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cj1

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Everything posted by cj1

  1. I didn’t notice any. Yep time for a new one, I was more curious if this was due to wear and tear or if there’s an underlying issue somewhere. Given what I’ve seen I’m leaning towards normal wear for a shaft that’s done 70k miles, 1000-2000 probably being beaten on rallies. Thinking brand new OEM ones which should do us well for a lot more events.
  2. Doesn’t look like any excessive movement was evident in the tracks? Who knows. There was probably a little more grease in that’s now all over the back of the engine, but won’t be much.
  3. just inspected the failed joint, can’t see anything in the way of anything broken as such, cage is fine. Lots of little metallic slivers around some of the ball bearings though, attempted to reassemble and only 3/6 of the balls would sit firmly in the cage, the others were loose and wouldn’t stay in it, as if they wrre too small. The circlip that holds the end of the shaft in place was there and not damaged. So either excessive wear that’s just caused it to come loose, or this with a combination of being pulled out? First time I’ve looked at one but it seems it should all just be a tight friction fit?
  4. I'm hoping it is just wear, just thought it would be handy to get some opinions on it too, maybe coincidental it's happened at the same time as the suspension changes. Will clean the joint / shaft down and see if I can see any signs of wear or any clues!
  5. It was the drivers side. That's a good point actually. The top engine / gearbox mounts are still the original rubber ones, the lower one is solid but has been for a long time now without issue. I didn't see any obvious damage upon initial inspection. So essentially the thinking is that the bottom of the engine is moving over to the left hand side of the car, but due to the rigid bushes the hub can't move in the same direction, and the splines aren't long enough to allow this range of travel?
  6. Here's the moment it let go. 43350741_539767129781323_7621459667645890560_n.mp4
  7. Hello, Over the weekend I had an inner cv joint fail, not under power, when downchanging to second gear on entry to a left hand corner. The cage wasn't cracked, it seemed like the shaft had been pulled outwards slightly. I'd like some opinions on what potentially could have caused this. I've done 21 rallies event free on this shaft, so potentially it's just wear. However what has been changed lately: Powerflex Black Bushes (front & rear) fitted to both front wishbones. Camber set to -1.5 deg negative. Tracking is 0/Parallell, not that this would really impact it but still. So the bushes did cause the tracking to be WAY out, which doesn't usually happen if we just change a suspension arm. And I've seen people using this level of camber before without issue. But I guess I have the following questions now: Could the stiffness, or slight difference in dimensions of the wishbone bushes cause this? Am I running too much camber? Is this simply normal wear after some competitive use? Any advice appreciated. Ride height is relatively normal, not excessively low. Plan is to get the car on the ramp and check for lateral movement in the shaft. I'm thinking revert to standard suspension arm bushes (Not liking the powerflex ones anyway) and set the camber to maybe less of an angle at -0.5 or something. We've not hit anything to damage the subframe either. @Rich, @mk2, any ideas?
  8. we competed in the Adgespeed stages on Sunday, glad to say the coolant cap solved the overheating issue. however we now have another issue. Drivers side driveshaft inner joint failed, not under power either. Either it was worn, or was pulled out. The cage with the balls in was fine too, no cracks. will post some pictures of this later but at the minute I'm stumped. Could adjusting the camber to -1.5 deg make the driveshaft too short by moving the hub outwards? Hmmm.
  9. Geometry finally done. Camber and toe sorted prior to adjustment, one wheel was on +1,5 and the other -1.5... Knew hitting a kerb would have moved it!
  10. I've just had a realisation. Earlier this year I had the coolant cap off and noticed that the rubber ring gasket was cracked, so just took it off. Thinking about it now, I'd be willing to bet this is related to the overheating. Works out perfectly timing wise, and would explain why pressure testing through the expansion bottle was always fine... I so hope the new one I've ordered fixes it! (I'll write more about the ARB soon )
  11. I don't really have much to add value to this thread, but you've put me at ease slightly anyway. My breather/ oil seperator had a very small amount of white "mucus" in when I replaced it last week, and it caused me more concern than was necessary really. As Mk2 said, some pipe and either into a bottle or down under the car will sort the job out!
  12. One does have to wonder why... Intercept the live or grounds to the coilpack. Add switch.
  13. Some say he is still looking for it to this day....
  14. cj1

    GTI Upgrades

    Drop the sump and check it out. Easy enough to do!
  15. The door ones or the grab handles on the roof?
  16. Yes, not a lupo. 1.0 AUC. Shares manies of the same parts and has the same interior. All available. Silver.
  17. Since May there have been some significant changes to the car. Polybushed the front bottom arms (The plates are a bit of a PITA to fit at the same time as pushing the arm in!). Gone back to the standard 18mm arb, the 22mm one seemed too stiff, improved turn in by reverting back. Been overheating slightly but think this may have been fan related. Caused us to retire from one event. Still going well!
  18. cj1

    GTI Upgrades

    Yes. What engine is it? Send me a message. (Sorry for thread hijack)
  19. Just tried to message you but it wouldn't let me, inbox full? No idea about the arosa headlining either!
  20. cj1

    GTI Upgrades

    I have some powerflex black series 22mm inner ARB bushes if you're interested?
  21. I'm kinda tempted. You're about 2 hours away from me, but seems worth it. Nice road trip for the lesser used TDI!
  22. Hello, can anyone answer whether different models have different speed fans? I took the one from an SDI I have and put it on the rally car in place of the original one that came off a 1.0 AUC Model. I can't help but think the cooling has suffered since. This is the only thing that has changed, I run no thermostat too and water is pumping around freely. I've pressure tested the system and that's fine too. No leaks. Also, I've just acquired a 6N Polo with a 1.0 AUC engine fitted, and the fan in that has 3 wires going to it instead of the 2 on the Lupo. I would have thought these would have had the same fan on them? TL:DR; what's the way to get the highest speed factory fan on the car / what model does it come from?
  23. I've always found that the knobs aren't really that great. Can't beat just pushing the glass to required position. Realistically how often does the mirror need to be moved anyway is the way I look at it. Retrofitting is always possible.
  24. cj1

    Drivers side wiper arm

    Good point, just really struggling for time at the moment. Suppose I could ring one ahead of going there!
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