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Skezza

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Everything posted by Skezza

  1. Skezza

    Engine oil

    VW changed the recommendation a year or two ago didn't they?
  2. I assume this is while stationary yes? Or when moving?
  3. Today. Mine didn't come on. But as soon as I turned a knob, they illuminated. Any ideas?
  4. Yeah exactly. I might ask the seller a question about it, see what he says. I can't tell from the photos where the damage was, but that isn't the point to be honest.
  5. Firstly, I apologize, but I don't know anything in French Sorry The reason it wasn't commercialized in the UK was because there was not a huge interest in green cars... also it's left hand drive. I'm not sure if they could have modified it to work in the UK (I assume they could have... but they didn't), however their new XL1 which is coming in this summer is also a left hand drive with no option of right hand drive... so maybe VW target the European market more than the UK market. So you want the Xenon ones fitted to the normal ones? It is possible and it has been done on this forum, but I think it's quite a job. They have a huge voltage don't they? Something like 10,000 volts so you have to be super careful when working on them.
  6. Well mine has a wire for it, but obviously I haven't fitted the kit yet. It wouldn't be that hard to implement seeing as the connections are down in the foot well.
  7. Good good. Make sure you get a build thread going in the Members Car section
  8. The point is that Insurers will potentially increase the premium while definitely reducing any kind of payout in the event of an accident. It's also downright rude and dishonest. I would say that the car is priced very competitively, if it wasn't a Cat D. As a Cat D, I think it should be reduced. All I hope is someone checks with insurance before buying.
  9. You know what a Barry Boy is surely? Typical example: Tips for being a good Barry Boy: Endeavour to add pointless visual mods that improve absolutely nothing on the car with regards to performance or handling. A large exhaust (multiple cans if possible), a poorly fitted bodykit and a set of poorly designed Multifit Alloys will get you going.Don't declare any of your modifications as that would drastically increase the price of your insurance. Cheap tacky **** from eBay, Poundland and Home Bargains can really speed up the Barrification process!! I'm talking blue LED's on the front windscreen washers, chrome radio antenna's and large tail pipe trims resembling a Heinz Baked Bean tin. Stickers are ok too. But make sure they are tasteless. The last thing you want is a sticker representing a purpose, such as charity... you want stickers of crude phrases and stickmen in implied sexual positions.Why not add a couple of audible mods too? A 'Universal Induction Kit' from Halfords can have your 1 litre beast sounding just like a Ferrari Enzo!Never know when to quit. If it looks ****, then keep going, it's not finished yet. It'll eventually look good... right? (see above)If it doesn't impress the local jail bait trash at McDonalds, then it ain't a Barry car. Sorry.
  10. Wow, talk about some inventive ways (Drill holes here, feed a cable through here). I did a particularly unimpressive way, but easy way. Some might call this lazy. I call it practical and it means I don't have to start cutting up my trim. I had 3 cables to deal with: iPod CableGPS AntennaLine-In CableI loosened off the piece of trim that holds the hazard and demister switches below, and routed the cable through to the back. I fed just enough wire that the iPod could sit in the vent cradle. Same for the Line-In. I coiled them both in the sort of little tray that is below so they are easy to grab. For the GPS, I stuck the Antenna onto the left hand side of the dash so it sat quite neatly (And got perfect reception), then fed as much cable back in behind the hazard switches and up behind the head unit, so it was quite a tight but neat finish, the cable had only a little bit of slack. I used blu-tac to stick the Antenna. I was afraid of using sticky pads in case anyone caught the cable with their hand and ripped it out the antenna. I then re-attached the piece of trim, I screwed up to touch tight so the switches were in no danger of falling but the trim wasn't going to cut the cable. This is a picture of the Green Machine's dash. As you can see, just below the hazard switch to the right, you can see where I coiled the iPod connector wire. Also, you can see how I fitted the GPS antenna so it's nice and tight and wasn't hanging loosely.
  11. Major mods? You aren't Barrying it up are you?
  12. Yeah they always snap. I've broken every one in my left door panel. It's currently only held on by the screws holding the handle in. I do intend on fixing them because I guess they keep a bit of the heat in and stop vibration (although mine don't vibrate anyway)
  13. Take the trim off for the boot to be sure. I wouldn't go any further until you've done that.
  14. Best thing you can do is measure the diameter, I think that's what I did. This is a bit smaller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-1-8-I-D-NITRILE-RUBBER-FUEL-TUBING-PETROL-LINE-HOSE-/250582803821 3.5mm, it might have been what I used, I can't really remember. Remember, it needs to shrink after it's warmed up, otherwise it won't work. If it fits over it nice and snug when it's cold, then I promise you it will eventually fall off. You need it to be too small when it's cold but when heated up in boiling water, fit over with a bit of flexibility.
  15. Remove the plastic covering on the boot lid and check the pipe hasn't come disconnected. Mine did. There is like a L shaped clip that plugs it into the washer itself. Mine split in the cold and it was spraying water down the back of the plastic case into the boot space. I couldn't get a replacement L shaped clip so I took some of that rubber tubing (can't remember the diameter, pretty small though, smaller than the nozzle obviously), placed it in boiling water for 1 minute, so it was nice, flexible and had expanded so it would fit, connected the nozzle to the heat shrink pipe and connected the pipe to the entrance, let it settle for about 10 minutes at which point it sealed really tight. I never had a problem with it again. I reckon this would work, but I can't remember the exact diameter I used, sorry. http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/160994842438?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0
