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  1. 3 likes
    Having done a few cambelt changes on the SDI, I thought I'd post a how to. I've had to repair other people's mistakes as it is not obvious like on other Vdubs. There are a few sequences you MUST follow, as some parts overlap or get in the way. If you do it in the wrong sequence you can break something. Take your time. The work is fairly straight forward, but some bits are fiddly, such as the hex bolts on the crank and water pump pulleys. Don't use allen keys- use a proper hex driver attachment to fit your socket set ratchet spanner. Tools needed: trolley jack 1/2" metric socket set (to 19mm) metric spanner set (to 19mm) stubby screwdriver 8mm flat blade 1/2" drive hex key driver set (to 10mm) a medium length 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver 3mm allen keys or nails or steel pins molegrips for the pipe clamps compact mirror paint spray grease light oil can rag to clean hands and messy bits Start here: Loosen RHS front wheel bolts. Jack up front of car, both sides. Put on axle stands or blocks, wood etc. Both front wheels off the ground. Remove plastic sump tray (two 10mm bolts and three star clips)- rotate star clips counter clockwise until they come off their threads if they will be reused. Remove RHS front wheel. Open bonnet. Remove engine dressing cover (take care with the clips). If the two studs come away, they will need to be detached and thread locked back onto their pedestals later. Dismantling: Unclip air temp sensor Remove air duct Remove ribbed belt -14mm spanner- loosen tensioner bar around back of diesel pump Remove top cam belt cover (don't forget small plastic screw and pipe clip) Put trolley jack under rhs of engine sump Remove engine mount top bracket 3 + 1 bolts -jack up engine to take the strain Loosen engine mount side support 4 bolts- leave in place for the minute Remove engine mount 3 bolts Manoeuvre engine mount side support up and out (leaving bolts loose in it)- jack up engine or lower as needed Remove water pump pulley - no option - this must be done (3 bolts) Remove the crankshaft ribbed belt pulley (4 bolts) Remove the lower cam belt cover (3 bolts- yes 3) Turn engine clockwise using socket on crank until all the TDC marks line up Put a paint mark on all of the cambelt pulleys and behind them in easy to see positions Loosen cam belt tensioner nut to allow cam belt to go slack Remove the mini cambelt idler bearing pulley next to the diesel pump Ease the cambelt off the pulleys Fully remove the cam belt tensioner (jack up the engine a bit) This is the (easy) point to remove the water pump if you are going to replace it Check condition of pulleys and crank seal, and clean up any gunge- if any. This is the easy point to check/change ribbed belt tensioner pulley bearing Reassembly: (raise or lower engine as needed throughout the procedure) Clean then lightly oil every nut and bolt before reassembly Lube (spray grease) intermediate slider and spring inside tensioner (they wear out quicker otherwise) Loosely hang new cam belt on tensioner pulley and slide it back onto the stud (no nut just yet) Locate tensioner anti rotate peg into slot (important) Ease the cam belt onto the pulleys, starting at the crank first, just hanging on the pulley edges Once the cam belt is located in the right timing teeth slide it fully onto each pulley Check the paint marks are still right and the pulleys haven't moved Tighten the tensioner nut up to finger tight (don't forget the washer) Recheck the anti rotate peg is correctly located Refit the (new) small idler bearing pulley (to the right torque- not too tight!) Using some makeshift tools tension the cam belt just enough to take out any slack, then tighten the tensioner nut just enough to stop it loosening. Turn the crank by hand a few times to get the new belt to settle in the pulley teeth and allow it to find its running line. Using a small mirror, check the alignment of the tensioner marks. Adjust tensioner so that the marks line up Turn the crank again a few times Check and adjust the tensioner again. keep doing it until the tensioner mark stays lined up. Then the tension is perfect. Note the tension alignment moves with temperature if checking a hot engine (the belt gets tighter). Tighten tensioner nut to the right torque (not too tight!) Refit (in this order): Engine mount side support (the bolts have to be in place before trying to fit it) Lower cam belt cover Water pump pulley Crankshaft ribbed belt pulley Remaining top engine mount parts in reverse order as removed -don't overtighten! Top cam belt cover Ribbed belt Air duct Temp sensor (don't forget to plug it in or you'll get a check engine light!) Final check- make sure you can turn the engine over at the crank before starting Refit the other bits in reverse order as removed The timing alignment can be double checked with all wheels on the ground (upper cam belt cover off)- Put the car in 5th gear, roll forwards inch by inch till the timing marks all line up: Flywheel check hole (--o mark), cam pulley (dot) and injection pump (holes line up) pics for reference follow: Here's a link for the very similar polo SDI engine, with some useful diagrams how to change the cam belt. http://replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-belt-on-vw-polo-6n-1-7-sdi/ Tighten bolts and nuts to the following settings. Notice that they are not that tight, as many threads are cut into aluminium which strips easily. Add a drop of oil to each thread before assembly. Not too tight... Upper engine mount 3+1 bolts: 30lbft Engine mount side plate 4 bolts: 30lbft Cam belt tensioner nut: 15lbft Water pump pulley 3 hex bolts: 20lbft Crank pulley 4 hex bolts: 25lbft Lower cam belt cover 3 bolts: 10lbft Plastic bolt upper cam belt cover: a bit tighter than finger tight. Idler pulley bolt: 20 lbft. I recommend wearing gloves, as knuckles will get damaged during work. There is hardly any space between the body and the engine, so you'll need to raise or lower the engine all the time to get things to fit. Start to finish takes a relaxed 3h. You can do it in about 45 minutes with practice!
