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  1. 32 points
    Some of you may disagree with me on this, but as I was going through the Archive/How To, I realized that we seem to lack basic instructions for fairly fundamental tasks while being overloaded with 'vanity' tutorials so to speak. I'm not saying these are bad, I intend on writing one or two myself when I get chance (we need a proper one for RCL which I will write over the next few days), but it seems strange that we don't have a single tutorial for replacing a headlight bulb on a non-GTI Lupo. This isn't the easiest task in the world for a novice, yet there's not a single description on how to do it. Another one that's missing is how to replace a Brake Light Switch. Why? It's a really simple task, but not if you don't know where to look! I'm not suggesting that the current information isn't useful. I'm just saying perhaps we need to look at compiling more tutorials, on more basic subjects as well as more complicated. I'm expecting a load of abuse here or 30 "why don't you write them then" comments, but like I said, just an observation.
  2. 29 points
    Time of year when I start looking for replacement wheels. Running out of BMW options I think (though z4m or a v8 might be fun) tempted by something older and more interesting but it needs to be reliable and used as a daily so approved used warrenty is usually what I go for. Last few cars for those who don't keep up: 3lr Z4 E85 m sport with the sound generator modification and a few other custom bits and enjoyed the sound and handling though the ride was pretty shocking and it needed plenty of things replaced under warranty (wheels, steering rack, rear springs etc.) Mover to an E46 M3 which I loved, but got married and the running costs were getting too high to justify. Best engine and fantastic m-diff, loved the sound, space and handling and always felt special. Down side being the boot floor cracks, bushes and springs lasting 30k miles and service costs in four figures. Changed for a 130i and it has been the best of both, being similar to my old z4 in running costs, not had any reliability issues or warranty work and it is almost as quick as the M3 up to legal road speeds. Doesn't feel as special but easy to drive and doesn't scare the wife like the M3 did. Had E39 M5, E46 325ci and E90 330i in the past too so had enough of 3 series, but not finding much that I like in the current BMW line up. Prefer N/A over turbo, straight 6 or V8 rather than a 4 pot and has to be manual not flappy paddles or auto. Budget is about £18k for trade in but can be a bit flexible. Only do 8k miles a year mixture of business and pleasure in my car and I have a 120d for longer motorway runs. Options are: 1. Keep the 130i but get the bmw performance exhaust and induction kit plus a remap and differential to give 280 bhp and the excitement and sound I miss from the M3. 2. Look for a manual e89 3lr N/A with a manual gearbox. (not that many around and the e89 gets a bit of a slating in most of the reviews I have read though none seem to have tested that specific version). Looks like the dealer 30 miles away has one in approved used so I might go for a test drive. Electric handbrake might rule it out, be nice to be back in a roadster though. 3. Wait for a manual 645/650i or 545/550i to turn up on the AUK site or just go for a z4m. 4. Other?
  3. 28 points
    I've seen this idea on a few forums now. How about we start a photo of the day thread? There seem to be a fair few of us on here with at least some interest in photography so just an opportunity to post some good photos up for people to appreciate or comment on RULES: 1. one pic per member per day 2. must be the work of the poster 3. try to keep the images to a reasonable size to assist viewing. A link to the full res version may be posted if required. 4. please respect others images and ask permission before using elsewhere or downloading to your computer (Added by Silver! 14 Oct 08 as the original rules seem to have disappeared)
  4. 25 points
    Just picked up my new car which had previously had Cambridge edition rear lights, these were switched back to standard Arosa Mk2 lights for the sale, all the fuses were blown so i replaced them and they blew all over again. Different wiring. While rectifying the problem i found a load of spliced wires and it occurred to me that not many people know how to correctly swap connections in terminals so i decided to write up this little how to. Here goes: This is the spliced loom how i got it (bar pin 6 which i fixed before thinking about making a how to). If this mod was done the 'correct' way, it would be a lot quicker to revert and a lot neater. Step 1: Insert a small screwdriver or something similar to pry each end of the retainer. This block is for the rear lights, the retainer on the connector block for the radio will be a slider that pulls out the center of the block. NOTE: MOST BLOCKS CONTAIN RETAINERS. INSPECT THE BLOCK THOROUGHLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY EXTRACTION. This will be what it looks like open: Step 2: Insert something into the connector block from the front on either side of the pin to compress the tabs, you should feel/hear a small click or pop, this indicates the pin should be free. For this i used a staple from an electric stapler/nail gun. Not the greatest picture but you can just see on pin 5 (red and black) the staple pushing down on the tabs. Step 3: Extract the pins and swap around. Its that easy. A picture of the loom tidied up - all wires heat shrank up, then bound with insulating tape for water proofing and bound again with loom tape for strength.