  16. I thought VAG-Tacho could re-programme? Anyway, yeah, I'd say get Key Cover from your insurer. You could get a non-chipped copy, so that you can at least gain entry to the car, then if you ever do lose the immobilizer key, you can still shift the car using a tow or whatever.
  17. You want to be careful running a permanent live. Don't know what your head unit is, but I've seen a few of them that don't fully switch off on permanent live, they have a sort of standby function but it's meant for when the car is running but the HU is switched off
  18. I never knew about the closing windows using a key trick. Going to try later
  19. Sounds good. You could possibly earth on the adapter? or one of the lock bolts behind it.
  20. Great questions: 1. Generally speaking yes, parts aren't exactly an issue with Lupo's and if you look there's plenty of people manufacturing aftermarket replacements for bodywork as well as mechanical. I've never found it particularly hard to find a part. 2. Very very reliable. Even the little 1L's are reliable. I thrashed the arse off mine in truth and I never had ANY problems with the engine. I've seen newer cars struggling to start in the cold, my 1L Lupo started every day, first time. Great car, and I miss it a lot. I now have an SDI, which in similar fashion starts every time beautifully. In truth, the only thing that goes on Lupo's are disposable parts and you'll have that on any car. 3. No chance. They are considered a blot on Volkswagen's rather successful history. They were a car built to a budget and I've heard from more than one source that they used parts manufactured by another company on the cheap (not naming names) which is where the build quality issues arise from. 4. Check the gearbox obviously, also check the clutch, it shouldn't be stiff. Anything else should be easily noticeable, such as an EGR valve issues. Any misfiring might be a dodgy HT lead. Check for little bubbles of rusting on the roof (as said above near the gutter). You'll find some Lupos have absolutely no rust whatsoever, and others get quite a bit on the roof on one or both sides. Service history. Also, big one, quite serious, ask about the cambelt and ask if they have a stamp or invoice. I bought one with a cambelt that was only a year old, but the seller had no invoice, or stamp to prove this had been done. I took it to my garage and they couldn't verify the age of the belt so I just paid and had it done for peace of mind. The last thing you want is your cambelt going. Check internal light, heater controls, electric windows (if applicable) and central locking. If you want to be thorough, check the anti-hijack switch too. I didn't and mine was dicky till I got it fixed about 2 weeks ago. Check the spare wheel isn't bald (one I've seen a few times with second hand cars I've considered), that's 3 points straight off. Also there should be a warning triangle, it might not be there as my first Lupo didn't come with one but my second did. Obviously check the seats for rips in the cloth and also check for fag burns, on the floors and roof too. Good luck
  21. I get Green Flag discounted by my insurer. It's the limited cover. I very much doubt they cover anything mechanical, but they provide 24/7 service and will drive you to a garage or home within 10 miles, assuming you are within that limit, if not, you'll be going to the first garage they can find. I used them once when I blew the main fuse on my car. I was stuck in the middle of nowhere in a hotel and obviously I didn't have a spare to hand (i actually do now!), so I phoned up Green Flag. They took about an hour and half to arrive (which is understandable, although they claim the maximum should be an hour). The bloke made a DIY main fuse out of two pieces of thick wire and a wall fuse of the same amps. It worked really well actually and I used it for about 4 weeks while I got round to getting an actual main fuse from VW (about 50p). One thing he said to me, (which may or may not have been a lie) is that Green Flag only pay him time, not parts, so I gave him about 2 quid for the fuse (probably a 10p fuse but who the hell cares when you're standing in the freezing cold on a hotel car park flipping a coin as to whether your car is about to start or spectacularly melt the two wires connecting the fuse). Ultimately, he went beyond the call of duty as far as I'm concerned. Doing what he did is quite dangerous and there is a risk of electrocuting yourself when doing something like that. His fix allowed me to get home and meant my life wasn't in any way impacted (Apart from the boredom sitting in the hotel foyer waiting for him). The equivalent RAC cover will either spray a load of Bradex Easy Start in your airbox (regardless of whether it's suitable for the car in question, or whether the issue requires it, 1, 2, Google for more) or simply tow your car without even attempting to sort it properly (1, Google for more). They rarely try and fix anything. I think it's a no brainer to consider Green Flag or AA though.
  22. Hey, 1. Sounds like there might be a short circuit, so yes, you could call that a duff one, but I'm not very knowledgeable on the OEM stuff. I've always opted for aftermarket. 2. Common issue. If you search around the forums, you'll find plenty of people have had this issue.
  23. Great buy for £250. Absolute steal, even with the problems. The central locking sounds like faulty microswitches. If you're handy, whip the mech off and take it apart. If not, buy 2 new mechs and I'm pretty sure you'll be sorted. Only thing you need to consider, the convenience module CAN go on VW's but it's very rare. Maybe 1% of cases.
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