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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Those little things are quick/easy/cheap to fix. The main things that will affect price is the interior condition (rips? Stains? Missing clips type thing?), exterior condition (rust anywhere? Dents? Cracks) and mechanical condition (engine, gearbox, suspension, exhaust). Mechanical stuff is generally easy to do... between £400 - £1200?
  2. 1 point
    Pics and location? If it is older than Y plate the higher tax will affect value a bit, price depends on condition, location and faults. Spares or repairs will be around £150 - £400 depending on the variables, who wants it and how desperate you are to shift it. Stick it on here as i could well be interested myself.
  3. 1 point
    No, you need the range rover for living in the country. In white with bling wheels and never get it dirty.
  4. 1 point
    If the wife wants to do it then you can never do it.
  5. 1 point
    Finally got the freshly powder costed rear beam back, so i got it all built back up today. Went and had the alignment done, came out spot on. car drives incredible now! Just waiting for the RARB brackets to turn up then that can go back on.
  6. 1 point
    You are 100% correct in what you're saying - there are a lot of charlatans out there! 'Diesel Pump UK' being the biggest one. His conversions are extremely shoddy, he offers no kind of warranty and doesn't care when his engines blow up due to his own poorly built fuel pumps. That said, his marketing is top notch and he has a lot of work on... Makes me feel sorry for his customers. My conversions are (if i do say so myself) among the tidiest out there, but certainly not the cheapest. I completely remake the loom, use correct merc mounts, all fully welded boost pipes, deep large capacity sump, new props, 4.4 or 4.1 diffs, 6 speed C270 gearbox and fuel pumps built in Finland by the best in the game, all coupled with loads of cooling so you can happily tow 3.5T at speed without overheating issues and with 2 bar of boost from 2000rpm to 6500rpm they fly! 0 to 60 time is sub 9 seconds and 35mpg is possible on a run. They make such useable, retro trucks when built correctly.
  7. 1 point
    You should be able to buy a w460 [part time 4x4]for under £5k, [3 engines were available and 3 body styles, the only one which should breach the £5k figure are the short wheelbase soft tops] they are almost certain to need major metal work repairs to the rear corners and door, but all the panels are available; what's more difficult to fix is a tatty interior. There are a variety of experts who claim to be able to convert these to either 5 cylinder or 6 cylinder turbo diesel spec, not all though are genuine experts. A decade ago the fashion was to fit large V8 to your old w460 and on occasion to the newer w463 [permanent 4x4]. High powered engines make no sense though as the trucks can't corner and are always thirsty however economical you might think they are.
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  9. 1 point
    Been a long time coming but we finally got one, collected it on Friday.
  10. 1 point
    Haha i’ll have it back tomorrow or Monday!
  11. 1 point
    Have you got a picture of your mum?
  12. 1 point
    Hi Sausage Thanks for the feedback. It was posted to see if it would be of intetest to anyone in the club lupo world as i thought it would be nice for it to go to a home that might appreciate it and was giving you first chance, hence asking for someone to get intouch, I can just throw it on to auto trader, once I have got it back from the mot station and had chance to take some photos. Kind Regards
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  15. 1 point
    😆😆 I’m surprised it wasn’t one of the first things asked.
  16. 1 point
    Well isn’t this spiffing!! We are now friends Martin. X
  17. 1 point
    Have you got a picture of your daughter?
  18. 1 point
    I was thinking about doing an EV in either an old polo breadvan or mk1 twingo (looks right for an ev IMO). There was a guy on ebay in the US who went by the id blackdog who had a bunch of NOS ev1 motors. Syncronous things, AC rotary field theory, where you speed up the rotary mag field if you want to up the revs. Kinda like a washing machine motor (but bigger= 18kW continuous), which instead of running at 50Hz, you vary the ac frequency from DC (with current limiting) to about 4kHz for max speed. Apparently, way way more efficient than using DC motors. Thing i love about EVs is that you can over-rate an electric motor by loads for brief periods. So a small 15kW motor can take being run at 150kW for a few seconds. Like having a moped engine that can belt out Bentley power.... just long enough to do silly 0-60 times.