  5. 23 points
  6. 22 points
    I'm starting a tread on my fox from standard and will slowly will be making modifications to it hope you like it
  7. 18 points
    Online Car Insurance Quote with Prestige Renewed! Modified & Standard Cars! We trialled this a few months ago. At the time, feedback from Tom ‘Gudzy’ of 350Z-uk was - ‘around 10% cheaper than my current policy....(and you were slightly more expensive than them when I took out my policy a few months ago).’ That’s great to hear AND we’ve also reduced the prices even more since the trialling (my quote went down by £200!) so we have now launched our online quote designed uniquely for the registered users of car clubs. POSTSCRIPT! After officially launching this week, the first person to do an online quote and report back said ‘that actually worked out quite cheaply for me........will be bearing that in mind come renewal in a month’! So please bookmark the following url and click on this unique link for the registered users of this car forum to get a quote at renewal - GET AN ONLINE QUOTE – http://prestigekeepmoving.taaglquotes.com/car/getquote?source=CLUBLU (If you have more than 5 modifications or over 10% bhp increase, please ring us on 0800 3308057 or 0333 4001580)
  8. 12 points
    Not for the tdi. The 9n covers some things but the engine bay is different and tbh haynes isn't all that IMO these days. I'm sure it used to be better? I think it would make for a better site.
  9. 10 points
    hi, I am thinking of buying this inlet manifold for my lupo turbo project but not sure if it will fit looks like it will from the photos but wanted to know if any one had fitted this inlet manifold to a lupo 1.4 s ahw engine? it is a polo 6n2 gti 1.6 16v inlet manifold hear are some photos, Inlet manifold by anthony.gaulter, on Flickr Inlet manifold by anthony.gaulter, on Flickr any info please
  10. 10 points
    Apparently. https://www.bespokeoffers.co.uk/consumer/offers/save-5p-per-litre-on-v-power-nitro-fuel-at-shell--c73b2
  11. 10 points
    my very clever boyf made this today instead of scrappin his old engine he recently had his dog put down that the family had for 13 years so made this for her as a memorial to go in there garden what do ya think lol
  12. 9 points
    -EDIT- I have just noticed Flickr has decided to fail with my pictures, so here is my Flickr photostream, all pictures are on there. -EDIT- So im planning on starting this install thread and maintaining it.. but im a bit of a lazy sod so i apologise if if it goes to pot I've ripped out my old install which was done on a bit of a budget, it consisted of 2 10" Fli subs taken out of a FliTrap 1600W and the loaded 500 amp to go with it as well as 2 Audiobahn 12" ran off an Inphase 4ch amp, i cant really remember all of the details because i put it in quite a while ago. Here it is: Here is the new stuff thats going in.. eventually: Consists of (pictured): Sundown SAZ-1500D amp Focal PS-165 Component speakers Stinger 14AWG Speaker wire 5L Fiberglass kit 5L Contact adhesive Paint + lacquer kit Non-Pictured: KnuKonceptz Kord Kable 12 Gauge Speaker Wire Alpine MRX-F35 Phonocar 4/927 Rain Stop KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge amp installation kit 2x Sundown SA-12 Already fitted: Alpine CDE-135BT Head unit XS Power D1200 AGM Battery 'The Big 3' Upgrade with black KnuKonceptz 0AWG Valeo 108a Passat alternator - http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/94682-180a-alternator-fitted/ KnuKonceptz 0AWG cable KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable 2 Channel 5M Twisted Pair RCA Cable I've probably missed some stuff out but ill update when i remember.
