Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/24/2013 in all areas

  1. decided to make this thread so everyone can stop asking how to do the conversions. also find out why everyone says polo gti looms are easier. done this conversion three times now so iv got the idea how you do it you will need polo gti engine polo gti looms inside and out polo gti or lupo gti ecu and if you have cable throttle get the gti, sport, pedal box electrical CENTRAL LOCKING easiest way to do central locking is to use your old loom( if it has central locking) strip the loom down starting from the drivers side door connecters seperator the central locking wires from the other wires. do the left side door connector firstly to the fusebox and also to the drivers side wires where they attach. secondly down to the boot of the car where they lead to the boot lock and interior lighting. do the same to the polo gti looms while also taking out the air pump pipes. the boot wires need to be chopped or either the pins need taking out the connector blocks once done put the old looms to the gti ( best to go fusebox first) the polo gti looms may have extra peices going off near to the rear speakers these where the interior light sensor connects and are no longer needed once all fitted, soldered,crimped etc test the central locking using your original central locking control unit. if remote test your fob should still work without reproggramming wrap up the loom securly as you wont need to take that bit apart again. this loom also does your electric windows if you have them. LIGHTING front light pins will need swopping and so do the rears the 3rd brake light pin needs to be swapped over else you will find the 3rd brake light will not work ( obvs) but also the fuse will keep popping the reverse light pin will need to be chopped and made into a double wire to use for both lights as the polo only uses one reverse light. EARTHING/REAR RE-WIRING the looms shape is diffrent to the lupo so your will need to unwrapp the whole of the rear loom to relocate the earths for the rear lighting ,fuel pump etc the roof lining needs to be removed to swop the aerial cable to the other side or can be extended with more aerial cable. ENGINE/GEARBOX extra pieces will be need to do small but important bits of the conversion the speedo sensor will need changing or chopping. fitting the engine is just the same as putting the normal one in unless it is a 1.0 ltr then you need new engine mounts and a 1.4s,sport,gti gearbox the gearbox bolts will need to be change for either gti bolts or you can chopp them to fitt advice you to do the conversion on a abs type lupo as the abs one is more just plugg in and off you go. the non abs will need you to rip the bulb out of the clocks and hide the wiring your chopp it. throttle bodie has more air pipe hole in that will need either unscrewing and blocking or tubed to one another. if you do not have air con take the pump off and the gti steering pump with it and replace with the 1.4 pump the belt you need is 11.4 s belt. as for the cooling fan your need the relay off the gti that goes in the engine bay they are also on lupo gti's connect this all up and get a garage to test it with daignostic tool everything else is the same as the 1.4 so if you know how to take it now you know how to put it back in! HEATING the gti heaters use electric motors and a electronic computer to adjust the heating and location of the blowing air you can fit these in or you can simple chop the live which is the black and red large wire and solder it, female connect it to the orginal heater connector with the earth done the same aswell. everything else is a plug and play game done this so people that want to do the conversion have an idea what there getting into!
    2 points
  2. Any how-to's? Been fiddling with it for the past hour, and i cant get my elsawin to install. Help appreciated
    1 point
  3. -EDIT- I have just noticed Flickr has decided to fail with my pictures, so here is my Flickr photostream, all pictures are on there. -EDIT- So im planning on starting this install thread and maintaining it.. but im a bit of a lazy sod so i apologise if if it goes to pot I've ripped out my old install which was done on a bit of a budget, it consisted of 2 10" Fli subs taken out of a FliTrap 1600W and the loaded 500 amp to go with it as well as 2 Audiobahn 12" ran off an Inphase 4ch amp, i cant really remember all of the details because i put it in quite a while ago. Here it is: Here is the new stuff thats going in.. eventually: Consists of (pictured): Sundown SAZ-1500D amp Focal PS-165 Component speakers Stinger 14AWG Speaker wire 5L Fiberglass kit 5L Contact adhesive Paint + lacquer kit Non-Pictured: KnuKonceptz Kord Kable 12 Gauge Speaker Wire Alpine MRX-F35 Phonocar 4/927 Rain Stop KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge amp installation kit 2x Sundown SA-12 Already fitted: Alpine CDE-135BT Head unit XS Power D1200 AGM Battery 'The Big 3' Upgrade with black KnuKonceptz 0AWG Valeo 108a Passat alternator - http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/94682-180a-alternator-fitted/ KnuKonceptz 0AWG cable KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable 2 Channel 5M Twisted Pair RCA Cable I've probably missed some stuff out but ill update when i remember.
    1 point
  4. Flashed me I flashed back, black lupo
    1 point
  5. Ray, been there, done that... I'd be expecting it to be perfect for that price and I'm betting it isn't
    1 point
  6. This is club lupo not fake Audi
    1 point
  7. Afternoon guys, just thought id share my lastest video with you all. In this video I show the basics to using a clay bar; perfect for if you have used one before or have one but not used it yet! As always comments and questions are welcome. A full writen step by step can be found in the in the video disciption Joe
    1 point
  8. Right guys, just thought i'd let you know i have fitted a 180A Valeo alternator from a passat. I would say it was relatively easy as i have no power steering A/C etc. so have the small bracket, was a straight fit apart from the tensioner bracket at the bottom which had to be ground to re-tension the new alternator. I ground out the bolt hole so it was forked which meant i could adjust the new alternator with an additional bolt. Sorry there are no pictures as it completely skipped my mind to do a guide, although if requested i could probably get some of the finished product, then all the waffle i've just wrote would probably make a bit more sense 110 more amps to play with. Juicy.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.