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Showing most liked content since 11/23/16 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    My Little Cherry, she's an old little car! From the moment I met her I knew we'd go far! With me at her wheel, It's what I had been dreaming of... Shows and events, and more learning than I could think of! No matter the weather, she gets thirsty like me.. She smokes and its awful, she drinks oil like it's free. Never a care for what long driving brings.. Yeah I know, pistons and rings. What would I do if the tread went on the tires? At least if the electrics fail, @Rich can put in new wires.. Tires can be fixed, @danno can buy me some more Oh Crap! There's a leak! Watch my liquids now pour... If anything else breaks let's go to Halfrauds for a new part... Perhaps now it's time to go back to the start? Nah I don't think thats an option, I'm hooked! I can finally have cherry vinyl all thanks to @Loop'd With the monitor, @Silver!, keeping his eye on things And @mk2's trippy picture is giving me wings! I love ClubLupo, sad but it’s true.. And the reason is because of crazy car folk like you! The help and support on this forum is on par Whenever I struggle with my little Cherry car. Before I was here, I couldn’t even fill my tire with air, Listening to the mechanic I’d listen, but not care – “Cherry has a rather odd malfunction, Her cambeltshaft snazzle has lost most of it's suction.” These things in my head, oh my goodness what? Can you just tell me in English if she’s broken or not? “You have airflow chassis and fanbelt slippage. And the plastic end from the dipdiff stick carb needs new tippage.” Oh Lord, I don’t know and I don’t think I care, I’m off to the metro, will she manage to get me there? “The worst of all your problems that I find you got Is that your heating intake vent razzle valve really squeaks a lot.” Ok so I’m sure Cherry is just singing a song, Come on mate I’ve not had her that long! “Well from all the checks that I've done so far, I’m sorry but Cherry is crap and you need a new car.” But not in ClubLupo, there’s no giving up! See now @16Vjason can drive with a cup! Without all the help and advice you have given… Cherry would be in the scrappy and wouldn’t be driven. Thank you! xx
  2. 4 points
    If anyone is interested, there's a feature in May's edition ( out now. ) of Modern Classics about the Lupo GTI under the title Tiny Heroes. Gets a good right up !
  3. 4 points
    Best place I can think of putting them is back in 2004 where they came from. Failing that they should neatly tuck underneath the dash plastics on either footwell and face down to glow on your carpets. But please consider option 1 first.
  4. 3 points
    We have a different understanding to what makes a car more interesting / valuable. Apparently being able to fit a tow bar is the new cool
  5. 3 points
    I saw this in the local adds up for sale for £300. 120k and cambelt done recently. i asked a load of questions then it all went quite.... i got a message today saying that he wants it gone this weekend as he has a new car now and offered it to me for £150. So now I have 2 lol i am a very happy bunny
  6. 3 points
    I should update this more often, it's been nearly 6 months since last time The 15th of May marked the 2nd year of ownership of the car, and I sometimes wonder why I didn't buy one of these earlier... So far and since my last update, the car has had a very small service, new spark plugs and cleaning of the leads alongside a new air filter. I'm waiting to do the oil service, having already bough the filter and the oil. After having to jumpstart the car a couple of times, it turned out the old battery was dead. I tried doing a whole charging cycle on it which didn't work at all, so in the end I had to buy a new battery . As for changes, I bought and installed a Gamma radio as the plan is to fit 8 speakers this summer. And yes, I know these were standard in the UK And now a couple pictures of a little drive I did this morning:
  7. 3 points
    Indicator stalk intermittent: contacts wear out, just replace the stalk Drivers door not activating interior light: will be dry joints in the lock mechanism, dismantle and re-solder CD changer lights: you might just need an illumination loom, pull the CD changer out and have a look if one is fitted http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=113637&page=2 Window problem: could just need a new switch Drivers seat heating: I'd swap the roller switches over and if the problem still persists I'd probably look to replace the heating mat (or at least remove the seat covers and look to see if it
  8. 3 points
    I'm biassed. Go for the SDI and you'll be fine. Cheap running, cheap insurance and very reliable. Not much to go wrong. Check out the buyers guide.