  13. 9 points
    decided to make this thread so everyone can stop asking how to do the conversions. also find out why everyone says polo gti looms are easier. done this conversion three times now so iv got the idea how you do it you will need polo gti engine polo gti looms inside and out polo gti or lupo gti ecu and if you have cable throttle get the gti, sport, pedal box electrical CENTRAL LOCKING easiest way to do central locking is to use your old loom( if it has central locking) strip the loom down starting from the drivers side door connecters seperator the central locking wires from the other wires. do the left side door connector firstly to the fusebox and also to the drivers side wires where they attach. secondly down to the boot of the car where they lead to the boot lock and interior lighting. do the same to the polo gti looms while also taking out the air pump pipes. the boot wires need to be chopped or either the pins need taking out the connector blocks once done put the old looms to the gti ( best to go fusebox first) the polo gti looms may have extra peices going off near to the rear speakers these where the interior light sensor connects and are no longer needed once all fitted, soldered,crimped etc test the central locking using your original central locking control unit. if remote test your fob should still work without reproggramming wrap up the loom securly as you wont need to take that bit apart again. this loom also does your electric windows if you have them. LIGHTING front light pins will need swopping and so do the rears the 3rd brake light pin needs to be swapped over else you will find the 3rd brake light will not work ( obvs) but also the fuse will keep popping the reverse light pin will need to be chopped and made into a double wire to use for both lights as the polo only uses one reverse light. EARTHING/REAR RE-WIRING the looms shape is diffrent to the lupo so your will need to unwrapp the whole of the rear loom to relocate the earths for the rear lighting ,fuel pump etc the roof lining needs to be removed to swop the aerial cable to the other side or can be extended with more aerial cable. ENGINE/GEARBOX extra pieces will be need to do small but important bits of the conversion the speedo sensor will need changing or chopping. fitting the engine is just the same as putting the normal one in unless it is a 1.0 ltr then you need new engine mounts and a 1.4s,sport,gti gearbox the gearbox bolts will need to be change for either gti bolts or you can chopp them to fitt advice you to do the conversion on a abs type lupo as the abs one is more just plugg in and off you go. the non abs will need you to rip the bulb out of the clocks and hide the wiring your chopp it. throttle bodie has more air pipe hole in that will need either unscrewing and blocking or tubed to one another. if you do not have air con take the pump off and the gti steering pump with it and replace with the 1.4 pump the belt you need is 11.4 s belt. as for the cooling fan your need the relay off the gti that goes in the engine bay they are also on lupo gti's connect this all up and get a garage to test it with daignostic tool everything else is the same as the 1.4 so if you know how to take it now you know how to put it back in! HEATING the gti heaters use electric motors and a electronic computer to adjust the heating and location of the blowing air you can fit these in or you can simple chop the live which is the black and red large wire and solder it, female connect it to the orginal heater connector with the earth done the same aswell. everything else is a plug and play game done this so people that want to do the conversion have an idea what there getting into!
  14. 9 points
  15. 8 points
    Anyone on here play guitar? post a pic of yours ...
  16. 8 points
    Renewal is up in July, and I've tried Adrian Flux, prestige, Sky, Quoteline direct, and the cheapest is 1370 with mods declared fully comp, the others were tpft. I've tried directline, coop, and various others (forgot which ones now) but these won't insure me with the mods. Are there any others companies I have missed that would be worth a try? And I'm under 21 if that helps
  17. 8 points
    The car has been driving fine upto the time for me to come home after work Friday as you do.... Started up like normal but it felt like the turbo wasn't working at all it was that gutless so I pulled over turned it off then on and that sorted that boooost! You really could feel the difference, any ideas?
  18. 8 points
    I changed my heater plugs as the car was sluggish on first start,but even after changing them its still sluggish,what to try next?fuel filter,oil filter,or air filter or all .
  19. 7 points
    Right, so after trimming 2 headlining's i thought i should probably put up a how to for anybody attempting the same thing. What you will need: Spray glue - High temp to withstand the summer heat pounding the hell out of your roof Material - I used OEM spec foam backed textured nylon (Audi) Knife - Preferably a scalpel Scissors - A strong pair Space - Space is essential as the headlining is a large piece of car, i recommend doing it on a table Advised to have: Hot glue gun - Handy tool for any trimming attempt, Re-sticking clips/brackets and trim clip bases Hot glue - Black high viscosity for a strong hold Spray glue - An extra can is always handy 1. Remove old headlining Some people fing this difficult and end up snapping the clips that hold the rear in. The important thing to remember is that the headlining comes out at the FRONT first. To do this you MUST remove the grab handles, interior light and sunvisors, C pillar trims are optional but you might find it easier to do so. The sunvisors are a serious pain to remove but if you push the base towards the rear of the car whilst pulling down it should disengage the front part of the clip, this is not always the case though. You need to pull it out in an arc motion because of the shape of the clip. Brute force WILL damage the clip so just be patient and it will come out in time - i spent over 10 minutes on the passenger side while the drivers side was less than 1. Once all hardware is removed you should be able to lower the front a bit, wiggle it backwards a little to disengage the clips then push the headlining towards the windscreen over the top of the interior mirror. Its just a case of removing it from the car now - i found it easier to remove it from the boot with the rear headrests out. 2. Sise up the material Quite simple really, roll out your chosen material and place the headlining on top of it to size up how much you will need. When you have the correct size, cut it so you have slack on either side for wrapping. 