  19. 1 point
    Nothing wrong with it as I'm aware of. Couldn't be happier with it.
  20. 1 point
    RC aircraft, electronics, precision mechanical engineering, Lupos. It's all the same skill set
  21. 1 point
    For swaps: Any lupo headlining for a black/grey headlining from a Lupo GTi. (please note, it cant be one with a sun roof). I dont care if your headlining is dirty or the trim is hanging off, as long as the board behind is in one peace with no bends or holes. My reason for swaps - its getting re-trimmed and I thought it would be nice for someone else to benefit from the nice black trim before it gets destroyed, there's no other catch, I dont want your money! Its the headlining only, no sun visors, no handles. I have tried swapping this since last year and have been let down 4 times! So because of this I will not hold it for you for long. I live in Hull, East Yorkshire, if you would like to swap you will have to come to Hull to do it please. No I will not go to you. Thanks.
  22. 1 point
    This how-to is for anyhone that would like to know the ins and outs of fitting Audi TT Knee Rests into their Lupo. This is how your dash will look like as standard... Pull towards yourself on the "coin holder" at the top to remove this. The surround on the heater controls will now pull off also exposing the torx bolts behind it... Undo the 6 torx bolts pictured (4 on heater control surround and 2 on mounting bracket behind at the top) Remove the heater surround facia frame and pull on the lower buttons to remove these, there is also 2 more torx bolts here that can be removed to open up the entire part of your lower dash. If possible get someone to hold the knee rest in place at your desired location. I positioned the curved part at the top of the rest with the similarly curved part of the underside of the dash, this seems to be a good mounting point for the best position of the rest. With th mount held in place (and the locator spikes removed (pull out)) use a pen or sharp object to mark where the hole for the mounting lug needs to go. With this marked on you can then drill the hole through the plastic on your dash. Mine is positioned as far forward as it can go without jeapordising the structure of the dash and sits inbetween the mounting bracket inside the lower dash. The hole for this needs to be equal to the outer diameter of the mounting lug, you may need to work the drill a bit to open up the hole so the mounting lug sits snug, the more snug the better. Once this was drilled I then placed the rest into this hole and positioned it so that I could drill the second hole for the rear mounting point. A quick mock up showed that the 2 mounting points were in place correctly and ready to be screwed in. I have used stainless caphead bolts for these with nylock nuts, the problem I came across was that I needed a washer small enough so that the nut would not go through it, but big enough so that the bolt would tighten up and it would sit sturdy with the inside of the plastic lower dash. I ended up using 2 washers to do this as I couldnt find the right size in my tool box. So in summary... Place the knee rest into position (get someone to hold it if possible) put your stainless caphead through the mounting point, place the larger washer on first, then the smaller, then the nut, tighten accordingly, repeat for the rear. The mouting point that is closest to the seat on mine hasnt been put in yet as my seats are out of a 5 door and dont slide very easily, but these are still very strong even with only 3 bolts in at one end. End result... Any questions feel free to ask me Gav
  23. 1 point
    Good write up koop, one thing I'd add is that the clips tend to snap when splitting so letting the badge sit in very warm water for 5 minute before helps persuade them to pop without snapping
  24. 1 point
    I have to find this occasionally for folk & the search is a bit of a mare so I thought I'd do a separate how to & hopefully Ray will chuck it in the info section for me like a diamond <3 taken from here http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/88315-swapping-the-front-badge "handy that my badge is red as it makes it easy to see the clip you need to pop... Stick your screwdriver in, you can get a good angle if you feed it through the bonnet catch... ...and push down & out until the clip pops... ...then yank the barsteward out! Bish bash bosh." Also from my build thread, if you're wanting to split the badge to paint it different colours... "Got some frog tape from B&Q (jeebus that's stuff's expensive) to mask off my front badge, then worked out I could separate it instead by prising it apart at one of the clips then carefully working the screwdriver round the edge "
  25. 1 point
    Would be much better without the stickers.

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