  9. 3 points
    Replaced my rear Discs/pads at weekend with some Brembo dealies. Gonna do the front next and I'm contemplating a G60 upgrade, am I correct in thinking that one of the places to get the correct carriers is from a 1.8 Corrado? Found a set for about £20 each if so. Now the weathers improving a bit aswell, got the clay bar/polish/wax out and gave her a good going over.
  10. 3 points
  11. 2 points
    Haha it still matters if it's trade insurance as to what you are actually declaring. If your calling them up or using an app and registering the car on your policy as whats on the log book but it's got a different engine, that's still illegal, even with trade insurance. I've had my trade policy for a fair few years, I have to sell a min of 8 vehicles a year. All cars MUST be legally declared, there's no exceptions to a traders policy. If you crash, your in the same boat as everyone else if the details are wrong.
  12. 2 points
    Can we have some pics. It would be nice to see it.
  13. 2 points
    You guys are just being dicks were you not loved enough as a child or something that you feel the need to belittle someone you don't know behind your keyboard I'm being serious the reason I messaged you rich was you had a good reputation on this site but I guess a little bit of popularity has gone to your head,I kinda feel sorry for you man it's not your fault you're just insecure and want to be the loudest in the room correct me if I'm wrong???
  14. 2 points
    I wondered how long it would be until the 'dieselgate' saga reared its ugly head! Despite OTHER MANUFACTURERS CHEATING AS WELL, VW seem to be the only ones who are the anti-Christ. Jeez, get over it! How about Vauxhall Zafira's that spontaneously combust? Or Toyota's that spontaneously combust? Or Honda's airbags that go off in your face even though you've not hit anything? Its been blown out of all proportion because VW are a successful company. And for the record, it's not affected sales of new VW's either. Sorry about that. You broke your ONE AND ONLY key, and it's VW's fault? It's your fault but you want to blame VW because the time-frame involved is inconvenient to you. Plan ahead, get a spare key. Or make friends with a good mobile locksmith, they're handy guys to know in situations like this. 'I've worn my clutch out by slipping it all day. Come on VW, that's your fault!' Sounds dumb doesn't it. Dealers DO NOT set recommended parts prices for parts, VW Germany do. I find a lot of parts are overpriced, much like a lot of things in life are. But you do get what you pay for. A lot of the aftermarket stuff is pure rubbish, and that is why you pay less for it in the first place, because it is shite. Dealers DO NOT have any control of how long a part takes to arrive. There are a lot of factors involved with this. Do you think a supplier of ball joints for example, only supplies them to VW? And those suppliers have to be supplied with the raw materials to make the part in the first place. VW keys are not made by VW but a few companies that have made them for VW, much like Chubb do for Ford (which are also shite!) Is a dealer expected to keep key information for every VW in their records? They are stored SECURELY so that not every Tom, Dick or Harry has access to a minefield of information. And you can imagine the fun the media would have if it ever happened that VW key records got out in the open! Get a grip man. The key broke. You needed a new one, and your local dealer has ordered one for you. Oh and you do know it will need coding to the car as well, as it won't start until you do? Another security device, but I guess that's an inconvenience too until someone wants to steal your car, then it will be a God-send.
  15. 2 points
    with the amount of details you have given and the general ignorance of your post you don't deserve an answer.
  16. 2 points
    Looking forward to it, especially the leaderboards. How will the scoring work? I hope it's different to the current "get a friend to like all my posts" !
  17. 2 points
    physically anything can be done. you can put a 1.8t in the front, mount a haldex system out back, bolt Tt swingarms on and shorten every single shaft so that it all fits. it isn't worth doing, there's a lot of work doing it properly, not just a welder on a driveway job. you've already killed it by chopping the floor out. weld in a standard one, fit a tdi engine and towbar then sell it to the penguin.
  18. 2 points
    Nice to see a topic that gets so many involved though. However I'd disagree with @Rich, being able to afford more than one car doesn't mean you need to have more than one. A lot of people can afford multiple of everything in their lives but only choose to have one. Therefore, the TDI is the best compromise, (I promise it's just coincidence I may have one up for sale soon ) Oh, and to keep it on the towing topic... It has a detachable towbar too
  19. 2 points
    Is that because of the upcoming diesel scrappage scheme?