3. Prep For this i used a table, much easier than doing it on the floor plus you can spin the headlining around on it as it is bowed so you have access to all areas. Lay out your headlining on the table and wipe with a damp cloth to take off any lint and crap that is lurking on your headliner. Drape your material over the headliner and move it into position so that the material covers the whole of the headliner, smooth it into the major contours to check it still covers everything. Fold the material in half, length ways, so that you have easy access to the back of the material, which you will be glueing, and the headliner, which you will also be glueing. 4. Glue Cover both the material and the headliner with your spray glue, cover a minimum of 80% of each surface to ensure proper adhesion when pressed together. Once the glue has been sprayed and both surfaces have been covered. WAIT. This is an essential step of the glueing process, you must allow 1-5 minutes depending on the glue for the solvents to evaporate. This is the 'tack time' and will ensure the glue is at its strongest point when the mating of the materials occur. -ALWAYS read the instructions on the can as they vary from make to make- When the glue has tacked, pull the folded half of the material to the very back/front of the headliner depending which end you started with. Work from the center out ensuring there are no creases. When you get to the grab handle recesses, leave a little slack either side and push the material to the deepest point. Only leave a little slack or it will crease, too little slack and you will find it difficult to get the deepest recess to stick as it wants to pull its self out. Repeat this with the other side, the sun visor area is the most difficult as you need to stick it in a less conventional way - usually the rule is work from the center out so you would be smoothing the interior mirror section down and around the base of the visor recesses first. This leaves too little slack. Honestly i cannot tell you how to do this as it is down to the skill/judgement of the trimmer although you should get the feel for it and work it out for yourself. 5. Cutting and wrapping NEVER cut flush. Always wrap the material to the back side of whatever you are trimming, THEN cut. Flip the headlining upside down and run the can of glue around the edge, overlapping both the material and the headlining so they both get a coating of glue. -TACK TIME- Fold the long flat spots around and push them in leaving the corners till last, trim the excess as you go ONLY when it has proper adhesion. When you get to the corners, you may need to 'finger' the material. Dirty as this sounds, it is the process of cutting little fingers/slits in material (usually these slits go deep, almost flush with the piece getting trimmed) so that it can be pulled and stretched around tight corners, the fingers allow you to cut down to a flush level yet retain the strength of wrapping so that no peel occurs. Once all wrapping is complete you can now cut out the visor clip holes, the interior light hole and slit where the grab handle clips slot. This is where a fresh scalpel comes into its own, it slits through the grab handle slots like a hot knife through butter, you'll probably find it difficult without a scalpel because i started to struggle when my scalpel started to go slightly blunt. For the interior light hole, cut an X shape from corner to corner, trim off the points then fold the flaps back on themselves and stick down. -CONGRATULATIONS- you've trimmed your headliner Now all thats left is to fit your new headliner. To do this, feed the headliner through the boot so that the front is between the mirror and the windscreen, lift the rear of the liner and feed the clips into the slots into the roof. Push the headliner back to the rear and up. Squeeze the edges up into the roof, be careful to avoid the C pillar trim clips when your doing this. The headliner should hold its own now. Feed the interior light wire through the hole and clip the light in. Then fit all the rest of the roof peripherals and your done.
  20. 7 points
    Just wondering if anyone has fitted any kind of sub/amp combo in their boot, and where they connected the earth (brown) wire to the chassis?
  21. 7 points
    Will a similar aged skoda rear axle fit my 1.0 ? Seen a picture of some they look the same ! But obviously one with discs There's a sport in my scrap yard but the axle is twisted up could I transfer the mounting hardware ? Or would the mk4 golf have the same mounts ? Any help would be appreciated as the lupo brakes are crap SKODA FABIA N/S REAR BRAKE CAILPER 1999 - 2007 GENUINE PART (AXLE, HUB NOT INC)http://bit.ly/13qPseO #ebayipadSkoda axel
  22. 7 points
    My mates have managed to tear my passenger side stock door speaker and I can't handle the buzzing basslines any more. I thought I'd take the opportunity to put some better speakers in, without upgrading my head unit from the one that's currently installed nor installing an amp. The Sony head unit has an RMS of 17W x 4 channels. Not fully understanding the whole RMS front is stopping me going ahead and buying a set. In terms of some Focal RMS's, for example, we have: 165A1: 60W RMS IS165: 70W RMS PS165: 80W RMS What would installing any of these result in, with my head unit's RMS being 17W? Would it work at all? Would I have to crank up the volume to hear anything? How does such a difference between head unit RMS and speaker RMS affect sound and output? Any help and useful explanations would be highly appreciated. Thanks James
  23. 7 points
    Out of no where my car is very hard to change gear almost to point will not get any gear but will change easy if car is off was all fine then 400yards up road dose this anyone got any ideas
  24. 7 points
    Quick numpty question... are the drivers side airbags from the standard steering wheel and the GTi leather steering wheel the same? I've tracked down a leather wheel at a good price, without an airbag...
  25. 7 points
    On an 06 fox does anyone know if the black door trim is glued on or pinned on? I want to remove it altogether but if its pinned on and will have holes I will just paint them. Cheers
  26. 7 points
    Just done a mini convoy with you this morning! looked cool - sat nice on the road. Are you local? ...First time I've seen you!
