Skezza

I saw that before. What put me off doing that was the fact that it's possible to actually damage the lock mechanism beyond repair if it's not reassembled correctly. I could probably do it if I took it slowly and followed the guide though. As you said, perhaps the new (old) lock was just as worn as the one we removed. The old one couldn't be repaired as there were no fractured joints, but perhaps this one is repairable. I'm still wary about how to take it out, but perhaps it's a job for a nice summers day.

Well, assuming it fails in the usual way, it will give off no reading whatsoever to the ECU, so it will constantly see the engine as cold. To compensate, it will run a rich mixture, all the time, because there will be no change in the readings. There may be an increase in revs (couldn't tell you for sure as I've not had one go on me yet), but I assume the engine performs fine when you start it early in the morning, then as you get up to normal operating temperature, it will begin to feel sluggish due to overfueling, and then start cutting out. You might even struggle to start it again after it's warmed up. If I was you, I'd eventually change it but don't break your back to do it. If your Lupo is running fine right now then there's nothing to worry about. Just because one part has failed doesn't mean the other part will. It's also a very common issue on VW's around that era and it seems in most cases the sender to the dials packs up while the sender to the ECU remains working. When I got my first Lupo back in 2007, it didn't read anything to the temperature dial. I got it fixed... last year, as in over 4 years after I got it lol, and to be honest, I only got it fixed because the coolant level sensor packed up which meant I had absolutely no reading to the dash if something went badly wrong with my coolant. Upon being told it would cost a minimum £70 to fix the coolant level sensor due to it being submerged within the tank, I removed the connector plug, arc'd the two connections using a piece of thin plastic coated wire, plugged it back using a piece of thin tape to stop it sliding back out (got me through an MOT like that) which turned the light off on the dashboard and had the temperature sensor replaced for £15 Cushty

Never been a huge fan of subs, but I like what you've done there! You could easily wrap that in something like carbon vinyl or even felt. Main thing is it looks very nicely mounted!

Can this cause an MOT fail, because the spread of light won't be as great as when they are frosted?

Already done that, but I'm not sure that really explains what's happened and why it's happened twice, in almost identical ways Is it the vibrations fracturing the circuit board? My Lupo is an SDI, and it does vibrate a lot when idle, being a NA diesel. It just seems strange that it came to me with a fault, and it's developed the same one within months of it being fixed. I will not fix it again though, ultimately, it's never stopped me locking my car and I was stupid to get it fixed in the first place. Although it was a cheap enough fix. What is worse, the engineer who fixed it binned the old lock mechanism I know these lock mechanisms are particularly troublesome and have a reputation for packing up, which is why VW scrapped them and designed the one found in modern VW's If there is a company producing aftermarket lock mechanisms that will fit OEM into a Lupo (bit like aftermarket Brake Light Switch), with the defects ironed out I might go for one of those in 12 months or something. I won't do it now, because it's just pointless. It really wasn't worth fixing to begin with. I noticed these on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-FRONT-LEFT-NSF-PASSENGER-SIDE-BRAND-NEW-/321088219092?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ALupo&hash=item4ac25967d4 These are brand new, so I wonder if the problems were eventually fixed? If the current lock mech develops any more faults, I might purchase one of these and take it back to the same guy, instead of a replacement out of an old Lupo, which is what I got this time round. Still a bit sad though, feel like I'm chasing faults now! Edit: Additionally, I wonder how hard this would be to fit. Seeing as I wouldn't be disassembling the old one surely I wouldn't need to go back, it looks pretty plug and play, although it's missing the hook, perhaps I'd have to remove the old hook and use that.

Hey guys, Earlier this year, I bought my Lupo, knowing that the passenger side central locking was hit and miss. The car would lock from the drivers side, but wouldn't lock or unlock from the passenger side and the anti-hijack function caused the passenger side to lock then unlock immediately. I had it fixed about a month or two ago and all seemed fine... till today. I tried the anti-hijack function, once again the symptoms I describe above reappeared. It locked then delocked. I tried to lock it from the passenger side, and it did, successfully, but only unlocked the passenger door. I tried again and it locked again, then unlocked correctly so it's perhaps a very dicky connection. Anyway, the point is my SDI has now swallowed another locking mechanism Is there something I'm missing here? I won't be getting it fixed again until it ****s up for good. I can't afford for it to keep swallowing locks!

Is that base?

You'd have a better chance of converting an SDI or TDi surely?

Take another picture with it secured

There's a few different double dins you can fit. They usually come with a cage, or you can go for the FP-17-00 which makes it look a bit more OEM. I'll upload a few photos of my new one when I get chance. There are companies making replica MFD1's with different software and bigger screen etc, but going for that OEM feel, so you could always go for one of them, then a cage wouldn't be needed. Personally, I've never been that impressed with the MFD1 (I know, I know) but it's up to you really.

Hey, Give it an Italian Tuneup (Basically thrash the arse off it) for half an hour so it's nice and warm. Run the petrol gauge down into the last quarter (Don't let it go into the redline, no need) then fill the tank and perhaps another few minutes of thrashing it. That will clear all the **** out.

I had it done at my local garage, so I'll have a look through my file of receipts tonight to find the exact figure. I think they charged me £50-£60 maybe? The sensors are about 30 quid + 1 hours labour. He also cleaned the throttle body and EGR valve, so when you fit it make sure you do that too.

Ever seen a Ford Ka ?

That second one could be the lambda sensor playing up. I had an issue with it idling super rough, hunting, regularly over-revving and regularly bottoming out when pulling off on hills, turned out the lambda sensor was constantly providing a high output, meaning the engine was only ever providing a lean mixture.

I know someone who totally delocked their car, including boot. Went on holiday and came back to find the battery completely flat. Not fun.

No. The temp sensor has two output readings, one for the dials, one for the ECU. You can drive your car fine with a temperature sensor that has a working reading to ECU but broken to the dials. When it's the other way round, you'll know about it If it bothers you (mine was like that for ages, never bothered me) then replace it, will cost about £15.

I think you have to compromise with these things, I wouldn't mind the gaps as much as some. The only thing, would it affect the release of the airbag?

Plus it usually works out cheaper. OEM stuff seems to sell at ridiculous prices on eBay, Gumtree etc.

Just unnecessary in my opinion, plus I know people who have had remote central locking kits fail and had issues getting into their car. I think remote central locking is fine, but just leave the locks there just in case Dump the second key in a draw somewhere just in case you have to get in your car and haven't got your ignition key. Winner me thinks

Definitely going to hang low as Silver said. Not sure how good it'll sound either, being a 1.0. To be fair, when my exhaust fell off, it sounded kind of nice. Really raspy lol

Year? Engine? Model Type? etc etc etc.

Wow, that looks fantastic. They should have bloody included one as standard! But that looks excellent.

But why would you? Both the beta and gamma units are criminally underpowered. If I remember rightly, the beta unit has a maximum output of about 7 watts or something ridiculous. If I was you, I'd just get yourself a reasonably priced aftermarket head unit. You don't need to smash the bank to get a good quality head unit.

Like 70MPG

I would just get a different key, maybe fit remote central locking, and just not use the spare key. Don't delock!