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Trx 33

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Trx 33 last won the day on February 15

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About Trx 33

  • Birthday 08/21/93

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Morpeth

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  • My Car Diary
    http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/102089-dans-spanish-armada/
  • Currently Driving
    Seat Arosa 1.4 TDI, Seat Ibiza Cupra 1.8T

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3758 profile views
  1. Lupo gti

    Number 41 Strut cap - 6N0412359A Give TPS a ring on tyne tunnel trading estate, when i got a pair they were only a couple of quid.
  2. Dan's Spanish Armada

    Also my rear caliper sprung a leak, so while i was at it i gave her a deep clean. Dis a bit of colouring in too. Scrubs up alright for a 16 year old daily.
  3. Dan's Spanish Armada

    Its been a while but heres a long overdue update. New shoes and new tooters
  4. monious's canica blue arosa 1.4 16V sport

    Love it! Have a dig around and get some of those pictures back, I'd love to have a look around the car. Can't say I've seen a Canica sport before. Reminds me of my mates on those teddies
  5. Dan's Spanish Armada

    Did a thing too, can you spot it?
  6. Dan's Spanish Armada

    Parmos are for southerners
  7. Dan's Spanish Armada

    Cheers guys, really appreciate it, trying to keep things somewhat oem and clean. I was trying to work out how to light it, the thought crossed my mind of making up a plexiglass spacer for the sub and lighting that. Hiding the lights in the rear panels just looks cleaner. I've got the lights wired to my neons at the moment but there's some more Bluetooth controllers on the way so I can run them independently
  8. Dan's Spanish Armada

    We're in somewhat subtle but I like it
  9. Dan's Spanish Armada

    Work in progress.
  10. Dan's Spanish Armada

    I had the dash out to try a couple of experimental things, didn't really work out but it gave me great access to the wiring loom The alloys really are letting the side down but i think i'll try to get my mitts on some new centre caps then a lick of paint, then they'll be minters Saving up for bumper resprays now, rear upper bumper is atrocious and the front isn't much better, going to go with the black magic pearl for the front lower valance.
  11. Dan's Spanish Armada

    Well its been a while but i've been fairly busy. Tidied up some wiring and coded in cruise control Fully rewired the neons with tyco amp connectors and automotive grade multicore wire And the biggest (and most expensive) thing, no more rusty arches Had them rolled up flush with the outer skin for a bit better fitment and with the 20mm spacers they don't scrub anymore. Still not the best fitment in the world but its got a much better stance at the rear. I'll finish this instalment with the obligatory reflection shots Who says you cant polish a turd.
  12. Airbag retrofit

    Okie dokie, little update. Ive been looking at the wiring diagram and it would appear i would only need to graft in the extra bags and sensors, all of the rest of the wiring should be there. Id hate to go to the trouble of wiring everything up only to find the airbag control module is coded specifically to the donor. Some wires also go to the central locking module, i tried swapping these over a little while back to get a flip key coded to the car with no luck, the connectors had different locating tabs, i shaved a bit off the terminals to get them to fit with no luck, this unit will not have to be swapped over too will it?
  13. Seat arosa