  27. 7 points
    I've been meaning to chuck this together for a while. Currently, the information regarding fitting it is a bit all over the place and broken, so using photos that I took and information from the forum I've put together this fairly comprehensive walkthrough of how to fit Remote Central Locking. Before starting, you already need central locking as standard. So pov specs are out of luck. Fitting remote central locking is very easy, even for a novice, but you need to be willing to remove trim and mess with wiring. It's not plug and play, but it's not far off. For an expert it would take less than an hour. For a VW expert, it would probably take 20 minutes! For a total novice it will likely take about 2-4 hours, so leave yourself a bit of time to do it. These steps are fairly inter-changeable so just use them as a guide rather than a strict tutorial. e.g. if you want to save the trouble, you can happily snip the cables from the RCL wiring loom BEFORE fitting it. I just wrote the guide from memory in order of the way I did it. Kits You need a kit to begin with. If you want a Flip Key, I suggest going for the RightClick kit as it comes with them as standard, however there is a fairly widespread opinion that the pin wears out quickly - http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=50&products_id=671 They are also pretty expensive considering you're paying a premium for a flashy key. If you want value, I suggest one of these kits from eBay (the one I went for) - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Car-Remote-Control-Central-Door-Lock-Locking-Keyless-Entry-System-UK-/290804035020?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item43b5456dcc RightClick sell the exact same kit for £26.95. All you get extra is an activity LED + a pretty instruction manual. You may as well save your money. If you want classy you could go for a Hawk Car Alarm's kit which has carbon fibre remotes and most of which support optional extras such as proximity alarms etc and such. I won't be covering that kit, so I won't place the link however if you do want to go for this kit, you might want to use this as a loose guide for fitting it. Preparation Depending on the kit you chose, the box should contain one receiver box, two remotes, one wiring loom, a sticky back pad, (Optional) an LED indicator (Optional) and a instruction manual. Receiver Box and Wiring Loom looks something like this: I suggest purchasing some earth ring terminals if possible (an assorted bag would be ideal as I have forgotten the size of the screw thread you will be using to earth), if not, a decent fork connector is enough which is what I used. If you do decide to use earth terminals, you may want a few of them as you can do each wire individually rather than grouping. If you use a fork, you probably will only want one as they are a nightmare to get hooked so like me will group. A roll of electrical tape will be useful for keeping wires bundled together, a crimp tool if you need to extend the wire... and of course you may need some extra wire to go along with that. I found that two wires requiring earth were far too short, so I extended them using spade connectors + heat shrink for neatness. You can do this however you want. Guide 1. The first thing you will want to do is remove the relevant trim. The easiest piece to get you going is the trim above the pedals, which is held in by two Torx screws. This might be a good opportunity to scout yourself out a good position for the receiver box, just because you'll have lots of wires in the footwell later on. While the general recommendation is as high as possible, I've not had any reception issues so far with it down above the pedals. When you find a nice spot, make sure your pedals can be pressed without the box interfering. Mine is located slightly behind the white grid on a flat surface, out of the way of the pedals. I hope to add a photo of this a.s.a.p. Don't secure it just yet, remember the spot though. 2. Now you need to remove the bonnet release handle and trim. There really is no photo that can explain the removal of the bonnet release handle, it's a bugger, but the way I found best was to pull the handle (opening the bonnet in the process) and then using a flat head screwdriver as a lever inside the gap holding in the piece towards the rear of the handle. If you look at the photo below, the piece to the right is held in to the bonnet release. You can flick this off, the bonnet release will come off. Unscrew the screw behind and remove the trim. It is a bit awkward, but it will come with a bit of effort. 3. You should now see the wiring harnesses, one blue, one brown and one black. The brown wiring harness is for the central locking mechanism on the door. The blue harness is the Control Module on the door. I suggest removing both of them from the bases. This is quite hard. I'm yet to find the correct way of doing this, however lifting the side lock of the plug while using a flat head screwdriver seemed to work fairly effectively. You might need to wriggle them a bit. Take a pair of scissors and cut away a few inches of the cloth surrounding the wires coming off the looms. You don't need to cut loads off, just enough that you can patch in using your respective method. I cut roughly 1-2 inches (see below). Separate the wires so you can identify the ones you need to splice. Ignore the red electrical tape on the photo below, I added this months ago after I tried (and failed) to install this kit using scotchlocks... oh, and don't use scotchlocks I removed the red electrical tape before splicing 4. Grab your wiring loom, make sure none of the wires are tangled. Now your kit may differ, but assuming you went for an RClick, or a Universal Kit from eBay like the one I did, the colour codes for the wires should be identical so you can follow those below. If not, make sure you check your instruction manual or wiring diagram. RCL Wiring Loom Red Wire (+12v) to Thick Blue/Yellow Wire Brown PlugRCL Wiring Loom White Wire (Lock) to Grey/Yellow Wire Brown PlugRCL Wiring Loom White/Black Wire (Unlock) to Blue/Violet Brown Plug(Optional) RCL Wiring Loom Green (Window Close) to Grey/Yellow Blue PlugSplice these connections using your respective method. Soldering, military splice or bullet/spade connections are ideal. If you use spade connections use heatshrink!!!! Try and ensure the inline spliced wires are facing upwards so not to introduce a kink, which can reduce the lifetime of the connection. 