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Hi everyone, Just picked up my first Lupo 16v from a local garage for £575, full MOT will 110,000 miles on the clock plus its an openair. Its not without its faults but its solid mechanically, just needs a bit of cosmetic work. Had a Polo before this, made a few plans for that and never really got round to them, hopefully this wont end up like that, but I dont think Ill be doing anything too big until after winter. Anyway heres a quick snap of it I took at the petrol station. Anyway heres the picture. Any suggestions would be much appreciated (i presume lower it would be the first one haha) Cheers

Those prices are pretty darn cheap, I can price up genuine so you can see the difference if you want

Updated: 29th April 2014 So, I figured it was best to make this into one single thread rather than having a few explaining how to fix the same issue.The 'official' way of fixing this is to buy new checkstraps. They are £40 a pair, but why spend more than you really need to. If you're willing to get your hands a bit dirty, here are three ways you can fix it quickly. This thread was inspired by the original checkstrap fix thread found here:http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/78249-cheap-fix-for-noisy-door-check-straps/ Like I always say, this is just a guide. You might need to use a bit of intuition if something isn't quite working as you expected. Hopefully this thread is enough to see you through. Ghetto Fix (Temporary)What you need:Bag of cheap assorted heatshrink. (found on ebay for about £3)Heatgun/Hair dryer/Hob10mm socket wrench(Optional) Cup of water(Optional) Spray grease 1. Remove the pin using the 10mm socket wrench. 2. Cut a piece of heatshrink to the size of the unthreaded part of the pin and place it so it covers it. 3. Heat the pin so that the heatshrink wraps itself tightly around the unthreaded section. 4. I suggest adding a couple more layers although not an exact science and too many will stop you from putting the pin back in. Might be worth using a slightly smaller piece each time. Not massively smaller, just a couple of mm. I found using the same length for each piece made it a little harder to screw back in. 5. Reinstall the pin and check if it's quieter, if it is, undo the pin slightly and give it a blast of spray grease. Should reduce the amount of wear on the heatshrink pieces. This fix lasts a few months usually. It only takes 10 minutes so is worth doing if you're in a rush or have some spare heatshrink. Job Done! Permanent Fix 1 (Recommended)This for me is the best way of doing it and should last for the lifetime of the car. What you need:Oilite repair bush link10mm socket wrenchPliersRag/TissueRubber Mallet/Hammer + Cloth Step 1 is the same as the Ghetto Fix. Simply remove the pin, place something into the bush to stop the door from swinging. 2. Clean the checkstrap and pin using your tissue or rag. No need for alcohol cleaning agent, just touch dry will do. This is quite an important step as oilite bushes are porous and can absorb oil causing them to expand. 3. If you have a checkstrap with a nylon bush, you'll need to remove the remnants. The easiest way is to get a screwdriver and start lifting up from the top hat. Additional force from a round file can really help. Once you've got it all out, clean again using your cloth. At this stage, there's no going back really. If your checkstrap has the new style aluminium bush, simply pop it using a round file. It's tight but shouldn't be too tight. 4. You'll need to press the oilite bush in using something like a set of pliers, or a g-clamp. I found I couldn't exert enough force using a g-clamp but pliers were great. 5. Once in, you'll probably need to lightly tap your checkstrap pin back through using a mallet or cloth covered hammer. The bush is oilite, therefore will weep oil as you use the door more and more. There is absolutely no need to grease/oil it and I would actively discourage you from doing so. You may find the door is quiet, but not as quiet as you expect on the first day, however after a day or two it will become very quiet thanks to the oilite effect. Job Done! Permanent Fix 2This is another way of permanently refurbishing your checkstrap. The material is similar to that used by VW, however it's slightly harder wearing so should last considerably longer. I wrote this tutorial in June of last year. It's currently April 2014 and the door is just as quiet as the day I did it. What you need:Piece of 12mm x 6mm hard Nylon tubing, or if you have an aluminium bush 8mm x 6mm, again, eBay.10mm socket wrenchPliers(Optional) Spray greaseThe unthreaded part of the pin is 5.9945 (according to micrometer). It slides perfectly inside the piece of tubing from fleabay. It's not super tight so you don't have to hammer it or heat it, but at the same time the pin is gripped so there is a solid fit. Step 1 and 2 are the same as the Ghetto Fix. Simply remove the pin, place something into the bush to stop the door from swinging. 3. I suggest cutting a generous piece of tubing, perhaps an inch or so long. You can be more precise if you want but I found it was easier to work with a larger piece and to get the tubing into the bush then cut away the excess from above. I haven't got a photo for this but I'm sure you can work out what I mean 4. Getting the tubing to press was the hardest thing. I just used a set of strong pliers and it worked okay, but you need to put some effort in. I was using 8mm x 6mm tubing and inserting into an aluminium bush. If you had a nylon bush, you need 12mm by 6mm and should remove the entire bush, or press 8mm x 6mm into the worn bush as to crush it. 5. Once you've done this, you're good to go. You know that the pin already fits on the inside of the tubing. Spray the hell out of the whole thing with some grease just so it's nice and slick. Job Done!

whats in that beast ^

When I bought my car it had the usual annoying, clacking door check straps. I took one off to see what was causing the noise. There is a nylon bush (actually two top-hat section bushes, one inside the other) that the pin goes through and it's this that wears allowing the strap to flap about and bang against the pin. The drivers side was worst. I removed the bush, found a bit of nylon pipe that was a tight fit in the strap and pressed in a short piece (the yellow bit in the photo). I heated up the pin and pressed it through to make the hole just the right size, then trimmed off the ends of the pipe flush with the strap. Then I cut up the original bush to leave me with two nylon washers to go either side of the strap. Result - a bit of a faff but no cost and now a perfectly quiet check strap that should last longer than the original. The passenger side wasn't worn as bad so I tried putting a bit of heatshrink around the pin and refitting it. Well, it's not perfect but 99% better and there's no need to remove the strap so it only took a couple of minutes to do. It's held up fine for a few month now and, if it does start to make a noise again, it's an easy job to replace the heatshrink with a fresh bit. I hope this helps someone out - the clicking straps are like Chineses water torture!