  20. 2 points
    gti isn't a fast car, nippy and fun though.
  21. 2 points
    The cover on the back of the lamp is held on with a metal clip, unclip that and it will pull away, but not completely as the wiring loom goes through the cover. The bulb is an H3, has a negative wire that comes off the back of the bulb that connects to the negative terminal inside the lamp. The bulb is held in with a spring clip and shouldn't be too hard to remove. As the car owner's bible, the mighty Lord of Haynes says, refitting is the opposite of removal.
  22. 2 points
    Spotted this today when browsing through. One of the writer has bought a lupo for £320. Plans are to fix it and get it to worthsee next year.... Link https://www.autocar.co.uk/opinion/new-cars/opinion-can-you-buy-good-car-£300
  23. 2 points
    I haven't been on here ages I still have the car it's going back in for paint soon I've only been driving my Ibiza cupra for a while now but I miss driving the lupo so much more fun than the cupra
  24. 2 points
    Update: I think Happy Green Lupo man must have disappeared from the Earth. I am now happy green lupo lady
  25. 2 points
    you don't even like the colour!
  26. 2 points
    It'd take a machine shop five minutes a wheel. And it'd be accurate too. I'm sure that there's someone local to you with a decent size lathe. They'll simply need to know the exact size of the hole needed. I'd imagine a fiver a wheel would cover it. Just make a few phone calls or speak to your nearest farmer in s wales. They know all the right people!
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    Busy with general tear down/paint and general tidy up ready for taxing in April. The Eunos turns 28 this year and is about to reach proper/bonafide classic status
  29. 2 points
    gotta keep at it. plus the world needs to know of Pete's misery.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Retrofit Heated Electric Wing Mirrors Special Tools: Uninsulated (W) Crimp tool Multimeter Pin removal tool (can be made fairly easily with a bit of fiddling around) Shopping list: 8X Various coloured 0.5mm sq cable approx 4-5 meters to be safe. (I used 1mm sq. cable and found it to be on the thick side for the switch) 2X Various coloured 1mm sq. cable approx 5-6 meters to be safe. (These lengths are just a guideline) 10X Female 2.8mm Terminals (Allowing for spares) 10X Male 2.8mm Terminals (Allowing for spares) 10X Male 1.5mm Terminals (Allowing for spares) 5X Heat shrink Butt Connector (Optional - solder can be used) 1/2X Loom tape (Not essential but finishes it off nicely. The linked tape is not OEM but you can find the OEM stuff on ebay - Tesa loom tape) 2X GTI or sport (OEM electric mirror) door harnesses 2X Manual mirror blanking plates 1X Electric mirror switch 2X Electric mirrors Your old door looms The latter of this list should be easy enough to get your hands on if somebody is breaking a sport or a GTI The mirror back cans can be swapped over easily. Door Looms And Mirrors: First off is the easy bit, swapping over the door looms and mirrors. This is pretty self explanatory - remove the old and fit the new, the manual adjuster plates should pull directly back. They are a pain. I must emphasise that the door looms are a must as they contain conduit that routes the wires safely up the door. Making a New Loom: For this you will need access to the back of the fuse box, the A pillar interconnects and behind the centre console for the switch, you (may) need to remove the passenger side trims up to the rear door cards and both sides of the dash so i advise stripping it all out at once. Firstly start with either the drivers or passenger side mirror wiring. Crimp the corresponding sized terminals onto the wires and push them into the BLUE connector block. To push them into the block you will need to release the PURPLE locking tab by pushing it in, you may need to give them a gentle tug with some pliers to get them to click in. You should now have a bundle of 3 wires inserted into the correct block, loosely route these to where they will go and cut to length, leaving some extra length in case of complications. Repeat this for the other side. Passenger side door: Drivers side door: Pin 1 - Black + Grey Pin 1 - Grey + Purple Pin 7 - Yellow + Black Pin 7 - Purple Pin 6 - Grey Pin 6 - Grey Heater Wiring: The heater wiring uses the thicker 1mm sq. cable. The way i routed this was a direct copy of the OEM layout. You can change the route if you like but i will not be held responsible for any altercations that may