5. Once that is complete leave the loom in the footwell. Secure the receiver box wherever you decided earlier (I bet you didn't). I suggest doing this now as you may need to extend two wires on the loom in the next step. If you would prefer to place the box later, you can go straight to step 6/7. Mine is placed just behind the white grid on a small flat section. Make sure it does not interfere with the pedals. Secure it using the sticky tape, or alternatively blu-tac. I used blu-tac as it's reusable and I may purchase a programmable key (NOT FLIP) in the future and remote learning requires access to the box. The photo below demonstrates where approximately where mine is located, although you can't see it as the photo was taken before I fitted it properly. I'll take one of the box properly fitted a.s.a.p. [iNSERT IMAGE HERE WHEN YOU FIND IT!] 6. Now you will need to connect the earths. The black wire needs to be earthed along with the yellow and yellow/black wire. The problem is that while the black earth wire from the wiring loom is long enough, the yellow and yellow/black wires are not... at least not in my case. You will need to extend these. To achieve this, I took a male spade connector, doubled the two wires into a single junction, which connected to a female spade connector crimped onto one thick piece of wire of decent length. To finish the job, I wrapped the junction in some heat shrink which will prevent it from coming loose in the future. Take the extended wire(s) along with the black earth wire from the loom and ground them using the screw on the silver bracket below shown in the photo below. For this, you can either use an earth ring terminal or a fork connector. I used a heavy duty fork connector as my earth ring terminals were too small for the thread, I used a single fork which is naughty I know, but works fine. I also recommend bundling the earthed wires using some electrical tape. It just makes them a bit easier to manage. Plug in the wiring loom to the receiver box 6. At this point, it would be a good idea to re-plug the brown and blue connectors back in and check whether it actually works. You don't want to be left red faced when it doesn't. Assuming it works and you don't intend to wire in the indicators, now you just need to route the wiring. Unplug the wiring loom from the receiver box. It is far easier to route this way. I suggest snipping all the wires that aren't being used as they can get a bit out of control as you can see in the photo above (right at the start of the guide). I snipped all of the coiled wires except the green one as that is the window rollup. If you snip them roughly 3 inches from the plug, you can easily re-attach them later using a bullet or spade connector, something I will do if I wire in the indicators. If you want to wire the indicators now, do not snip the brown wires on the loom. Go to the bottom under the section Indicators for explanation of how. 7. To route the wiring loom, I suggest bundling the remaining wires together using electrical tape and then taping the bunch down next to the panel. To be fair, you will be on your own a bit here because I imagine each person will locate the box slightly differently. Just do it logically. Don't be silly, make sure it is nowhere near the pedals, and don't drape it across the piece of trim you removed earlier. If you do, you (or your mechanic) will be irritated next time you remove it... e.g. replacing a brake light switch if it fails. Be generous with the electrical tape, so the wires are nicely bundled and secured. It might look messy but how often are you going to access that wiring behind the bonnet handle? I taped the wire bundle to the nearside panel so they don't move then ensured the routing was consistent up to where the box was located. This wasn't hard but I probably spent about 10-20 minutes to make sure it was perfect. Plug the loom back into the box and test it one last time. Do a quick spot check to make sure your earth is strong, your wiring is safe and there is no chance of it catching the pedals. Ensure the brown and blue plugs are safely seated. They are designed to vibrate, but will shuffle out if they are not securely locked into the socket. I will get a photo here a.s.a.p. showing how it looks before I put the trim back on. For now, use your imagination 8. Re-attach the the relevant trim. The trim behind the bonnet release handle is kind of awkward, but you will just need to feed the clips using a bit of twisting and what not. You'll get it, just be patient. The bonnet release handle is really easy, as you simply place it in the correct position then feed the locking clip back into the open hole. Take the panel above the pedals and push it back where it came from. It should clip in, although the clips aren't really suitable for anything other than temporary grips while you re-screw it. 9. (Optional) Pop down your local pub and have a beer. Don't drive if you're having more than one Indicators There are two methods of wiring in the indicators so they flash. On the RCL wiring loom, the indicator flashers are the brown wires. As I've done neither thus far, I cannot add any photos here. The most common method is to simply remove the steering column and splice into the White/Black and Green/Black wires which are both indicators respectively. If I do decide to do this, I will upload photos later. Alternatively, Pete91's method is to wire them into the hazard warning switch. Video Video of my value kit installed. Youtube Video -> Original Video Any questions, just PM me. Good Luck!
