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lupo 1.7sdi

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Everything posted by lupo 1.7sdi

  1. The VW lupo 1.4 tdi AMF does not have a fuel pump in the tank. Remove the plug from the coolant temperature sensor (see the positioning in the picture) and see how it starts like this (after it starts, put the plug back in)
  2. It's ok If you take the box down, change also the element no. 11 schimbare furca.pdf
  3. In pdf you have all the necessary codes Drive shaft lupo codes.pdf
  4. and that would be an indication that you rather have a connection problem. I have had problems with the alternator a few times, but it has never manifested itself like this. Each time the charging voltage dropped (I have a voltmeter at the cigarette lighter socket and I can see the battery voltage all the time), but the engine never stopped. Only once did the relay suddenly burn out and my battery light on the dashboard came on.
  5. It cannot be recharged by itself. The voltage can still increase after you have removed a consumer, but in no case after it is almost completely empty. I think you have a connection problem. First of all, check the connection to the earth next to the battery and the condition of the connections to the fuses on the battery (they look like blades attached with screws). Unfold them, clean the oxides well with contact spray, then put them back. A multimeter would be helpful in locating the problem.Do not replace the alternator unless necessary.
  6. Try with a rectangular rod not round.
  7. Depends on the engine code. Only AUC engine has EGR. Engines with code AER, AHT, ALD, ALL, ANV have no EGR valve. This regarding the 1L engines.
  8. It's the same system https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/brake_systems/brake_brake_mechanics/repairing_front_brakes/repairing_front_brakes_vw_i_and_vw_ii_brake_caliper/
  9. Sorry for inattention. Unfortunately the information about the crankshaft is missing from the workshop manual for this engine and for the 1l engines. Maybe it's the same with the camshaft. I don't know if it's connected, but all these engines have aluminum engine blocks. I noticed that another 1.4 engine, AEX, which was built with both aluminum and iron engine block, information on mounting and dismounting the crankshaft is present only in the iron engine block.
  10. Because it doesn't have it. They are integrated in the cylinder head cover and in the cylinder head. AUD-camshaft.pdf
  11. The part no. for RHD is 6N2422893J or 6N2422893K for car with air condit.
  12. You need to adjust the gear change mechanism Adjusting gear change mechanism.pdf
  13. Replace these two fuel filter valve rings if you didn't when you replaced the filter. Observe the position of the colors and be careful when changing them to avoid damaging the rings and the valve.
  14. You need this tool https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-54150-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000I14RY6/ref=pd_lpo_263_img_2/143-9888211-7870155?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I14RY6&pd_rd_r=e3c43068-3a02-4fe7-9dac-f76a260a70fd&pd_rd_w=U4qc9&pd_rd_wg=epHb7&pf_rd_p=fb1e266d-b690-4b4f-b71c-bd35e5395976&pf_rd_r=T0WGEH4CD0655ZFSQR1P&psc=1&refRID=T0WGEH4CD0655ZFSQR1P
  15. https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/103569-how-to-sdi-cambelt-change/
  16. 60 Nm + 1/4 turn (90 °) further Must be renew.
  17. The ALD engine doesn't have EGR. First check the ignition on cylinder 4. It would be useful if you posted the errors as given by the tester.
  18. I only used OEM G50 (this is written in manual) and I haven't had any problems with the box so far. Now the mileage is about 400k km (so about 250k miles) and I did the first oil change at about 200k km. I've changed it two or three times until now, I don't remember exactly. In general, the gearboxes on the Lupo/Arosa wich are type 085 were filled with G50 except for the gearboxes that equipped the 1.4 74kw engines that require G51. Now VW recommend another type G052178A2 but I didn't trust him. Here is a discussion about this problem. If you'll decide to use an aftermarket oil, be sure to use a GL4 or GL4 +, in no case GL5.
  19. It is not easy to remove the oil seal. for this you need one or two thin screwdrivers (about 2mm in diameter), very sharp and hard (the oil seal has a metal ring under the plastic cover, a ring that must be perforated to hang and remove the oil seal). Basic rules: - Must not scratch the shaft (wrap thin layer of insulation tape around shaft). If this happens it will leak permanently. - Fill space between sealing lip and dust lip with grease - Do not touch the screw B. if necessary mark its position, otherwise you will need adjusting selector mechanism Selector finger
  20. Definitely not ignition on, before removing the plug from the ECU remove the minus terminal from the battery . Basically you measure the continuity of some wires not the functioning of a component
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