    Lovely colour car, quite rare.
  14. Retrofit Heated Electric Wing Mirrors Special Tools: Uninsulated (W) Crimp tool Multimeter Pin removal tool (can be made fairly easily with a bit of fiddling around) Shopping list: 8X Various coloured 0.5mm sq cable approx 4-5 meters to be safe. (I used 1mm sq. cable and found it to be on the thick side for the switch) 2X Various coloured 1mm sq. cable approx 5-6 meters to be safe. (These lengths are just a guideline) 10X Female 2.8mm Terminals (Allowing for spares) 10X Male 2.8mm Terminals (Allowing for spares) 10X Male 1.5mm Terminals (Allowing for spares) 5X Heat shrink Butt Connector (Optional - solder can be used) 1/2X Loom tape (Not essential but finishes it off nicely. The linked tape is not OEM but you can find the OEM stuff on ebay - Tesa loom tape) 2X GTI or sport (OEM electric mirror) door harnesses 2X Manual mirror blanking plates 1X Electric mirror switch 2X Electric mirrors Your old door looms The latter of this list should be easy enough to get your hands on if somebody is breaking a sport or a GTI The mirror back cans can be swapped over easily. Door Looms And Mirrors: First off is the easy bit, swapping over the door looms and mirrors. This is pretty self explanatory - remove the old and fit the new, the manual adjuster plates should pull directly back. They are a pain. I must emphasise that the door looms are a must as they contain conduit that routes the wires safely up the door. Making a New Loom: For this you will need access to the back of the fuse box, the A pillar interconnects and behind the centre console for the switch, you (may) need to remove the passenger side trims up to the rear door cards and both sides of the dash so i advise stripping it all out at once. Firstly start with either the drivers or passenger side mirror wiring. Crimp the corresponding sized terminals onto the wires and push them into the BLUE connector block. To push them into the block you will need to release the PURPLE locking tab by pushing it in, you may need to give them a gentle tug with some pliers to get them to click in. You should now have a bundle of 3 wires inserted into the correct block, loosely route these to where they will go and cut to length, leaving some extra length in case of complications. Repeat this for the other side. Passenger side door: Drivers side door: Pin 1 - Black + Grey Pin 1 - Grey + Purple Pin 7 - Yellow + Black Pin 7 - Purple Pin 6 - Grey Pin 6 - Grey Heater Wiring: The heater wiring uses the thicker 1mm sq. cable. The way i routed this was a direct copy of the OEM layout. You can change the route if you like but i will not be held responsible for any altercations that may occur, USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT. I stuck to OEM spec because i figured they did it like that for a reason. You will need to run a new 5A fuse into the fuse box to number 18. This live feed gets tapped from the heated rear windscreen fused live, the OEM location for this is behind the rear passenger pocket under the door card as shown below. In the above picture you can see where the Black + Red and Black + Green wires for the heater circuit fit into the fuse box. Fuse Box: Pin 18A - Black + Green Pin 18B - Black + Red Rail A is for the 'feed' or 'live' wires, Rail B is the corresponding fused side. Once again, i recommend crimping the correct terminal onto the wire and inserting it into the terminal block first, then routing it as desired and cutting with length to spare. The fuse box PURPLE locking tab must be pulled out, this tab will pull out TWO clicks, you only want to pull it out ONE to allow pins to be inserted. The heater circuit runs through the BLACK connector block in the A pillar interconnect. Passenger side door heater circuit: Drivers side door heater circuit: Pin 1 - Brown Pin 1 - Brown Pin 5 - Black + Red Pin 5 - Black + Red The Black + Red wires are twinned behind the passenger side dashboard trim (this area contains multiple harness connections) so run your wires to this point and either crimp or solder them together, there should be three, drivers door, passenger door and fuse box pin 18B. Run the Black + Green wire up the passenger side and twin it with the heated rear screen wire (or alternatively twin it at the back of the heated rear windscreen switch pin 6 (The thicker black cable) Use a multimeter to confirm) The switch: The final part is wiring the switch. The connector that goes into the back of the switch just so happens to be the same fitment as the connecter in the any of the electric window switches (hence needing your old door looms). The connector housing is slightly different (straight down instead of to an L like the below picture) As you can see below, using the electric window connector, the wires hang down, so you will most likely need to trim a bit out of your switch panel underneath the mirror switch to get it to fit. As you can see above, in the middle slot, there is a blank pin. You can steal the blank pins out of the window connectors so you should be able to make a complete plug connector to either solder or crimp on to. Switch connector: Pin 1 - N/A Pin 2 - Grey - Twin both of the GREY wires you ran from either door Pin 3 - Brown - Earth (OEM earth is behind the passenger side dashboard trim) Pin 4 - Grey + Blue - Illumination (OEM connection is behind the passenger side dashboard trim) Pin 5 - Black - Live feed from fuse 26B Pin 6 - Grey + Black Pin 7 - Purple Pin 8 - N/A Pin 9 - Black +Yellow Pin 10 - Grey + Purple The neatest way to get a 12V feed from fuse box pin 26B is to remove that pin and cut the connector off at the base, bare the wire, twist your switch feed to that wire and crimp a new terminal on. Re-insert the terminal back into the fuse box and tape it up. You can either run a new earth or twin it with another, just make sure to check with a multimeter first. Grey + Blue wires behind the dash are most likely illumination wires so you can find and splice into another, more convenient illumination wire if you please, just make sure to check with a multimeter before cutting things up. Test your mirrors and heating elements to make sure everything works as expected. If everything goes to plan, box your car back up and enjoy your fancy new mirrors. I have made this guide as a few people have asked me now so i hope this helps. I have tried to be as comprehensive and clear as possible but if i have missed anything out or been unclear in sections just drop me a message and ill try to be of assistance.
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