  28. 7 points
  29. 7 points
    http://shutupwomangetonmyhorse.com/horse.swf
  30. 7 points
    >Tshirt2k's ICE< Clarion headunit DXZ848RMC Infinity 65.5 Cs components in MDF mountings 90 WRMS Crystal Comp 10 in Custom made 0.9 cuft sealed Fibreglass enclosure Rockford fosgate P8004 amp 2 x 100 WRMS & 1 X 400 WRMS Info on Rockford fosgate amp can be found Here
  31. 6 points
    Hi Folks, I thought I was lucky when I found a tdi Lupo with the full length sunroof last winter, but maybe I'm about to change my mind... With the roof open, it started to rain (for wot seems like the 50th time) today and I went to close the roof. 2 inches from fully closed an ominous clicking started up from the off side front of the roof, and it wouldn't close properly. I took my finger off the close button PDQ, and when I got home, I had to spend an hour clearing out the the garage so I could put the car in it for the first time in ages! Anyone recognise the clicking problem and know how to fix it? PS my last car - a Smart cabrio - had a couple of metal cranks you could use to close the roof when the wires gave up. Anything like that for the Open AIr system?
  32. 6 points
    I always look up to guys (inc girls) on here who does their own jobs, i always wish i could do it but never have the confidence to try.. Today i did I bought a set of what i am told to be mk2 scirocco wheels, "original G60's" some say, or similar to new G60's but with circles instead of D shape holes. 2 were still in silver a little rusty, and 2 painted black. I sanded them down by hand not really to get the paint off but just to scrub them hoping for more hold for the primer to stick to and to get rid of any rust. I then sprayed them with primer, got around 3 coats on each rim with a 500ml can I managed to get 2 coats of my chosen colour but that was all for today but when i finish them off tomorrow ill upload those pics and the finished look.. I must say i am pretty proud of how they turned out they look like they are coming along nicely, and to anyone who thinks it may be too difficult if i can do it anyone can.
  33. 6 points
    Updated: 29th April 2014 So, I figured it was best to make this into one single thread rather than having a few explaining how to fix the same issue.The 'official' way of fixing this is to buy new checkstraps. They are £40 a pair, but why spend more than you really need to. If you're willing to get your hands a bit dirty, here are three ways you can fix it quickly. This thread was inspired by the original checkstrap fix thread found here:http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/78249-cheap-fix-for-noisy-door-check-straps/ Like I always say, this is just a guide. You might need to use a bit of intuition if something isn't quite working as you expected. Hopefully this thread is enough to see you through. Ghetto Fix (Temporary)What you need:Bag of cheap assorted heatshrink. (found on ebay for about £3)Heatgun/Hair dryer/Hob10mm socket wrench(Optional) Cup of water(Optional) Spray grease 1. Remove the pin using the 10mm socket wrench. 2. Cut a piece of heatshrink to the size of the unthreaded part of the pin and place it so it covers it. 3. Heat the pin so that the heatshrink wraps itself tightly around the unthreaded section. 4. I suggest adding a couple more layers although not an exact science and too many will stop you from putting the pin back in. Might be worth using a slightly smaller piece each time. Not massively smaller, just a couple of mm. I found using the same length for each piece made it a little harder to screw back in. 5. Reinstall the pin and check if it's quieter, if it is, undo the pin slightly and give it a blast of spray grease. Should reduce the amount of wear on the heatshrink pieces. This fix lasts a few months usually. It only takes 10 minutes so is worth doing if you're in a rush or have some spare heatshrink. Job Done! Permanent Fix 1 (Recommended)This for me is the best way of doing it and should last for the lifetime of the car. What you need:Oilite repair bush link10mm socket wrenchPliersRag/TissueRubber Mallet/Hammer + Cloth Step 1 is the same as the Ghetto Fix. Simply remove the pin, place something into the bush to stop the door from swinging. 2. Clean the checkstrap and pin using your tissue or rag. No need for alcohol cleaning agent, just touch dry will do. This is quite an important step as oilite bushes are porous and can absorb oil causing them to expand. 3. If you have a checkstrap with a nylon bush, you'll need to remove the remnants. The easiest way is to get a screwdriver and start lifting up from the top hat. Additional force from a round file can really help. Once you've got it all out, clean again using your cloth. At this stage, there's no going back really. If your checkstrap has the new style aluminium bush, simply pop it using a round file. It's tight but shouldn't be too tight. 4. You'll need to press the oilite bush in using something like a set of pliers, or a g-clamp. I found I couldn't exert enough force using a g-clamp but pliers were great. 5. Once in, you'll probably need to lightly tap your checkstrap pin back through using a mallet or cloth covered hammer. The bush is oilite, therefore will weep oil as you use the door more and more. There is absolutely no need to grease/oil it and I would actively discourage you from doing so. You may find the door is quiet, but not as quiet as you expect on the first day, however after a day or two it will become very quiet thanks to the oilite effect. Job Done! Permanent Fix 2This is another way of permanently refurbishing your checkstrap. The material is similar to that used by VW, however it's slightly harder wearing so should last considerably longer. I wrote this tutorial in June of last year. It's currently April 2014 and the door is just as quiet as the day I did it. What you need:Piece of 12mm x 6mm hard Nylon tubing, or if you have an aluminium bush 8mm x 6mm, again, eBay.10mm socket wrenchPliers(Optional) Spray greaseThe unthreaded part of the pin is 5.9945 (according to micrometer). It slides perfectly inside the piece of tubing from fleabay. It's not super tight so you don't have to hammer it or heat it, but at the same time the pin is gripped so there is a solid fit. Step 1 and 2 are the same as the Ghetto Fix. Simply remove the pin, place something into the bush to stop the door from swinging. 3. I suggest cutting a generous piece of tubing, perhaps an inch or so long. You can be more precise if you want but I found it was easier to work with a larger piece and to get the tubing into the bush then cut away the excess from above. I haven't got a photo for this but I'm sure you can work out what I mean 4. Getting the tubing to press was the hardest thing. I just used a set of strong pliers and it worked okay, but you need to put some effort in. I was using 8mm x 6mm tubing and inserting into an aluminium bush. If you had a nylon bush, you need 12mm by 6mm and should remove the entire bush, or press 8mm x 6mm into the worn bush as to crush it. 5. Once you've done this, you're good to go. You know that the pin already fits on the inside of the tubing. Spray the hell out of the whole thing with some grease just so it's nice and slick. Job Done!