occur, USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT. I stuck to OEM spec because i figured they did it like that for a reason. You will need to run a new 5A fuse into the fuse box to number 18. This live feed gets tapped from the heated rear windscreen fused live, the OEM location for this is behind the rear passenger pocket under the door card as shown below. In the above picture you can see where the Black + Red and Black + Green wires for the heater circuit fit into the fuse box. Fuse Box: Pin 18A - Black + Green Pin 18B - Black + Red Rail A is for the 'feed' or 'live' wires, Rail B is the corresponding fused side. Once again, i recommend crimping the correct terminal onto the wire and inserting it into the terminal block first, then routing it as desired and cutting with length to spare. The fuse box PURPLE locking tab must be pulled out, this tab will pull out TWO clicks, you only want to pull it out ONE to allow pins to be inserted. The heater circuit runs through the BLACK connector block in the A pillar interconnect. Passenger side door heater circuit: Drivers side door heater circuit: Pin 1 - Brown Pin 1 - Brown Pin 5 - Black + Red Pin 5 - Black + Red The Black + Red wires are twinned behind the passenger side dashboard trim (this area contains multiple harness connections) so run your wires to this point and either crimp or solder them together, there should be three, drivers door, passenger door and fuse box pin 18B. Run the Black + Green wire up the passenger side and twin it with the heated rear screen wire (or alternatively twin it at the back of the heated rear windscreen switch pin 6 (The thicker black cable) Use a multimeter to confirm) The switch: The final part is wiring the switch. The connector that goes into the back of the switch just so happens to be the same fitment as the connecter in the any of the electric window switches (hence needing your old door looms). The connector housing is slightly different (straight down instead of to an L like the below picture) As you can see below, using the electric window connector, the wires hang down, so you will most likely need to trim a bit out of your switch panel underneath the mirror switch to get it to fit. As you can see above, in the middle slot, there is a blank pin. You can steal the blank pins out of the window connectors so you should be able to make a complete plug connector to either solder or crimp on to. Switch connector: Pin 1 - N/A Pin 2 - Grey - Twin both of the GREY wires you ran from either door Pin 3 - Brown - Earth (OEM earth is behind the passenger side dashboard trim) Pin 4 - Grey + Blue - Illumination (OEM connection is behind the passenger side dashboard trim) Pin 5 - Black - Live feed from fuse 26B Pin 6 - Grey + Black Pin 7 - Purple Pin 8 - N/A Pin 9 - Black +Yellow Pin 10 - Grey + Purple The neatest way to get a 12V feed from fuse box pin 26B is to remove that pin and cut the connector off at the base, bare the wire, twist your switch feed to that wire and crimp a new terminal on. Re-insert the terminal back into the fuse box and tape it up. You can either run a new earth or twin it with another, just make sure to check with a multimeter first. Grey + Blue wires behind the dash are most likely illumination wires so you can find and splice into another, more convenient illumination wire if you please, just make sure to check with a multimeter before cutting things up. Test your mirrors and heating elements to make sure everything works as expected. If everything goes to plan, box your car back up and enjoy your fancy new mirrors. I have made this guide as a few people have asked me now so i hope this helps. I have tried to be as comprehensive and clear as possible but if i have missed anything out or been unclear in sections just drop me a message and ill try to be of assistance.
  32. 2 points
    A few new updates. The Lupo has had a full refresh underneath, every single bush has been replaced with new OEM. Decided it was time to get rid of the AP's for something better, went for BC Racing coilovers and I am so glad I did. Mega impressed with the way these ride and handle! Also decided i fancied some harnesses so got myself a harness bar and a set of OMP harnesses. I think they go really well with the Recaro's. Also fancied a bit more noise so I had a custom decat fitted. A couple of pictures and video below👍🏼
  33. 2 points
    no, it appears that Skezza never made the how to guide about writing how to guides so this one never got finished.
  34. 2 points
  35. 2 points
    They sure are! Gonna ditch the missus, get a lad instead.