  2. 2 likes
    The cover on the back of the lamp is held on with a metal clip, unclip that and it will pull away, but not completely as the wiring loom goes through the cover. The bulb is an H3, has a negative wire that comes off the back of the bulb that connects to the negative terminal inside the lamp. The bulb is held in with a spring clip and shouldn't be too hard to remove. As the car owner's bible, the mighty Lord of Haynes says, refitting is the opposite of removal.
  3. 1 like
    centre caps show available via dealer still
  4. 1 like
    4500 is a flipping steal tbh. gutted it's going to a youth.
  5. 1 like
    then he needs to buy the original wheels. 195/45 like everyone else?
  6. 1 like
    I'd punt it at 5k if it had standard wheels.
  7. 1 like
    such an awkward place, does anyone else change it?
  8. 1 like
    i dunno if he will go for that.
  9. 1 like
    sad times. it was in a place called tingle.
  10. 1 like
    a. The g40 is cooler than a gte. b. Pics of daughter. c. Just offer a swap somewhere. d. Wind them up and classify them as suspension.
  11. 1 like
    Morning, Chris, and welcome.
  12. 1 like
    Perfect - will PM you in a bit!
  13. 1 like
    different size. try a polo 6n2
  14. 1 like
    mot ran out June 10th. if my Tt sells this weekend i will go look at this.
  15. 1 like
    I did my seat backs with the square carpet tiles you can get, they are 50cmx50cm the seat back is 50cm wide x 51cm high so just have the 1cm space at the bottom, you can't tell when there on, no cutting needed just straight on, don't use carpet glue they came off in the hot weather, so i used gorilla glue , they wont come off, tiles only 3 quid each , i got anthracite tiles which are a excellent match for the boot carpet.
  16. 1 like
    Hi All, Many thanks for the brilliant feedback. Particularly to The Penguin for his insightful points! Typo on my part, I have a VI Golf GTD, not a Mk.4 (don't think there was one my Mk.4, my error). I understand the question why? When I was a kid we had brilliant simple cars, but they rotted through in five years. The first car I owned with galvanised metal and wax injection was a 1981 Mk.1 Golf GTI. (I have fond memories of that car). Now cars were still simple, but they lasted!... Come to my Golf Mk. 6 GTD and trust me it is brilliant, and I've no intention to sell it. However this car had a 20% manufacture saving over the Mk.5, and the amount of electronics has gone through the roof! Electrical contacts corrode, sensors fail, lights take in condensation. The basic car is brilliantly made, and even though it is low milage, and fully serviced, the cost of ownership is rising through replacement electrical parts. £500+ on this service alone for these cheap plastic ancillaries. That is the reason for wanting a simpler car, that does what it says on the tin... "Special" because they bothered to use lighter steal in the body, and use aluminium panels to cut kerb weight. Disc brakes all around, and funky dials. You feel the road through the steering rather than fly by wire, and a great honest engine noise rather than an artificial noise maker. I think the well made cars of the mid eighties to the mid noughties will rise in price because they last, and can be cost effectively maintained without eye watering computer difficulties... And special, means special, not just a different chip in the CPU, flashy badges and a change of dash light colour... I hope that makes sense, and hope I have not trodden on too many toes!? Good news is, following your advice I have bought a pristine black 2005 Lupo GTI this morning, and can't wait to get it on the drive!
  17. 1 like
    I tend to look for the simple/obvious first before presuming its a worst case scenario. Unlike my dad, its ALWAYS something expensive when his car goes wrong, and 99% of the time he's wrong! LOL!
  18. 1 like
    Sorted all back to working order....it was the fuse 👌. Thanks lupogtiboy...not sure why I never thought of the fuse tbh hahaha.
  19. 1 like
    indicators are white/black on one side and green/black on the other with an earth thrown in either side.
  20. 1 like
    Got my 2.5 stainless exhaust built ! Getting ready for 1.8T!
  21. 1 like
    It's actually what you advised me to use in an earlier post.
  22. 1 like
    Glad you corrected that, Joey. I was confused for a second as the picture didn't show what was for sale.
  23. 1 like
    My Lupo Tdi is on 245k now and still drives fine. It's a bag of sh*t looks wise but its serviced on time and runs spot on.
  24. 1 like
    Can confirm this is true. I received mine this morning after waiting 7 months for a pair. Also got a notification from eBay about an item I'd been watching - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-VW-VW-Lupo-GTI-Traggelenke-Rechts-Links-6ES-1LX-6E0407366-6E0407365-NEU/172294392412?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Previously this was for the side I didn't need, its been updated for both so they're definitely out there now.
  25. 1 like
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  27. 1 like
    Also pictures would be really appreciated.
  28. 1 like
    All fixed for a whopping £1.50 for a new Speedo Pinion, glad it wasn't the gear on the inside of the box
  29. 1 like
    Ah the looks of proper lowering suspension, hats-off for the KWs. You need red door cards, yes?
  30. 1 like
    many thanks, excellent work