a polo AFH engine, would be the correct one to use, correct?

Curiosity got the better of me and yes most I’ve found also list them as compatible for both the Lupo and Polo. Also measured strut top centres between Lupo and 6N2, both were 1030mm. So if it is indeed running a wider track and thus longer driveshafts I can only see this difference being in the bottom ball joints similar to how it is achieved on a Lupo GTI.

That’s exactly what someone hiding would say...

Me too. Precise answer, thanks! Lupo one it shall be!

Holy thread resurrection! So, I’m now looking to get brand new driveshafts as a precaution. Which would you go for? The polo ones originally used on the AFH model. Or the Lupo petrol ones? I can’t find any lengths anywhere at the moment and don’t have any to compare.

Actually, they aren't very pricey new from VW. Less than £30 IIRC.

Just going to be the one to say it as Rich's detailed eye may have missed this one. The C Pillar trim - why didn't you remove that and paint behind it?

Nope... That's a "I snapped one wiper arm taking it off so it currently lives on the road car, lets hope it doesn't rain on this rally" conversion

Update, I measured the floor to middle of front arch height on the TDI I have at standard ride height, and compared to the rally car. When taking into consideration wheel sizes, I calculated that the lupo is effectively only ~30mm lower than standard. So doubt there's any issue there. Went and did some track time at local race circuit, giving it the "beans" as it were on a lot of lock quite often and no issue. For now we can file this under: Case resolved with 6mm driveshaft washers.

Ahhh NOS. Got a driveshaft the other day for £55, boxed all it's life. Can't argue with that!

Speakers facing outwards, playing engine sounds on repeat

Brand new shaft found on eBay for £55! Bargain. Been boxed since the guy got it! 6N0 407 452. Seems to be one of the petrol 6N ones so should be the same! 🙂

Had the alignment checked. All seems pretty good with that! Next event is the 3rd November so let’s see how we get on if anything I’m now more concerned about the TDI and how it gets away with the angle! Ha cheers rich!

Haha, I’d never noticed! Just had a look at the one I have here!

Passenger side was pulled out a little but not as much as the drivers one. I agree you’d think it should be fine. Okay it’s on coilovers but it isn’t really much lower than standard ride height anyway. As far as I know, all 085 boxes share the same casing and drive flanges. Shafts are the same across all of the petrol lupos too I think. It does make me wonder though, what if this is in fact normal, but realistically who’s going to check the plunge on their driveshafts? Maybe the use of the car is what has exaggerated the impact. Cant see anything different elsewhere. I know you can get different gearbox mounts, but again as the casing is the same on all of the boxes, so long as both the chassis and the gearbox part of this are the correct pair then it should always align to the same point.

Nope, tried a few shafts now, all the same. One off the polo the engine came with and the original one out of the 1.0 Lupo. Engine mounts are fine too. Aye. Did it on a lift and a big block of wood under the ball joint! Same effect I guess. I can’t fully work it out and I don’t have the original suspension to weigh it up with really but something in the set up is pulling the drivers side one out further than it should be. Ill be getting new wheel bearings soon anyway so will be able to see what they’re like soon.

Ok. Yes, it was pulled out is the summary. it seems there’s no float on the outer cv so it’s hard to weigh it all up in place. But it’s very evident that tightening the outer cv into the hub that that action pulls the inner cv to the maximum of its travel. That combined with turning in either direction pulls on this joint even more. Anyhow, we machined some 6mm spacers to sit on the back of the wheel bearing and push the inner cv back towards the gearbox a bit, all seems okay and can’t feel it pulling to the maximum of the inner cv float. Job done for now, let’s see how we get on!

Really loving the attention to detail on this. looking good. What did you get the front alignment set to?

That's a very good point actually and one of the reasons I came to here to try and gather others' opinions. I'll check the outer CV, your explanation would make more sense than the seemingly undamaged inner joint simply going back together. If the outer can't move, it is going to affect the plunge on the inner too, pulling it out as soon as we turned left. Would also explain why it happened even though the car wasn't under power at all... Will report back my findings!

Haven't inspected it yet. Plan for this weekend is to refit original wishbone bushes, remove spring from strut, refit strut and check for lateral movement in the shaft through all suspension and steering travel. Will inspect the outer joint too