  36. 2 points
    2nd attempt posting this... did someone delete my post?! Anyway.... I thought I'd post an update after 6 weeks of usage. All looking good even with a few extra scratches. In fact the laser etching seems to stand out more once it gets a bit scuffed. At least there's no enamel or paint to chip off. I had to grind off the Gti spoiler (sorry Gti fans!), as it kept snagging. I also ended up polishing the edge as I like the feel of polished metal over laser cut metal. What it looks like now: And an edge close up: Ask cooter who makes them
  37. 2 points
    I come here bearing great news 😀😀😀 Swapped the counter weight and linkage catches over today and it has completely fixed the crunchy 2-3rd gear shift. I have driven about 10 miles and completely hammered the gearbox and I just can't get it to crunch at all. To say I'm stoked is an understatement. This gearbox issue has been a pita ever since I brought the car and has really darkened the Tdi experience. I'm in love with it again 😀😀😀 I always had a deep down feeling that this second gearbox couldn't have the same problem as the one I chucked in the skip 9 months ago (which was probably also fine) Buying the silver Tdi, and having something to compare it against confirmed my suspicions. Happy days......now I have two mint Tdi to play with 😀😀😀
  38. 2 points
    You cant remove the OE material as i have tried, you will ruin the headlining and make a mess. I put up this fairly comprehensive guide a while back which might help. I also happen to have this headlining up for sale if you don't want the hassle of DIY-ing it
  39. 2 points
    That's just the belt though, the full kit inc water pump from gates or Febi is about £115 which is what you want, the pictures are often just stock photos and dont mean much in terms of what it looks like, just check the list of contents has what you expect in it before buying.
  40. 2 points
    Bought my first Lupo GTI a couple of months in raven blue, which is personally my favourite colour.
  41. 2 points
    And to finish, a couple of pretty pics of my little fleet. And of course one more pic of my most special project ever, 8 1/2 months and going strong. 😍
  42. 2 points
    So new house, new baby, new car, how about a new garage? As you can see, something was in the way. This was probably the hardest bit, keeping the shed in one piece and moving it, up a steep ledge. 😏 But with a sack barrow, two trolley jacks, some wooden stakes, some square tubing and round tubing it happened, although my back has never been the same.
  43. 2 points
    common pd head gasket issue. just avoid boost and it will be fine till repaired.
  44. 2 points
    I saw this joint profile on Grindr though. Look like an interesting duo. Apparantly the guy on the top takes it with an extra finger. The guy underneath likes to be stroked softly. They'll perform for £10
  45. 2 points
  46. 2 points
    First few pictures of the Lupo in one of my favourite places to take pictures. Loving this thing so far!
  47. 2 points
    Awesome, I decided for now to keep my steelies and I'm just gonna clean them up. Don't want to spend too much on this car.
  48. 2 points
    @Rich this is what he's like..... definitely needs a lesson in testosterone:-) isn't that right @danno ?? 😂
  49. 2 points
    Well he's out of luck with Dannos little chipolata 😂
  50. 2 points
    Having done a few cambelt changes on the SDI, I thought I'd post a how to. I've had to repair other people's mistakes as it is not obvious like on other Vdubs. There are a few sequences you MUST follow, as some parts overlap or get in the way. If you do it in the wrong sequence you can break something. Take your time. The work is fairly straight forward, but some bits are fiddly, such as the hex bolts on the crank and water pump pulleys. Don't use allen keys- use a proper hex driver attachment to fit your socket set ratchet spanner. Tools needed: trolley jack 1/2" metric socket set (to 19mm) metric spanner set (to 19mm) stubby screwdriver 8mm flat blade 1/2" drive hex key driver set (to 10mm) a medium length 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver 3mm allen keys or nails or steel pins molegrips for the pipe clamps compact mirror paint spray grease light oil can rag to clean hands and messy bits Start here: Loosen RHS front wheel bolts. Jack up front of car, both sides. Put on axle stands or blocks, wood etc. Both front wheels off the ground. Remove plastic sump tray (two 10mm bolts and three star clips)- rotate star clips counter clockwise until they come off their threads if they will be reused. Remove RHS front wheel. Open bonnet. Remove engine dressing cover (take care with the clips). If the two studs come away, they