  34. 6 points
    i tried the search bar but didnt seem to find anything, is it possible to remap a lupo gti? and is there anywere that can do it and is it really worth getting it done? i had my 1.4 sport mapped and got nearly a 18bhp gain on the rollers at awesome with just a decent air filter. hope you guys can help cheers
  35. 6 points
    Hi all Been reading up on the Lupo's/Arosa's for a while now lurking about on the forum. Going to see an Arosa on Sunday and feeling pretty confident about what to look out for when I do. Apart from the engine! It has a 1.4 8v. What's the engine code for this engine? I assumed it was the 1.4 16v which the Lupo's had to but I was wrong! What's the feeling with these are they strong or will i have to have a good look at it?
  36. 6 points
    Hi. I have tried three different cd/radios, the first two worked, but the second stopped after about 30 minutes. Now nothing works. Fuses are ok. Is there a relay somewhere, as well?
  37. 6 points
    check this out http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181154467003?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3983.
  38. 6 points
    I have a 1.0l mpi lupo and the clutch is knackard !! What are they like to change any advice???
  39. 6 points
    Need some new dampers to go with my new springs...Will the GTI front dampers fit the TDI Please let me know...
  40. 6 points
    One of mine from Edition38 2012
  41. 6 points
    CLASSIFIEDS NOT WORKING ABSOLUTE PRIME EXAMPLE OF A LUPO GTI I BELIEVE THIS TO BE ONE OF THE CLEANEST ONES AROUND COMPLETELY ORIGINAL WITH BATHURST ALLOYS LOW MILEAGE ABSOLUTE BARGAIN CONSIDERING YOU WOULD PAY £2800+ FOR ONE WITH HIGHER MILEAGE AND SHODDY BODYWORK BUT THIS IS MINT! LOCATED IN LEEDS SEEING IF THERE IS ANY INTEREST HERE THEN IT WILL BE GOING ON EBAY FOR BUY IT NOW £2800, RATHER NOT THOUGH AS THE FEES ARE HIGH Mileage 84k Mot April 2013 Tax June 2013 Alloys / tyres in very good condition Belt changed at 74k Brake discs/ pads changed at 81k AM I ASKING TOO MUCH AT £2500? PLEASE COMMENT!
  42. 6 points
    Koop go and stand in the corner for 5 mins, its a mk3
  43. 6 points
  44. 6 points
    Would be sweet if there was a like button for users comments? ... similar to facebook
  45. 5 points
  46. 5 points
    Hi Guys, My 1.4 T reg Lupo just failed its MOT on emmisions, Here are the results, if anyone can point me where to start that would be brilliant. it is also burning oil so thinking possibly head gasket? or could it be the lambda sensor making it burn oil? Fast Idle: CO =< 0.3% 0.70% FAIL HC =< 200 ppm 345 ppm FAIL Lambda 0.97 - 1.03 1.059 FAIL Second Fast Idle again FAILED on the same sort of figures but it PASSED on Natural Idle test. As I say any help appriciated!
  47. 5 points
    got some JOMS coilovers all round on my gti. There not the greatest, just shock and spring on back. My rear isnt even that low but because the shock is so soft its destroying my tyres. Can i buy harder shocks from anywhere? Thanks, Ben.
  48. 5 points
    Hi there just had a trauma with my 1.0l loop the clutch suddenly gave in! Im not sure what has happened but I think it could be the clutch cable that has snapped. Has anyone got any ideas?
  49. 5 points
  50. 5 points
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