will need to be detached and thread locked back onto their pedestals later. Dismantling: Unclip air temp sensor Remove air duct Remove ribbed belt -14mm spanner- loosen tensioner bar around back of diesel pump Remove top cam belt cover (don't forget small plastic screw and pipe clip) Put trolley jack under rhs of engine sump Remove engine mount top bracket 3 + 1 bolts -jack up engine to take the strain Loosen engine mount side support 4 bolts- leave in place for the minute Remove engine mount 3 bolts Manoeuvre engine mount side support up and out (leaving bolts loose in it)- jack up engine or lower as needed Remove water pump pulley - no option - this must be done (3 bolts) Remove the crankshaft ribbed belt pulley (4 bolts) Remove the lower cam belt cover (3 bolts- yes 3) Turn engine clockwise using socket on crank until all the TDC marks line up Put a paint mark on all of the cambelt pulleys and behind them in easy to see positions Loosen cam belt tensioner nut to allow cam belt to go slack Remove the mini cambelt idler bearing pulley next to the diesel pump Ease the cambelt off the pulleys Fully remove the cam belt tensioner (jack up the engine a bit) This is the (easy) point to remove the water pump if you are going to replace it Check condition of pulleys and crank seal, and clean up any gunge- if any. This is the easy point to check/change ribbed belt tensioner pulley bearing Reassembly: (raise or lower engine as needed throughout the procedure) Clean then lightly oil every nut and bolt before reassembly Lube (spray grease) intermediate slider and spring inside tensioner (they wear out quicker otherwise) Loosely hang new cam belt on tensioner pulley and slide it back onto the stud (no nut just yet) Locate tensioner anti rotate peg into slot (important) Ease the cam belt onto the pulleys, starting at the crank first, just hanging on the pulley edges Once the cam belt is located in the right timing teeth slide it fully onto each pulley Check the paint marks are still right and the pulleys haven't moved Tighten the tensioner nut up to finger tight (don't forget the washer) Recheck the anti rotate peg is correctly located Refit the (new) small idler bearing pulley (to the right torque- not too tight!) Using some makeshift tools tension the cam belt just enough to take out any slack, then tighten the tensioner nut just enough to stop it loosening. Turn the crank by hand a few times to get the new belt to settle in the pulley teeth and allow it to find its running line. Using a small mirror, check the alignment of the tensioner marks. Adjust tensioner so that the marks line up Turn the crank again a few times Check and adjust the tensioner again. keep doing it until the tensioner mark stays lined up. Then the tension is perfect. Note the tension alignment moves with temperature if checking a hot engine (the belt gets tighter). Tighten tensioner nut to the right torque (not too tight!) Refit (in this order): Engine mount side support (the bolts have to be in place before trying to fit it) Lower cam belt cover Water pump pulley Crankshaft ribbed belt pulley Remaining top engine mount parts in reverse order as removed -don't overtighten! Top cam belt cover Ribbed belt Air duct Temp sensor (don't forget to plug it in or you'll get a check engine light!) Final check- make sure you can turn the engine over at the crank before starting Refit the other bits in reverse order as removed The timing alignment can be double checked with all wheels on the ground (upper cam belt cover off)- Put the car in 5th gear, roll forwards inch by inch till the timing marks all line up: Flywheel check hole (--o mark), cam pulley (dot) and injection pump (holes line up) pics for reference follow: Here's a link for the very similar polo SDI engine, with some useful diagrams how to change the cam belt. http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-belt-on-vw-polo-6n-1-7-sdi/ Tighten bolts and nuts to the following settings. Notice that they are not that tight, as many threads are cut into aluminium which strips easily. Add a drop of oil to each thread before assembly. Not too tight... Upper engine mount 3+1 bolts: 30lbft Engine mount side plate 4 bolts: 30lbft Cam belt tensioner nut: 15lbft Water pump pulley 3 hex bolts: 20lbft Crank pulley 4 hex bolts: 25lbft Lower cam belt cover 3 bolts: 10lbft Plastic bolt upper cam belt cover: a bit tighter than finger tight. Idler pulley bolt: 20 lbft. I recommend wearing gloves, as knuckles will get damaged during work. There is hardly any space between the body and the engine, so you'll need to raise or lower the engine all the time to get things to fit. Start to finish takes a relaxed 3h. You can do it in about 45 minutes with practice!